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Posted

This is booked for in a couple a weeks time.

 

House is very efficient but not built to Passive Haus standards. We do have ICF, warm roof and have foamed up any gaps whilst the build progressed.

 

Is there anything else that needs to be done/temporarily sealed to ensure a good result?

Posted

Make sure all your windows and doors are properly adjusted (assuming they're adjustable). That can make a difference.

 

If you have any incoming ducts for water, electricity, etc, that are open to the outside world, make sure they're sealed at the house end before the test. 

  • Like 1
Posted

If you have mvhr, switch it off and externally tape up the inlet and outlet vents.

 

Seal any cat flap, air inlet for stove (if not room sealed) etc.

 

If no mvhr individually seal each extractor fan.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
12 minutes ago, Happy Valley said:

All done now and came in a 3.16 which I was told was good.

Better than regulations, and almost good enough to get an advantage from MVHR.

Do you know where the major leaks were?  Can then be rectified?

Posted
2 hours ago, SteamyTea said:

Better than regulations, and almost good enough to get an advantage from MVHR.

Do you know where the major leaks were?  Can then be rectified?

 

Wasn't around when he left unfortunately - we have two large double glazed sliders at 3.7m and 4.9m whilst all other windows are triple glazed so would hazard a guess this is where the majority comes from. We knew it would be a factor but it is worth it for the view that we have.

Posted

Double v triple glazing will make no difference to air tightness.  Just how well sealed they are.  You could still get brilliant airtightness with single glazing.  Cold and condensation would be an issue though!

Posted (edited)

It’s better than regs but it’s still not great if you have MVHR. It’s got nothing to do with the glazing it’s more the fitting. Was this final airtight test or the early one so you can go round and fix the problems? 
 

 

Edited by Kelvin

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