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Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework


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Can you insulate between the cold in and the feed out?  You could separate them a bit more and put more insulation between them - takes time though......

 

The feed out is only going to be in use during shower time, I wouldnt bother to put more insulation behind it, just turn the temp up a bit more!

 

Coming on.... tiles chosen yet?

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8 minutes ago, CC45 said:

Can you insulate between the cold in and the feed out?  You could separate them a bit more and put more insulation between them - takes time though......

 

The feed out is only going to be in use during shower time, I wouldnt bother to put more insulation behind it, just turn the temp up a bit more!

 

Coming on.... tiles chosen yet?

 

Tiles BOUGHT! Sitting in their boxes gathering dust...

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Packing this corner out with EPS /PIR is driving me nuts! By the time I put the bare minimum of 25mm insulation behind the pockets there'll just be a load of awkward rectangular holes to fill up. They're also different depths.

 

20180427_200543

 

20180427_200558

 

So...I've already thought Sod it and gone mad with the foam gun in the corner. I was thinking then just by a box of 12 gun foam from Toolstation for £50.

 

Poor man's Icynene?

 

A sheet of 25mm pir from Wickes is £33.

 

I could stick some tin foil to the wall with spray adhesive before the foam.

 

Thoughts?

 

Cheers 

 

 

 

 

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Thick wall pipe insulation on the 15mm pipes will fill up a bit more of the void...

 

20180427_210250

 

Still not sure whether it's worth spraying the rest of that uneven wall with contact adhesive and applying foil before the gun foam?

Edited by Onoff
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In the unlikely event of a leak on the bent copper, the shower valve or even the straight copper I'm thinking maybe I should pressure test this pipework before encasing it all in insulation/spray foam?

 

Bloody nightmare as to get the "quad cranked" pipe in after insulating the wall is impossible. 

 

20180421_180626

 

20180421_123630

 

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On 23/04/2018 at 09:47, Onoff said:

 

Sketched out a bit of a plan of what I've got / propose:

 

2018-04-23_09-22-29

 

The upstairs ensuite grey soil runs diagonally across the eaves. A pita for access, storage etc. All push fit so I thought redo with a 90deg bend. Keeps everything parallel / square. Was even thinking to make it a branch, capped for now so I can add into it if I ever put wcs off the kid's rooms (though that would ideally mean converting the roof eaves to gable ends). 

 

I know I could put the basin & shower wastes into the soil there but I'd rather avoid that as it all runs into a cess pit prone to backing up. Planning to take the ensuite basin & shower waste vertically up the page then horizontally left and down the wall to tie up with the 2" bath waste from the new bathroom. 

 

Getting hot and cold feed to the new shower valve might be fun. Hoping to pass those pipes under the squared off soil run and tap off where the upstairs ensuite shower is fed from.

 

You need a bend and then the branch, or the branch then the bend. Don't use the branch to make a 90o turn in the run as it's a stalling point and a big no-no. 

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3 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

 

You need a bend and then the branch, or the branch then the bend. Don't use the branch to make a 90o turn in the run as it's a stalling point and a big no-no. 

 

Cheers. 

 

So I could ditch the branch for a 90deg bend laid on it's side and that would be OK?

 

Why is a branch such a stalling point, does "stuff" get thrown into the unused branch and compacted? Or is it not enough of a sweep? If that's the case a normal 90 is no good either!

 

So for clarification the 112.5 branch in it's side could cause a "log jam"? It's approx 1.5m from the aav stack.

 

2018-04-28_08-01-43

 

 

 

Edited by Onoff
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On 14/04/2018 at 14:39, PeterW said:

Cheap handsaw does it for me. 

 

Or a gumtree circ saw that is bought for the job and binned as the bearings will be munched by the end of it ..!!

 

The Makro circular saw bought years ago and used once then abandoned seems to cut nice. Must remember to turn the board over though as it's lifting the fibres from the good face this way!

 

20180429_123406

 

For trimming the strips to length I'm going to fit this diamond blade to the Evolution chop saw:

 

20180429_123808

 

Kicking myself actually as Screwfix had a Rage 3 without blade for £56 +VAT the other day on the trade counter! :( I could have one for wood and one for tiles going!

 

Edited by Onoff
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Well this cut Aqua Panel is hairier than a plumber's bum... :)

 

Nothing a quick haircut won't sort though.

 

Thought I'd do the easy one first. Have tried to ensure edges overlap the best way possible in case water does get through:

 

20180429_145033

 

The bottom "shelf" bit will overhang the panel underneath:

 

20180429_145051

 

The soffit section with have the wall piece come down over it:

 

2018-04-29_03-33-45

 

The sides:

 

20180429_145133

 

The back panel will get secured to the sides with a continuous batten:

 

20180429_145205

 

All loose at the mo. Not sure whether to Sikaflex all the panel to panel joints when I screw it in place?

Edited by Onoff
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6 hours ago, Onoff said:

Well this cut Aqua Panel is hairier than a plumber's bum... :)

I demand to know who you've been talking to !

 

The panel looks good, but be honest, how long did you waste thinking about getting the word AQUAPANEL to go around that corner intact? Be honest.....

Bond the life out of everything and then tank it. It'll be bombproof then. Get the goop of choice into the joints / corners etc prior to the next panel going in so you've got goop IN the joint as well as over it. 

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18 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

The panel looks good, but be honest, how long did you waste thinking about getting the word AQUAPANEL to go around that corner intact? Be honest.....

Bond the life out of everything and then tank it. It'll be bombproof then. Get the goop of choice into the joints / corners etc prior to the next panel going in so you've got goop IN the joint as well as over it. 

 

Seems a pity to cover the lettering up really! :)

 

Goop of choice would be Sika EBT but it's bloody expensive even on the Bay. Was looking at the £1 a tube stuff in T'station the other day. 

 

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p51064

 

Reading the small print though and you need to prime with PVA etc.

 

How out of date can Sikaflex be?

 

https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sika-Sikaflex-EBT-WHITE-Box-of-12-x-300ml-Tubes-Complete-Box/162941783342?

Edited by Onoff
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Just use the TS £1 stuff. It’s to hold it in place while you screw it on, the tanking and the tiles do the rest. 

 

TBH if you’ve got water back to the joint it’s fecked anyway so you could use Marmite and it would be as much use ....

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17 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Its dry as chalk so yes to priming. Mix up some flexible primer or PVA watered down to size it and then allow to dry before assembling. 

 

This is the data sheet for the £1 one:

 

Instant Nails rev 2.pdf

 

I can prime the edges easy enough for assembling the pockets.

 

Will I need to prime all the Aqua Panel before tiling or will the tanking to that?

 

 

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8 hours ago, PeterW said:

Just use the TS £1 stuff. It’s to hold it in place while you screw it on, the tanking and the tiles do the rest. 

 

TBH if you’ve got water back to the joint it’s fecked anyway so you could use Marmite and it would be as much use ....

 

Tbh on the basis the Aqua Panel is waterproof then sealing the joints is an attempt to "tank" the pocket, pre tanking.

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