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Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework


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5 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

Deffo need sharp cutters ;)

Bought a £16 Rothenberger shear type pipe cutter. Harder work tbh than the slightly dulled (blue) Screwfix own brand one I've already got! 

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I'll openly admit I've not had much experience of using this push fit stuff, especially the pipe. Trying to make it all look neat. The 3 valves will be behind a removable tile:

 

SAM_3359

 

SAM_3360

 

Next to drill the stud wall to take the pipes to the sink and bath!

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12 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Just a tip, use copper pipe as the links etc so you avoid flexible pipe and inserts wherever possible ;)  Only use the pushfit pipe when you have to. 

 

 

 

Ta, how many demounting operations will these fittings stand? I've got the proper tool btw.

 

Should I maybe then have used compression fitting valves instead of push fit? Got a bit carried away!

 

Edited by Onoff
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I know, it's so frustrating when you're a beginner.  That said, despite doing very little of it, I found plumbing far more interesting than just about anything else on the build.  I fully expected to enjoy to electrical side of things but found it a very dry topic (not like plumbing, which was a wet topic B|)

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24 minutes ago, jack said:

I know, it's so frustrating when you're a beginner.  That said, despite doing very little of it, I found plumbing far more interesting than just about anything else on the build.  I fully expected to enjoy to electrical side of things but found it a very dry topic (not like plumbing, which was a wet topic B|)

Driving me nuts tbh. I guess it's an experience thing but I'm off to find a couple on Neurofen in a minute!

 

Trying to think ahead, minimising joints where inaccessible etc. It's; unwrap the sink, unwrap the pedestal, loosley position to gauge everything. That done put the sink and pedestal back in their boxes. Then realise I'm not sure if the planned removable tile will clash with the pedestal. At the same time thinking maybe the tile above will be better but will that clash with the sink? So, mark the tile positions on the studs; unwrap the sink etc again.

 

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Then the waste, do I lengthen the waste or shorten the tails? 

 

20160810_125721.jpg

 

Every step something new. Dry fitting and taking apart all the time is a pita!

 

Still I want it to look good in the end and be something to be proud of. (Ditched the push fit valves btw and going soldered copper and bends where I can). I'm sure I'll look back and laugh.....

 

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That's what I normally do. Can't find a pic though :(  

Ok, a suggestion....Can you get into the attic above where the copper pipe work goes up into? If so can you put the isolation a up there? Secondly, is that a full bore ballofix on the CWS fed supply? 

For the exercise of finishing the bathroom, could you not fit these isolations up high and tile so far, then when all is up and running, drain down, cut them out and reinstate the supply without them thus negating the access panel? The isolations for the basin can go under it eg have the 15mm copper coming out horizontally as you say, then put ballofixes on immediately. Then fit these type of flexis which have female ends which can go directly onto the ballofix valve and pig tail the flexis so you can't see them. 

In my house I ran the pipe work in the floor and brought them up inside the footprint of the pedestal and zip-tied the flex to the waste so they're gently pulled tight and out of sight. That left the walls clear for tiling with no penetrations. 

My opinion is that you should ditch the wall access panel and relocate those isolations above. If / when you change to an UVC, it'll be quicker to turn off the mains water supply and drain down the hot and colds than it took me to write this ;)

 

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Loft is a blank canvas pretty much in the hipped roof end above the new bathroom ceiling. You can see the x3 15mm pipes coming up within the bundle of Cat-5:

 

SAM_3402

 

SAM_3401

 

Still a lot of tidying to do up there with respect to existing "plumbing" (and wiring). Have to consider it carefully as we're toying with changing the roof to gable ends. The pipe with the x2 gate valves is the cold feed from the 25 gallon cws tank above the dormer. It comes down the dormer wall and goes left to feed the upstairs wc and upstairs bathroom basin, I capped it off with the push fit where it used to feed to downstairs bathroom I'm currently doing.

 

The hot feed from the cylinder is the low down, horizontal one from the (red) ball valve at the mo that just feeds the upstairs basin sink.

 

SAM_3403

 

EDIT: All the ballofix valves are good quality, full bore ones,

Edited by Onoff
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Is there an issue with having the hot feed 15mm copper to the bathroom basin physically touching the cold (mains) feed? It theoretically shouldn't according to the CAD but with my bending etc. Thinking noise potential and condensation. Option to wrap in Denso where they pass thru the dwarf stud wall or sleeve with something. Cheers,

 

SAM_3476.JPG

 

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SAM_3478.JPG

 

Actually I will have to have a soldered joint somewhere, I've got to tee off of that hot feed for the bath.....

Edited by Onoff
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Cold bath feed bent, cranked and in. Tbh wish I'd made it a bit nearer over to the multi-tool!

 

I'll go from here to a bit of that Hep2O PB to the bath filler /taps. Might put an access panel on the end of the bath to get to these connections. Next, the last one, the bath hot to figure off of the sink feed. Will re-position the clips too here and there:

 

SAM_3481.JPG

 

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EDIT: Debating re-doing the hot feed to the sink so I can more neatly incorporate a tee off for the bath. And again might re-do the cold to the bath so it's further over to the right. 

 

I feel like I'm getting somewhere though!

Edited by Onoff
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