Zoot wood balcony job.

[Simplysimon]

2 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

kick board-?

along the bottom of the balusters to stop anything falling. if balusters are 95mm apart then no need for kickboard. you will need some method to stop bottom of balusters moving though

[Onoff]

6 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Hi Onoff, fab of you.. in fact I've got 3 spare: so if the btm of posts ( notched) is fixed to frame with 2 screws, then 1 of your tubes say 2ft above/ a super solid fix to wall.. might mean a vg solid 'back' upright support post? 
 

Thanks, zh
 

 

 

The most solid fix would be near the top of the handrail I think?

 

So do you need more tubes or not? 

 

I've also some 50mm dia stainless tube with a 6mm thick wall here but not much. Might look better? 

[Onoff]

3 minutes ago, Simplysimon said:

along the bottom of the balusters to stop anything falling. if balusters are 95mm apart then no need for kickboard. you will need some method to stop bottom of balusters moving though

 

What if he kicks his pint glass off onto the head of a small child below? 😂

[Simplysimon]

1 minute ago, Onoff said:

 

What if he kicks his pint glass off onto the head of a small child below? 😂

lobbing it over the 1100mm handrail? child with small head should not have been below

[Onoff]

4 minutes ago, Simplysimon said:

lobbing it over the 1100mm handrail? child with small head should not have been below

 

No, through the 95mm gap! Or his beer bottle etc.

 

So a child with a slightly larger head is acceptable, do you have a figure in mind? 

[Simplysimon]

24 minutes ago, Onoff said:

do you have a figure in mind? 

anything over 500mm?

[Onoff]

21 minutes ago, Simplysimon said:

anything over 500mm?

 

I've heard that's why kids fall over a lot, because their heads are disproportionate to their bodies. 

[zoothorn]

13 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

I've heard that's why kids fall over a lot, because their heads are disproportionate to their bodies. 

Haha. Bloomin kids..

 

Onoff I think I'm ok, & my sketch shows the plan.. so I'd surely have thought, with a strong btm fixing to the frame ( say 2x bigass turbo screws in) that just one upper resin 12mm bolt fixing (near the top) should be ok? I'm thinking if I have another lower down too.. then getting the damn thing plumb, with three fixings to juggle, becomes alot more tricky, for me/ with this wavy render.

 

Separate Q: my fisher resin VL 300T.. I've half the tube left, with last nozzle left on, obviously greyed & solidified, but only half the nozzle. If I get a spare new nozzle & swap on.. is this tube useable?

 

Thanks, zh

Edited September 7, 2022 by zoothorn

[PeterW]

1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

Separate Q: my fisher resin VL 300T.. I've half the tube left, with last nozzle left on, obviously greyed & solidified, but only half the nozzle. If I get a spare new nozzle & swap on.. is this tube useable?

Did you keep the  cap off the tube ..? Remove the old mixer tube and then cap the tube and you can keep it for a while  

[zoothorn]

21 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Did you keep the  cap off the tube ..? Remove the old mixer tube and then cap the tube and you can keep it for a while  

No I left the old nozzle on- actually the fischer chap said to do this way, between using the two nozzles.

 

So just the time perhaps elapsed since using first half of tube, what 2 weeks ago now?

[Onoff]

23 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

No I left the old nozzle on- actually the fischer chap said to do this way, between using the two nozzles.

 

So just the time perhaps elapsed since using first half of tube, what 2 weeks ago now?

 

Should be ok though you might need a pair of moles or pump pliers to get the nozzle off.

 

 

[zoothorn]

Chaps, what timber for the handrail would you suggest? I've looked at options, & can only think another deck board. (Upside down = more slatted surface).

 

Doesn't sit right to me as a choice. Or, only other thing I can see is a 3-3/4" x 1-1/4" rough sawn fence topper, like a horse field fence. Not very handsy-onny tactile.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[zoothorn]

Would 4x2 be too hefty weight for the handrail?

 

 

[PeterW]

2 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Would 4x2 be too hefty weight for the handrail?

 

 

get the router to it ..? Or just buy handrail as you can get it tanalised..?

https://www.jewson.co.uk/p/richard-burbidge-large-traditional-handrail-2400-x-68-x-68mm-BURLD265

 

[zoothorn]

10 minutes ago, PeterW said:

get the router to it ..? Or just buy handrail as you can get it tanalised..?

https://www.jewson.co.uk/p/richard-burbidge-large-traditional-handrail-2400-x-68-x-68mm-BURLD265

 

Hi Peter, this would look best.. but too narrow (& with it's not ideal shaped underside) to sit onto my 4x4" post tops. 
 

I'm going cheap option, tannalised, but don't think there is anything around 1 or 1-1/2" height, & around 4-5" width too.. apart from to use a deck board, is there?

 

Again I need spindles too.. but only see 1-1/2" square tannalised, or 1x 1-1/2". Not exactly ideal spindles theses.

 

Thanks, zoot 

[Onoff]

Get some 5x2 and chamfer the top like a cap stone? 

 

Route or groove the underside for the handrail standards to sit in. 

[joe90]

I recently built my brothers decking and handrail and spindles like @PeterW says above is the best/easiest way, the handrail comes with spacers as well, just modify the corner posts to sit the rail on, my brothers posts were also 4x4 👍

[TonyT]

6x2, with chamfer on the tops.

[zoothorn]

18 hours ago, joe90 said:

I recently built my brothers decking and handrail and spindles like @PeterW says above is the best/easiest way, the handrail comes with spacers as well, just modify the corner posts to sit the rail on, my brothers posts were also 4x4 👍

Hi J, actually you suggested 4x4 posts a bit chunky? so then I had 3x3 in mind didn't I. Sorry I forgot my plan was 3x3 before my reply above.

 

So my handrail support posts 3x3. Whether that makes a difference to suggestions I'm not sure. 
 

@TonyT I think 6x2 then a bit too chunky, but if you suggested this, & not too heavy, then I know I could go 4x2 as an option.

Spindles.. any ideas? or are my 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 tannalised things I've found ok? But chunky mind. But Prolly cheapest. As might be a deck board 5x1 for handrail tbh (or 4x2 even cheaper).

 

Thanks, zoot 

 

[TonyT]

Your posts are 4x4, so you want something to cover the end grain, and  have a bit of reveal so 6x2 is off the shelf giving 1” either side of the post.

 

 

[zoothorn]

6 hours ago, TonyT said:

Your posts are 4x4, so you want something to cover the end grain, and  have a bit of reveal so 6x2 is off the shelf giving 1” either side of the post.

 

 

Hi TT,

 

I got it wrong.. I'm gonna be using 3x3 ( I forgot joe90 thought 4x4 a bit chunky) as an afterthought.
 

I think I'm narrowed to a deck board as choice then, being 5 wide. Not bad if I upside-down it: it's got many more smaller ridges than the top's 10x or so. 

 

What would you suggest I attatch the notched thin bit of these posts, to the side of the frame with? Turbo jobs, or a bit unsightly-?

 

Thanks

[Onoff]

The flat deck board will fill up with sh!t, water will lie in/on it and it'll go green. It needs a chamfer for water to run off. If using 3" posts I'd use 5x2, so 1" overhang. Me being me I'd chamfer the top. Tbh buy from a wood yard and they'd do for a couple of quid if you can't. I'd sit them on the 3x3 posts, draw around them underneath and route a 3/8" or so deep pocket. Thus the handrail locks onto the upright. Secret screw from above using some stainless screws. 

[joe90]

Just visiting my brother and thought I would show @zoot some photos of the posts/rail etc. ( still not finished the post tops yet).

[TonyT]

5x2 for me then.

 

use a https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-plug-cutter-countersink-set-4-pieces/6418V?kpid=6418V&ds_kid=92700055262507123&ds_rl=1244066&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlLSdqYCV-gIVSrDtCh2BBA07EAQYASABEgIBU_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

so drill a hole, screw down as normal, make a plug, glue plug in hole, chisel/sand flat.

 

 

[zoothorn]

28 minutes ago, TonyT said:

5x2 for me then.

 

use a https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-plug-cutter-countersink-set-4-pieces/6418V?kpid=6418V&ds_kid=92700055262507123&ds_rl=1244066&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlLSdqYCV-gIVSrDtCh2BBA07EAQYASABEgIBU_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

so drill a hole, screw down as normal, make a plug, glue plug in hole, chisel/sand flat.

 

 

l get the idea of the plug cutters etc. Good idea. Actually I have both these cutter & countersink whatnots too.

 

@joe90 useful pics thanks, & would look best. I was looking at these in the yard today, with the spindles made to fit the recess too. Thing is though.. spindles were 900mm, the handrail ontop like your pic  say 80mm, means I'm 120mm short for building regs.

 

This is the reason  for having to think otherwise, IE I need spindles 1020mm for this handrail, plus in between bits for the deck to fix them too. Its alot more complicated. And costly.

 

I think its gonna have to be 4x2 ( fix onto 3x3, should be ok) & chamfer the edges. I think @Onoff right that a deck board will warp @only 1" height.

 

Thanks, zoot