Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
12 minutes ago, Pocster said:

I had exactly this issue !

it was a pita and I brought the entire fitting forward in situ just to gain a few mm for the tiles .

I'm glad I've spotted the issue now. I'm getting ready to tank it all (Aquaseal) so whilst the delay isn't welcomed, hopefully I won't have to muddle a fix later

  • Like 1
Posted
Just now, MortarThePoint said:

 

Gulp, hopefully the Mira Flight one is OK as I'll be wrestling with that in a few days

I had a few trays and naturally assumed supplied waste would be good . Eventually as advised on here I gave up ( I couldn’t stop them leaking no matter how hard I tried ) . Got a proper waste and trap . Instantly felt better as I installed it . Neither have leaked since .

Posted
25 minutes ago, Pocster said:

I had a few trays and naturally assumed supplied waste would be good . Eventually as advised on here I gave up ( I couldn’t stop them leaking no matter how hard I tried ) . Got a proper waste and trap . Instantly felt better as I installed it . Neither have leaked since .

 

Mira Flight aren't 90mm otherwise I would have swapped to McAlpine 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
12 hours ago, crispy_wafer said:

This sort or widget

 

Tap Extension - 1/2" M x 1/2" F - 10222

 

Can be got in various lengths

 

I've ordered these (BES) for quick delivery.

 

I have also found another option which is using longer offset connectors:

 

IMG_20241029_070414.thumb.jpg.6c22dd534d6518ee9e40757bea90f23a.jpg

 

Those are 65mm total length, but there are also 60mm and 50mm ones. There are even 75mm ones and probably other lengths too if you search hard enough. Also available in silver colour.

 

If you're confident of your centres, you could use a straight 1/2" tube (64mm) with a 1/2" to 3/4" thread adaptor/bush. Both available from Toolstation so local.

image.jpeg.2ea09a42b8a0a2d770496b82fe6ab41b.jpeg

I think I prefer the BES option as it can be fitted and tanked at this stage. I suppose the straight one can too, but then you have to be sure of centres etc.

Edited by MortarThePoint
Posted
34 minutes ago, MortarThePoint said:

If you're confident of your centres, you could use a straight 1/2" tube (64mm) with a 1/2" to 3/4" thread adaptor/bush. Both available from Toolstation so local.

 

An additional concern with this approach is that the bush would need tightening and there's no spanner access. You could lock it off using the nut supplied on the tube though. These straight adaptors address that problem, but are only 51mm long.

image.jpeg.b821c563db6b59f6c5dd890cf9dcc13e.jpeg

Posted (edited)

Am I missing something here?

 

What's wrong with a Hep2O elbow and a length of copper sticking out through the wall in the correct place. 

 

Then tank and tile as required. 

 

Then drill the tiles and fit these with long screws, rawlplugs and plenty of mastic in the screw hole? 

 

image.jpeg.b347c00032da53a1420922a9a307dbb8.jpeg

 

You'll need to drill tiles but it's not rocket science. 

Edited by Iceverge
Posted
32 minutes ago, Iceverge said:

Am I missing something here?

 

What's wrong with a Hep2O elbow and a length of copper sticking out through the wall in the correct place. 

 

Then tank and tile as required. 

 

Then drill the tiles and fit these with long screws, rawlplugs and plenty of mastic in the screw hole? 

 

image.jpeg.b347c00032da53a1420922a9a307dbb8.jpeg

 

You'll need to drill tiles but it's not rocket science. 

 

A different approach but not where I am now and I'm not going back to square one when there are good solutions where I am.

 

I think you need to chase the blockwork A lot deeper to fit the elbow. A small downside of that approach is the centres aren't fixed. I'm doing this elsewhere in a stud wall.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Somewhat amusingly, I have now ended up with the opposite problem. The offset connectors supplied with the mixer are 46mm long and it all now sticks out too far for the threads to get fully covered. The face of the brass BES extension is flush with the surface of tile and they have a short thread section so don't allow the offset connector all the way in. That leaves two options:

  • Like 1
Posted
32 minutes ago, MortarThePoint said:

 

With an angle grinder?

 

Belt sander would make relatively quick work if you want something more precise.

 

Flap disk also probably less intimidating if you have a vice to hold the part.

 

Lots and lots of options depending on your comfort level.

Posted
4 hours ago, MortarThePoint said:

With an angle grinder?

I always use a hacksaw and file for things like that. More forgiving.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...