Jump to content

Alternatives to silicone for fitting sinks


Recommended Posts

This is standard sink:

 

https://www.ikea.lt/en/products/kitchen/kitchen-taps-sinks-and-sink-accessories/kitchen-sinks-and-sink-accessories/langudden-inset-sink-1-bowl-spr-29157477

 

The edges are annoying if you like to sweep crumbs into the sink from the worktop.

 

0865504_PE585234_S4.jpeg.91a65ae03bb86791bd611bde35a142f1.jpeg

 

 

This is a sink that replaces a chunk of worktop:

 

https://www.ikea.lt/en/products/kitchen/kitchen-taps-sinks-and-sink-accessories/kitchen-sinks-and-sink-accessories/ammeran-onset-sink-1-bowl-spr-59158164

 

Those edges could be flush with the worktop.

 

0866192_PE584941_S4.jpeg.d8377ed1e57d878b39038518d20ea2a6.jpeg

 

 

Ordinarily you'd silicone that gap. Silicone is rubbish for longevity though. Scrub it unsympathetically and it will peel. Is there anything else that can be used? Might an epoxy grout do the trick?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 minutes ago, markocosic said:

This is standard sink:

 

https://www.ikea.lt/en/products/kitchen/kitchen-taps-sinks-and-sink-accessories/kitchen-sinks-and-sink-accessories/langudden-inset-sink-1-bowl-spr-29157477

 

The edges are annoying if you like to sweep crumbs into the sink from the worktop.

 

0865504_PE585234_S4.jpeg.91a65ae03bb86791bd611bde35a142f1.jpeg

 

 

This is a sink that replaces a chunk of worktop:

 

https://www.ikea.lt/en/products/kitchen/kitchen-taps-sinks-and-sink-accessories/kitchen-sinks-and-sink-accessories/ammeran-onset-sink-1-bowl-spr-59158164

 

Those edges could be flush with the worktop.

 

0866192_PE584941_S4.jpeg.d8377ed1e57d878b39038518d20ea2a6.jpeg

 

 

Ordinarily you'd silicone that gap. Silicone is rubbish for longevity though. Scrub it unsympathetically and it will peel. Is there anything else that can be used? Might an epoxy grout do the trick?

I would have neither, and go underslung?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

I have used CT1 instead of silicone for a worktop.  It is a pain to finish nicely.  It also discolours if you use clear or white.

I have done many bathrooms with the shower screens bonded with the clear CT1 and never had any issues with discolouration. All very much on show so I'd have been pulled over it by now.

 

361701A9-9A81-48CB-8C15-AD0A64C3BED5.jpeg

 

The white does discolour, and should never be the finish left on show.

Around the backs of WC pans etc I use the clear CT1 for fundamental sealant, wiped back slightly with baby wipes to leave a gap for a microban / forever white silicone sealant to go atop. When that gets a bit funky, it is very easy to strip and refresh.

Edited by Nickfromwales
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Underslung is going to restrict worktop choices more - that might not be in my remit.

 

 

The other option would be carefully (!) routing out a rebate in the [laminate] worktop to take a sink with a "flat" rim and bedding it on goop such that the top of the sink were flush with the worktop. Something like this: chosing IKEA because convenient for examples)

 

https://www.ikea.lt/en/rooms/kitchen/kitchen-taps-sinks-and-sink-accessories/kitchen-sinks-and-sink-accessories/norrsjon-inset-sink-1-bowl-spr-49157909

 

Mask the worktop. Router the rebate to say 6 mm depth if the sink edge is 3 mm thick and make the rebate say 3 mm larger than the sink all round. Cut the hole for the main sink body. Attach something to the top of the sink so that it cannot fall too deep into the hole (i.e. so that gravity would hold it flush with the worktop). Goop the rebated edge thoroughly. Mask the edge of the sink. Drop the sink in hole, wiggle into alignment so that there's a consistent 3 mm border around the sink. Wipe, wait, unmask. Hopefully the sink is now flush with the worktop and sealed. 

 

Feels ambitious for a laminate worktop not turning to weetabix. Might work well for a wooden worktop?

 

 

0867576_PE585260_S4.jpeg.02181ffa9ca68b828ff1f8bbdf765e0f.jpeg

 

 

 

Is there anything special about CT1 vs other "MS Polymer" sealants/adhesives? (CT1 isn't sold here)

 

http://www.soudal.eu/soudalweb/productDetail.aspx?w=9&p=231&ID=1905

https://www.toolstation.com/soudal-fix-all-crystal-adhesive-sealant/p61251

https://www.ermitazas.lt/Statybines-medziagos/Sandarinimo-montazines-priemones/Hermetika-montaziniai-klijai/Klijuojantis-hermetikas-SOUDAL-FIX-ALL-CRYSTAL-bespalvis-290-ml-131091.html

 


 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 02/05/2022 at 15:34, markocosic said:

Feels ambitious for a laminate worktop not turning to weetabix. Might work well for a wooden worktop?

Absolutely forget routing that into a chipboard / laminate worktop….suicide mission. 
Would work with a wood top, but don’t router so deep is my opinion, just keep skimming and trying the fit until it’s 1-2mm under flush. Then seal it in. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Conor said:

Don't use the Screwfix stuff, yellows in no time.

The ever build Stixall is the only adhesive / sealant that Mermaid would let me use with their shower panels, for both bonding and sealing. That stays perfect. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

The ever build Stixall is the only adhesive / sealant that Mermaid would let me use with their shower panels, for both bonding and sealing. That stays perfect. 

Our roofers used stixall. No idea what they were doing with it tho 🤣

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Conor said:

Our roofers used stixall. No idea what they were doing with it tho 🤣

Tacking down wayward slates most probably. Often get those few stubborn bastards which refuse to play nicely. 

Edited by Nickfromwales
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

The ever build Stixall is the only adhesive / sealant that Mermaid would let me use with their shower panels, for both bonding and sealing. That stays perfect. 

Interesting. I'm a big fan of Stixall for fixing panels and skirtings etc. It has good grab and cures fast, and is over-paintable. I rarely use it as a sealant except when wiping down joins with a wet cloth. Never thought of using it in place of silicone for sealing between worktops or sanitary wares though. Is that a practical use?

 

I've got some that's holding up ceiling coving that must be going on for over 10 years now - everything else I tried cracked apart but Stixall has the flexibility and adhesion to remain in place.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks 🙂

 

Stixall is definitely MS Polymer - I'll look for a local brand MS Polymer and use that in place of silicone.

 

Wood top with an inset sink feels like something that I can get past SWMBO. 

 

Have you ever worked with veneered worktops? Seem to be a few or there with 3-5 mm of wood over either cheaper wood or chipboard - could work insetting a sink, or even an induction hob come to that...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, markocosic said:

Thanks 🙂

 

Stixall is definitely MS Polymer - I'll look for a local brand MS Polymer and use that in place of silicone.

 

Wood top with an inset sink feels like something that I can get past SWMBO. 

 

Have you ever worked with veneered worktops? Seem to be a few or there with 3-5 mm of wood over either cheaper wood or chipboard - could work insetting a sink, or even an induction hob come to that...

I would only rebate if it was into solid wood. The engineered composite, veneered tops may be ok as the core is usually a cheaper sacrificial wood block, but solid wood that is treated is way more resilient and would be the better outcome afaic. 
I install for clients, so always go a bit more belt and braces. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, Radian said:

Is that a practical use?

I do it. As long as you’re not blasting the stuff over riven tiles / porous substrates where cleaning it back is a bitch, then you’ll be fine. I vary rarely use silicone these days. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks @Nickfromwales - in some ways we can afford to take risk (it isn't for a client so if there's a known risk we can better tolerate it) but in others we can't (don't get to do enough projects so don't know what the risks are) - I'd never have dared use "glue" as a sealant! 🙂

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...