markocosic Posted May 2, 2022 Share Posted May 2, 2022 This is standard sink: https://www.ikea.lt/en/products/kitchen/kitchen-taps-sinks-and-sink-accessories/kitchen-sinks-and-sink-accessories/langudden-inset-sink-1-bowl-spr-29157477 The edges are annoying if you like to sweep crumbs into the sink from the worktop. This is a sink that replaces a chunk of worktop: https://www.ikea.lt/en/products/kitchen/kitchen-taps-sinks-and-sink-accessories/kitchen-sinks-and-sink-accessories/ammeran-onset-sink-1-bowl-spr-59158164 Those edges could be flush with the worktop. Ordinarily you'd silicone that gap. Silicone is rubbish for longevity though. Scrub it unsympathetically and it will peel. Is there anything else that can be used? Might an epoxy grout do the trick? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnMo Posted May 2, 2022 Share Posted May 2, 2022 CT1? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted May 2, 2022 Share Posted May 2, 2022 I have used CT1 instead of silicone for a worktop. It is a pain to finish nicely. It also discolours if you use clear or white. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted May 2, 2022 Share Posted May 2, 2022 19 minutes ago, markocosic said: This is standard sink: https://www.ikea.lt/en/products/kitchen/kitchen-taps-sinks-and-sink-accessories/kitchen-sinks-and-sink-accessories/langudden-inset-sink-1-bowl-spr-29157477 The edges are annoying if you like to sweep crumbs into the sink from the worktop. This is a sink that replaces a chunk of worktop: https://www.ikea.lt/en/products/kitchen/kitchen-taps-sinks-and-sink-accessories/kitchen-sinks-and-sink-accessories/ammeran-onset-sink-1-bowl-spr-59158164 Those edges could be flush with the worktop. Ordinarily you'd silicone that gap. Silicone is rubbish for longevity though. Scrub it unsympathetically and it will peel. Is there anything else that can be used? Might an epoxy grout do the trick? I would have neither, and go underslung? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted May 2, 2022 Share Posted May 2, 2022 (edited) 23 minutes ago, Mr Punter said: I have used CT1 instead of silicone for a worktop. It is a pain to finish nicely. It also discolours if you use clear or white. I have done many bathrooms with the shower screens bonded with the clear CT1 and never had any issues with discolouration. All very much on show so I'd have been pulled over it by now. The white does discolour, and should never be the finish left on show. Around the backs of WC pans etc I use the clear CT1 for fundamental sealant, wiped back slightly with baby wipes to leave a gap for a microban / forever white silicone sealant to go atop. When that gets a bit funky, it is very easy to strip and refresh. Edited May 2, 2022 by Nickfromwales 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markocosic Posted May 2, 2022 Author Share Posted May 2, 2022 Underslung is going to restrict worktop choices more - that might not be in my remit. The other option would be carefully (!) routing out a rebate in the [laminate] worktop to take a sink with a "flat" rim and bedding it on goop such that the top of the sink were flush with the worktop. Something like this: chosing IKEA because convenient for examples) https://www.ikea.lt/en/rooms/kitchen/kitchen-taps-sinks-and-sink-accessories/kitchen-sinks-and-sink-accessories/norrsjon-inset-sink-1-bowl-spr-49157909 Mask the worktop. Router the rebate to say 6 mm depth if the sink edge is 3 mm thick and make the rebate say 3 mm larger than the sink all round. Cut the hole for the main sink body. Attach something to the top of the sink so that it cannot fall too deep into the hole (i.e. so that gravity would hold it flush with the worktop). Goop the rebated edge thoroughly. Mask the edge of the sink. Drop the sink in hole, wiggle into alignment so that there's a consistent 3 mm border around the sink. Wipe, wait, unmask. Hopefully the sink is now flush with the worktop and sealed. Feels ambitious for a laminate worktop not turning to weetabix. Might work well for a wooden worktop? Is there anything special about CT1 vs other "MS Polymer" sealants/adhesives? (CT1 isn't sold here) http://www.soudal.eu/soudalweb/productDetail.aspx?w=9&p=231&ID=1905 https://www.toolstation.com/soudal-fix-all-crystal-adhesive-sealant/p61251 https://www.ermitazas.lt/Statybines-medziagos/Sandarinimo-montazines-priemones/Hermetika-montaziniai-klijai/Klijuojantis-hermetikas-SOUDAL-FIX-ALL-CRYSTAL-bespalvis-290-ml-131091.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteamyTea Posted May 2, 2022 Share Posted May 2, 2022 Epoxy resin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted May 3, 2022 Share Posted May 3, 2022 This is the same stuff as is in the CT1 tube, I’m sure of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conor Posted May 3, 2022 Share Posted May 3, 2022 Don't use the Screwfix stuff, yellows in no time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted May 3, 2022 Share Posted May 3, 2022 On 02/05/2022 at 15:34, markocosic said: Feels ambitious for a laminate worktop not turning to weetabix. Might work well for a wooden worktop? Absolutely forget routing that into a chipboard / laminate worktop….suicide mission. Would work with a wood top, but don’t router so deep is my opinion, just keep skimming and trying the fit until it’s 1-2mm under flush. Then seal it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted May 3, 2022 Share Posted May 3, 2022 1 minute ago, Conor said: Don't use the Screwfix stuff, yellows in no time. The ever build Stixall is the only adhesive / sealant that Mermaid would let me use with their shower panels, for both bonding and sealing. That stays perfect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conor Posted May 3, 2022 Share Posted May 3, 2022 15 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: The ever build Stixall is the only adhesive / sealant that Mermaid would let me use with their shower panels, for both bonding and sealing. That stays perfect. Our roofers used stixall. No idea what they were doing with it tho 🤣 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted May 3, 2022 Share Posted May 3, 2022 (edited) 1 hour ago, Conor said: Our roofers used stixall. No idea what they were doing with it tho 🤣 Tacking down wayward slates most probably. Often get those few stubborn bastards which refuse to play nicely. Edited May 3, 2022 by Nickfromwales Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radian Posted May 3, 2022 Share Posted May 3, 2022 3 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: The ever build Stixall is the only adhesive / sealant that Mermaid would let me use with their shower panels, for both bonding and sealing. That stays perfect. Interesting. I'm a big fan of Stixall for fixing panels and skirtings etc. It has good grab and cures fast, and is over-paintable. I rarely use it as a sealant except when wiping down joins with a wet cloth. Never thought of using it in place of silicone for sealing between worktops or sanitary wares though. Is that a practical use? I've got some that's holding up ceiling coving that must be going on for over 10 years now - everything else I tried cracked apart but Stixall has the flexibility and adhesion to remain in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markocosic Posted May 3, 2022 Author Share Posted May 3, 2022 Thanks 🙂 Stixall is definitely MS Polymer - I'll look for a local brand MS Polymer and use that in place of silicone. Wood top with an inset sink feels like something that I can get past SWMBO. Have you ever worked with veneered worktops? Seem to be a few or there with 3-5 mm of wood over either cheaper wood or chipboard - could work insetting a sink, or even an induction hob come to that... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted May 4, 2022 Share Posted May 4, 2022 17 hours ago, markocosic said: Thanks 🙂 Stixall is definitely MS Polymer - I'll look for a local brand MS Polymer and use that in place of silicone. Wood top with an inset sink feels like something that I can get past SWMBO. Have you ever worked with veneered worktops? Seem to be a few or there with 3-5 mm of wood over either cheaper wood or chipboard - could work insetting a sink, or even an induction hob come to that... I would only rebate if it was into solid wood. The engineered composite, veneered tops may be ok as the core is usually a cheaper sacrificial wood block, but solid wood that is treated is way more resilient and would be the better outcome afaic. I install for clients, so always go a bit more belt and braces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted May 4, 2022 Share Posted May 4, 2022 17 hours ago, Radian said: Is that a practical use? I do it. As long as you’re not blasting the stuff over riven tiles / porous substrates where cleaning it back is a bitch, then you’ll be fine. I vary rarely use silicone these days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonD Posted May 4, 2022 Share Posted May 4, 2022 On 02/05/2022 at 15:34, markocosic said: Is there anything special about CT1 vs other "MS Polymer" sealants/adhesives? (CT1 isn't sold here) http://www.soudal.eu/soudalweb/productDetail.aspx?w=9&p=231&ID=1905 IME the Soudal Fix All Flexi is very good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markocosic Posted May 4, 2022 Author Share Posted May 4, 2022 Thanks @Nickfromwales - in some ways we can afford to take risk (it isn't for a client so if there's a known risk we can better tolerate it) but in others we can't (don't get to do enough projects so don't know what the risks are) - I'd never have dared use "glue" as a sealant! 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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