If it wasn’t for this forum I’d just stick expanding foam under them and be done with it 😁

18 minutes ago, SteamyTea said:

Quite impressed with @pocster's solution, quick and easy, and he had the rebar kicking about (cause he ain't got a clue how to use a tape measure yet, the final coping stone won't fit).

I think there’s a complement in there somewhere …..

All ready anticipated final coping not fitting . Will have to cut to suit and ‘somehow’ have my wall and copings ‘blend’ into the original wall and coping .

Out of interest these stones seem very soft I.e scratch , corners chip quite easily . Documentation that came with them said to leave outside in damp conditions to cure ( which they have been ) . How long should they take to cure ? ; I assume ( hope ) they do eventually go rock hard ???

Edited April 11, 20224 yr by pocster

3 hours ago, PeterW said:

What’s wrong with using an SBR mortar mix ..??

You mean Sbr and cement ? No sand . So like a yogurt type paste ?

1 hour ago, pocster said:

Well ; it’s nice and level . I do like my rebar method and will use that principle again on the front .

I will bed the copings in a very thin cement mix with Sbr - so I don’t get any abuse .

is it usual to have obscure glass in an outside shower? 😎

1 hour ago, pocster said:

Well ; it’s nice and level . I do like my rebar method and will use that principle again on the front .

I will bed the copings in a very thin cement mix with Sbr - so I don’t get any abuse .

When they fall off and smash that glass, at least you have something to use your structural glazing on.

2 hours ago, pocster said:

All ready anticipated final coping not fitting .

 

You may be better off having a full coping at the end and a partial one or two elsewhere in the run, especially if the cut would be less than 2/3.

Just now, Mr Punter said:

 

You may be better off having a full coping at the end and a partial one or two elsewhere in the run, especially if the cut would be less than 2/3.

I know . Tbh this part of the wall I really don’t care about . Apparently the grout ( which they forgot to supply ) matches the copings . So in theory joins look less obvious.

This wall ( and lane ) were the most contentious issues during my planning ….. so (expletive deleted) ‘em 

3 hours ago, pocster said:

How long should they take to cure ? ; I assume ( hope ) they do eventually go rock hard ???

Takes a few thousand years for a body to fossilise in the right conditions.

How long do you want them to last.

1 minute ago, SteamyTea said:

Takes a few thousand years for a body to fossilise in the right conditions.

How long do you want them to last.

I’m fairly certain the manufacturers intention isn’t to wait a few thousand years to ‘cure ‘ . They easily chip / scratch as I install them .

3 minutes ago, pocster said:

They easily chip / scratch as I install them

Chips can be filled with coloured car body filler.

Scratches tend to just vanish with age, and bird shit.

18 minutes ago, SteamyTea said:

Scratches tend to just vanish with age, and bird shit.

 

You spelt algae wrong. 

15 minutes ago, Radian said:

 

You spelt algae wrong. 

I spell most words wrong.

Why I hate English as a language. BSL is much more sensible.

Looks good so far. No reason why the finished article won’t look good either.

 

at least he’s giving it a go

Started to do the front ones as they are lighter ; maybe only 40kg each .

Firstly the Sbr / cement mix holds them well . They ain’t ever coming off the wall unless it’s with a breaker !

Annoyingly ( like with my tiles ) the error margin from the moulds seems quite high . You can line 2 up ; exactly parallel - yet the apex of one is a good 7mm ‘out ‘ compared to the other . Nothing I can do about that I guess .

Whilst doing it a neighbor that talks too me ( which is rare ) said “ It’s taking you so long because you are a perfectionist “ . I assume he wasn’t being sarcastic …..