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Posted
18 minutes ago, SteamyTea said:

Quite impressed with @pocster's solution, quick and easy, and he had the rebar kicking about (cause he ain't got a clue how to use a tape measure yet, the final coping stone won't fit).

I think there’s a complement in there somewhere …..

All ready anticipated final coping not fitting . Will have to cut to suit and ‘somehow’ have my wall and copings ‘blend’ into the original wall and coping .

Posted (edited)

Out of interest these stones seem very soft I.e scratch , corners chip quite easily . Documentation that came with them said to leave outside in damp conditions to cure ( which they have been ) . How long should they take to cure ? ; I assume ( hope ) they do eventually go rock hard ???

Edited by pocster
Posted
3 hours ago, PeterW said:

What’s wrong with using an SBR mortar mix ..??

You mean Sbr and cement ? No sand . So like a yogurt type paste ?

Posted
1 hour ago, pocster said:

Well ; it’s nice and level . I do like my rebar method and will use that principle again on the front .

I will bed the copings in a very thin cement mix with Sbr - so I don’t get any abuse .

7A827745-61B2-4024-91AC-82FC3282D8B9.jpeg

is it usual to have obscure glass in an outside shower? 😎

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, pocster said:

Well ; it’s nice and level . I do like my rebar method and will use that principle again on the front .

I will bed the copings in a very thin cement mix with Sbr - so I don’t get any abuse .

7A827745-61B2-4024-91AC-82FC3282D8B9.jpeg

When they fall off and smash that glass, at least you have something to use your structural glazing on.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
2 hours ago, pocster said:

All ready anticipated final coping not fitting .

 

You may be better off having a full coping at the end and a partial one or two elsewhere in the run, especially if the cut would be less than 2/3.

Posted
Just now, Mr Punter said:

 

You may be better off having a full coping at the end and a partial one or two elsewhere in the run, especially if the cut would be less than 2/3.

I know . Tbh this part of the wall I really don’t care about . Apparently the grout ( which they forgot to supply ) matches the copings . So in theory joins look less obvious.

This wall ( and lane ) were the most contentious issues during my planning ….. so (expletive deleted) ‘em 

Posted
3 hours ago, pocster said:

How long should they take to cure ? ; I assume ( hope ) they do eventually go rock hard ???

Takes a few thousand years for a body to fossilise in the right conditions.

How long do you want them to last.

Posted
1 minute ago, SteamyTea said:

Takes a few thousand years for a body to fossilise in the right conditions.

How long do you want them to last.

I’m fairly certain the manufacturers intention isn’t to wait a few thousand years to ‘cure ‘ . They easily chip / scratch as I install them .

Posted
3 minutes ago, pocster said:

They easily chip / scratch as I install them

Chips can be filled with coloured car body filler.

Scratches tend to just vanish with age, and bird shit.

Posted

Started to do the front ones as they are lighter ; maybe only 40kg each .

Firstly the Sbr / cement mix holds them well . They ain’t ever coming off the wall unless it’s with a breaker !

Annoyingly ( like with my tiles ) the error margin from the moulds seems quite high . You can line 2 up ; exactly parallel - yet the apex of one is a good 7mm ‘out ‘ compared to the other . Nothing I can do about that I guess .

Whilst doing it a neighbor that talks too me ( which is rare ) said “ It’s taking you so long because you are a perfectionist “ . I assume he wasn’t being sarcastic …..

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