Declan52 Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 Probably like me just handed the logs into the office and they didn't bother doing anything else with them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted May 22, 2017 Author Share Posted May 22, 2017 Well, nothing has happened this weekend, it rained too much, I was at the building show in Glasgow on Sunday though so picked up some good ideas and saw some good materials and systems. The rear found for the garage is 100% complete as of middle of last week, so I can start the block-work - I need 36 blocks to start it, I don't want a delivery of materials yet as they will get in the way so I went to TradePoint - 1 in stock! I enquired as to what was going on apparently the supplier as a shortage. I'll need to get along to the merchants this week and get them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted June 13, 2017 Author Share Posted June 13, 2017 I now have a small wall along the back found which the slab will be poured up to. I still have no planning permission for any of my projects annoyingly, that is 8 weeks almost to the day so I am hoping for something soon as I want to get watertight structures up before mid autumn! I will post some update photos soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted June 20, 2017 Author Share Posted June 20, 2017 Well, I have an update from planning. They didn't allocate my application so it's been sat unassigned to a planning officer! The council say they have a statutory 2 months to give you planning, well that's us into the 10th week, so I could not technically appeal but I don't want to start upsetting them because I am sure you all know what they can be like. They will now fast track it but need a minimum of 21 days for neighbour objections, I don't see a letter on the lamppost yet so I hope they back-date it! I am annoyed at myself though because I knew a letter would be attached to the lamppost outside, I was even waiting for it about a month ago, but sort of forgot about it recently with all the other things happening at the moment. I am just going to let it all happen then tear a shred off them once I have my consent and also try and at least get my money back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 1 hour ago, Carrerahill said: Well, I have an update from planning. They didn't allocate my application so it's been sat unassigned to a planning officer! The council say they have a statutory 2 months to give you planning, well that's us into the 10th week, so I could not technically appeal but I don't want to start upsetting them because I am sure you all know what they can be like. They will now fast track it but need a minimum of 21 days for neighbour objections, I don't see a letter on the lamppost yet so I hope they back-date it! I am annoyed at myself though because I knew a letter would be attached to the lamppost outside, I was even waiting for it about a month ago, but sort of forgot about it recently with all the other things happening at the moment. I am just going to let it all happen then tear a shred off them once I have my consent and also try and at least get my money back. There are so many reported instances of applications getting lost between the planning portal submission and the LA that you can only draw the conclusion that it's a deliberate mechanism by the LA to slow work volumes!! As you say you are between a rock and a hard place because the process for redress is largely pointless at this stage! I feel your pain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 Same here - couldn't track the payment between the portal and their systems so rejected for non payment despite me advising there was no way to hit "Submit" on the portal unless a payment had been successful ....... Added 2 weeks and they took 7 weeks and 5 days.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted July 12, 2017 Author Share Posted July 12, 2017 Update: planning officer has just left after doing her site visit, she says I can call on Friday and get a verbal with the letter going out soon after. The garage has had half the roof removed so half of it can be demolished this weekend - I will slice the walls down with the angle grinder and a diamond blade where the temporary stud/OSB wall is and pull it over with the excavator which shall be delivered on Saturday morning. I have ordered some hardcore for the garage slab area, top soil, fence posts and rails to build some "edging" which I will then fill up to the top of with good excavated soil to make the new level of the lawn - don't worry it will only be 200mm high. I was just going to form a little slope off at the end of the garden but I decided I would just edge it and finish it off square, I will then fill the other side with some bark around the trunks of the tree's there and that should look smart. By Sunday night I would like to have completed the following stages: 1. Edge lawn on 3 sides with posts and rails to raise it to current patio height. 2. Dig a hole in the middle of the lawn about 3m x 3m down to about clay layer. 3. Pull half of the side wall of garage down and the two small sections of wall either side of the car door. 4. Scrape garage site of poor gravelly top soil. 5. Chuck the wall and poor gravel contaminated top soil into the hole in the lawn (should I lay some pipe down to this area to create a soakaway of sorts?) 6. Fill in the hole compacting as we go. 7. Scrape the whole lawn site of all grass and turn it over and roughly level it. 8. Scrape the garage site of all the good top soil (and it is good stuff) using all or some of it to back fill the lawn site up to the edge of the new edging. 9. I may go right down to clay on the garage site if it's not just going to be an excessive depth and vast amounts of hardcore but on this site I think clay is only 300mm down. 10. Level the lawn site. At this point I will go and get a cold beer and with any luck light the BBQ for my *cough* workers *cough* - ahem family/friends. Probably a lot to try and do in a day but I think we can do it. Sunday morning assuming I have done all the above in a day I will scrape the front drive nearest the house of all the pebbles and a thin layer of poor soil in prep for a new front lawn. To get rid of this gravel I will maybe chuck it on the garage site. Spread the hardcore over the garage site. At that I think I am done. Additional work I may do if time and spare soil permits is remove a row of slabs adjacent to the new lawn to make it a little longer, if I have even more time and there is plenty of soil I may even move 3/4 columns of slabs and churn that up a bit, dig a trench for a small retaining wall to make a small raised bed along the side of the garden and then a strip of lawn. Wish me luck - will I post photos? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC45 Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 Will you also attempt to resolve the Brexit negotiations? Good luck! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted July 18, 2017 Author Share Posted July 18, 2017 Well the digging is all done, the lawn has been raised and the garage site cleared and dug out. I need to go in and sort out bricks and stuff which I piled up then I can start with the hardcore going in. I am pleased with the result, the lawn site needs graded properly as it was just roughly graded with the excavator as we ran out of time! I opted not to do the front lawn scrape as I didn't want to have too many mud pits! Photos on soon once I get them from my camera/phone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted August 4, 2017 Author Share Posted August 4, 2017 (edited) Here are some photos of the progress. I got 5.8 tons of 6F2 (recycled aggregate) delivered on Tuesday, whacker is coming next week (Friday I think) and on the same afternoon loads of MOT are due to arrive, so plan is whack the site, get a load in and levelled, whack it then get another load. Edited August 4, 2017 by Carrerahill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted October 13, 2017 Author Share Posted October 13, 2017 So, the plan above didn't really, well, go to plan! I have only just received the last load of type 1. Whacker is coming tomorrow. With any luck I can post some images of a site ready for shuttering by the end of the weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeSharp01 Posted October 14, 2017 Share Posted October 14, 2017 On 11/05/2017 at 07:13, Ferdinand said: Isn't that a Mexican standonoff Perhaps it is an example of recursion - for recursion see recursion... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted November 3, 2017 Author Share Posted November 3, 2017 Update: Just off the phone to my ground works man. The concrete has been booked for next Saturday 08:00. The shuttering is 3/4 built, but only about 2/3 rakers have been set, so this weekend I must fit all the rakers, lay in the gulley and T branch for the waste, lay in a piece of electrical conduit to get my SWA in via the floor, lay in a piece of conduit for the water, and a 4 inch conduit for data or control cables or whatever and haunch it all. Then I need to do a final level of the hardcore and the ground work man will be round on Sunday to whack it (just the final 75/100mm cover). Then I have next week to roll out the DPC and lay and tie the rebar. All seems quite doable, although I really only have this Saturday and evenings next week. I am looking forward to getting this stage done as I feel as if I have had a hole in the ground for some time and it will then let me strip all the shuttering and have a major tidy up of all the wood I have been amassing to build the supporting structure of the shuttering. I can also start getting the ground levels up to the slab more or less worked out. I will post photos, promise - I just might not do it soon! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted December 4, 2017 Author Share Posted December 4, 2017 (edited) Concrete was placed today... 6.2 x 5 - 200mm slab C35 Edited December 4, 2017 by Carrerahill 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted June 9, 2018 Author Share Posted June 9, 2018 Morning All! OK - the block, sand, cement and lintels are outside, the slab is ready (felled a couple of small tree's and gave the others a trim back) I gave it a good clean to ensure good mortar adhesion and I am waiting for my neighbour who is a bricklayer. Don't laugh but I am sitting on ACAD just now tweaking the front door design. The garage is 4800mm wide, I must come in about 1000mm from the left to avoid tree's further along I don't want to remove but I am now not sure if I should go 3000mm wide or 2500mm etc... I have spoken to a roller door company and cannot remember what they said about maximum width, I don't want the block built then find I have gone too big! Also, don't need to think about this for a couple of hours but need to choose my window height! I will upload photos later/tomorrow/Monday. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted June 12, 2018 Author Share Posted June 12, 2018 (edited) First photo is just the trees cleared back along slab edge, the second shows the progress by about lunchtime on the Sunday. We are sitting at 7 blocks high with front butts and corners higher - we had a bit of a setback on the Saturday night in the form of a 1 in 30 year rain occurrence, the brickie had all the corners up ready to fill the sides in on the Sunday, I got out with tarps as soon as I could but the walls were bleeding mortar and one totally collapsed. We have not had rain for over 4 weeks and it had to rain that night! Anyway, I cleaned all the blocks up and this was all rebuild on the Sunday morning and then progress continued. It is to be finished on the 30th which suits me as then I don't need to think about the roof design till the block is up! Edited June 12, 2018 by Carrerahill 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted June 12, 2018 Author Share Posted June 12, 2018 Now following on from above, the roof design - I am going to build it myself rather than buy in trusses (they didn't work out cheaper anyway and they looked like flimsy weak junk). The walls will be 10 blocks high all the way around, the gables are almost certainly going to be built in timber, sheeted, wrapped, battened and clad in cedar etc. There is also a central butt which makes me think I could build 3 sturdy trusses (the timber gables making up 2 of these) and run in purlins over which I could sit smaller rafters and not have joists. I can get some decent purlins from a local building merchant and could use a decent ridge board such as a 8x2/10x2. The idea behind this is that I can maximise headroom - I will probably floor out some of the roof space once I see what storage needs I want but I am going to avoid this for as long as possible as I don't like to encourage hoarding. So I am looking for thoughts here. The only real spec I need to stick to is the roof needs to be about 30° as that's what is on the planning drawing and it will probably have tiles but I may go for those metal sheets that look like tiles - again advice appreciated. I am keen to blitz on with this and start the extension later this summer! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted June 15, 2018 Share Posted June 15, 2018 30 degree pitch gives a 1.45m ridge at 5m span, so 2.9m rafters needed. 8x2 Purlin more than adequate at that span although you won’t get 6.4m lengths so going to 6x2 rafters would eliminate the need anyway. I would create a 6x4 front, centre and rear truss using 6x2 doubled up and then just use cut rafters onto a 4x3 wall plate and a 8x2 ridge board. The middle truss can support the ridge beam and also provide the start of any storage however you will struggle with the width on storage as 5m will need a 6x2 joist and 400 centres to stop any sagging. Better to invest in some decent boltless shelving ..? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted June 17, 2018 Author Share Posted June 17, 2018 On 15/06/2018 at 07:44, PeterW said: 30 degree pitch gives a 1.45m ridge at 5m span, so 2.9m rafters needed. 8x2 Purlin more than adequate at that span although you won’t get 6.4m lengths so going to 6x2 rafters would eliminate the need anyway. I would create a 6x4 front, centre and rear truss using 6x2 doubled up and then just use cut rafters onto a 4x3 wall plate and a 8x2 ridge board. The middle truss can support the ridge beam and also provide the start of any storage however you will struggle with the width on storage as 5m will need a 6x2 joist and 400 centres to stop any sagging. Better to invest in some decent boltless shelving ..? Thanks Peter. I will come back to this in a week or so to bottom out the design and price it up - sounds good to me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted July 5, 2018 Author Share Posted July 5, 2018 (edited) On 17/06/2018 at 13:00, Carrerahill said: Thanks Peter. I will come back to this in a week or so to bottom out the design and price it up - sounds good to me! OK. The garage is now built I am happy with it, looks like it is going to be very spacious for my needs. So I have done some quick CAD drawings of what I think I will build for the trusses. Below is a basic exploded drawing showing the roof from the rafters, a rafter showing checks needing cut in the middle then the truss at the bottom. The truss will be an 8x2 joist and 6x2 rafters, Peter said 2x6x2 to give me a 6x4 which I can still do but I am thinking of 2 central trusses now and the gable end trusses so I wondered if I would be fine with a single 6x2 design - I am thinking of weight here as I will be lifting them into place with my brother (well that's the plan) so don't want 2 of us to be up a platform trying to pull up heavy trusses. I could always sister them in situ. You can see from my drawing that the truss is checked at the top to take a 6x2 ridge, then just over half way down another check for a 6x2 purlin then a 4x2 at the bottom which will just sit on the face of the 6x2 but I guess this could also be arranged just to sit on the wall plate? The thinking behind the angled 4x2 is to put roof loading onto the truss so that the wall plate is not being loaded with a diagonal load trying to spread the wall, but I suppose if the rafters are well attached to the ridge and mid purlin then they will not be moving outward anyway. There is also going to be a central spine running from the 6x2's down to the 8x2 that I have not drawn in this version yet. So thoughts please guys. I will also do a 4x2 on wall plate drawing and post that now. Edited July 5, 2018 by Carrerahill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted July 5, 2018 Author Share Posted July 5, 2018 4x2 flat option: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted July 5, 2018 Author Share Posted July 5, 2018 Blockwork 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted July 5, 2018 Author Share Posted July 5, 2018 (edited) Another question related to the above. I am going to build a gable truss which will be sheeted, wrapped etc. then I am going to fix cladding, I might just use some fence board, maybe some 150mm boards and then maybe a 75mm board down the join the way they often do the cladding on chalets and things. Or I will try and get some of that Marley weatherboard stuff. Anyway the fact is that some sort of cladding will be fixed onto the gable end then it will meet the block work that will simply be rendered. So question is about what I should line up with what. Here is my thinking: The idea here is that the OSB sheet will sit directly inline with the blockwork, then I can run the membrane down beyond the wall so that any water will run past the wall and not potentially onto the wall plate, when I install the membrane I can leave a nice leaf that can overhang the render, then allow the wood to come down an additional 100mm to cover it. How does that sound? Another option would be to let the gable truss sit another 12mm to the outside of the wall, then let the OSB drop down over the wall plate and down the wall a little too. Edited July 5, 2018 by Carrerahill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 5, 2018 Share Posted July 5, 2018 If the demo software of WOODexpress is still available then this might interest you. Great to have a play with. The demo one is limited on span and you can't print from memory... http://www.runet-software.com/WOODexpress.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted July 20, 2018 Author Share Posted July 20, 2018 (edited) OK the roof truss design was finalised and I built 2 gable end trusses (slightly different design to mid trusses) and 2 mid trusses which sit 750mm apart centred on the middle of the garage, this creates fairly short purlin spans for the 6x2 purlins. All feels very solid so I am happy. I have 11mm OSB sheet ready for sheeting, I believe I am meant to leave a small gap in between the sheets to allow for some air movement and so the edges, if they get wet can breath but what do I do at the ridge? I did a google image search and saw various "methods" some seem to leave a fairly large gap, where the sheet maybe only comes to within 40mm of the apex and some where it looks like they more or less bring one sheet up on one side and butt the other up from the opposite. What have you guys done? I will then staple tyvek breathable roofing membrane on and get some battens (verticals for now) to ensure the membrane stays put until I can get my tiles chosen. Anyway, here we are as of now: Edited July 20, 2018 by Carrerahill spelling 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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