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I was debating some non slip angles for the leading edges but damn expensive. Was even debating asking my fabricator to knock some up in 3mm aluminium Durbar.

Either that or a tin of Ronseal non slip decking paint which really does do what it says on the tin.....but is 'kin expensive!

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28 minutes ago, Onoff said:

I was debating some non slip angles for the leading edges but damn expensive. Was even debating asking my fabricator to knock some up in 3mm aluminium Durbar.

Either that or a tin of Ronseal non slip decking paint which really does do what it says on the tin.....but is 'kin expensive!

What's wrong with SBR and pavior sand mixed together ..??!

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Got x2 5L tins of black non slip floor paint I scored a while back thinking about it.....wonder if that would work?

Interesting about the sand in SBR idea though. I remember years back being told you could add "sand" to normal floor paint. Never tried it but back then without knowing otherwise I'd have added builder's sand!

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9 hours ago, Ferdinand said:

Could you just use wire mesh as they do on rural plank bridges?

Ferdinand

Not a bad shout that, I could get some stainless mesh easy enough. Ideally I want something that the won't hurt their backsides on if they slip coming down the spiral stairs. I think a "NO RUNNING UP STEPS" sign is a must. Saying that the geometry of the staircase just "works" which still surprises me. It's dead easy to walk up and down. Not saying BC would be happy with it of course!

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16 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

Maybe a nice hand-carved egg and dart moulding around the trailing edge of each tread would look nice B|

:D

I was thinking more some of those sworskofski (spelt entirely wrong!!!) crystals inset into the treads for anti-slip :D

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Round here they use chickenwire on plank bridges..

Another option would be aluminium tread plate, which looks cool.

You need the tools to cut 3mm metaul, but I guess most of us have that.

Cost is about £75 per sqm.

Ferdinand

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I'm more worried tbh about protecting the front top edge of each step. One to mitigate wear issues as these are only made from scaffold boards and more importantly to stop the kids slipping and them coming down on a hard edge even thought there's a very nominal radius on it. I was mulling over putting say a 1/2" radius on the front edge then gluing some sort of ribbed rubber sheet to the step with impact adhesive. Something like this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RIBBED-RUBBER-MATTING-3MM-THICK-ANTI-SLIP-NON-SLIP-BLACK-VARIOUS-SHEET-SIZES-/261369314008?var=&hash=item3cdad33ad8:m:mi2mUPKGLd3BO0huWDt07NA

I do have some old HV mats but they're much thicker.

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The roof.....

I made the roof out of some seconds, 18mm sheets. Not the best to start with I cut to size, treated with Creocote and let dry. I then put on ONE layer of sand felt.....and never got round to finishing it off as I tend to do (or is that NOT do?)

Anyway.....now I've finally concreted in the last two 4"x4" legs need I to get the roof sorted. Before I was reluctant to climb on top tbh. Unfortunately as I've left it so long the sand felt got torn, ripped some more etc leaving the top bit of ply exposed to the elements. This has started to warp I've just noticed.

Thinking that as the top of the felt is gone water might have (will have?) got under the lower pieces of felt. Will this hot weather dry it out?

Not sure whether to rip off all the felt and redo in 2-layers of felt or maybe get some of that UV "not felt" shed covering someone was on about a while back, here or on eBuild I'm not sure (anyone remember?).

I can see I might need to replace that bit of blown ply, it'll be OSB I use to repair it.

Cheers

SAM_2364

 

SAM_2366SAM_2365SAM_2369

 

Edited by Onoff
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Tbh I'm thinking EPDM:

https://www.rubber4roofs.co.uk/shop/shedcover-rubber-membrane-1-20mm/

This WAS the other stuff I think Jeremy mentioned but I need bigger/longer sheets (so maybe not his supplier). Pretty sure there was one place who would join the sheets for you:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Good-alternative-to-shed-roofing-felt-uv-resistant-olive-reinforced-pvc-/282099723947?var=&hash=item41ae742eab:m:m81vLOwJAemvS5X8MzaeYKQ

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Yes, I know, I should be doing the bathroom.....

 

Got the spiral stairs near finished. Rounded the edges and gave a couple of coats of S'fix No Nonsense wood treatment stuff:

 

20160724_192051[1]

 

20160724_192110[1]

 

20160724_192201[1]

 

Got the "handrail" ropes in but not so sure on the knots on the D rings; Bowline on the top and a granny at the mo on the lower rope. Need something I can easily undo and re-tension as required:

 

20160724_192127[1]

 

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24 minutes ago, Barney12 said:

They look great! 

Thanks. They actually "work" too. Even I, as an adult, can comfortably walk up and down them. Instead of rope for the handrail I did nearly use 20mm MDPE pipe. With a bit of further thought I reckon it would be easy enough to beef up the design for domestic use though I don't imagine BC would be too impressed! 

Edited by Onoff
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@Tennentslager Would be your man to talk to about EPDM.

 

Re knots, I would either just do a round turn and two half hitches, much easier to get tension on than a bowline, or if you want to really crank it up stick a figure 8 loop a couple of feet from the end and rig it up as a lanyard locked off with half hitches.

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29 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

How are you managing without cross-members or gussets on the main support legs? They're very long, doesn't the whole thing move at all when kids are blasting around?

 

It's pretty good tbh. There was little a bit of a sway (but not much) which was why I was anxious to get those last two galvanised feet on and concreted in. It's also got the staircase one end and the yellow foam wrapped pole the other, both concreted in. 

 

Next step is to remove the original decked area with all the junk on. Then it'll have a concrete base on a DPM and be framed out between the uprights. I'll probably do X bracing in the same 4"x4" as the uprights. Door on the left. Maybe the "walls" atop a little dwarf wall or one block high. Then breathable membrane and cladding to match the top. Should give me a 10'x5' shed for "stuff". NOT the "downstairs" my little 'un wanted! Mower lean to on the rear.

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1 hour ago, Crofter said:

@Tennentslager Would be your man to talk to about EPDM.

 

Re knots, I would either just do a round turn and two half hitches, much easier to get tension on than a bowline, or if you want to really crank it up stick a figure 8 loop a couple of feet from the end and rig it up as a lanyard locked off with half hitches.

 

Or you could use an agricultural wire tensioner or turnbuckle.

 

Or build the little darlings a capstan wheel so the big one can enslave the little one.

 

Ferdinand

 

 

Edited by Ferdinand
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Years back when it was just four posts  and a platform I rigged a cantilvered beam with a manual hand winch for my boy. The beam was at where the eave level is now. It was meant for them to lift buckets of sand! Next thing I looked up the garden and him and his mate had looped the wire rope around the yellow roof of his old Little Tikes car and were taking it in turns to lift each other about 10' off the deck. Worrying as the car roof was only  held on by self tappers!

 

download.jpg

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