What Resin To Use For Resin Anchors

[Johnny Jekyll]

We are installing a wall plate to hang posi-joists. The structural engineer has specified M12 Resin Anchors. I know what resin bolts are and I know the mixture mixes as it travels down the tube. I'd like any recommendations for which resin to purchase? Thanks very much. 

Edited September 10, 2021 by Johnny Jekyll

[TonyT]

Hilti 

[Johnny Jekyll]

10 minutes ago, TonyT said:

Hilti 

 

Thanks Tony, I'm looking at the Hilti website. There are numerous different options. Is there a specific one I should be looking at? these resin anchors (M12 in pairs @ 400 centres) are to hold the mid-floor wall plate, to hold the posi-joist hangers.

[Johnny Jekyll]

I'm looking at this one. HIT-HY 200-A ADHESIVE ANCHOR

[saveasteading]

Any make at all is hi-tech by default. If building a bridge though, best use hilti or other big name.

 

Lessons from experience (other peoples mistakes!), and some r and d of my own. 

Get a drill bit only just bigger then the bolt, otherwise you use a huge load of resin.

Clean the hole thoroughly with damp bottle brush or rag on a stick.. If being flash get a puffer and a bottle brush.

Use a longer bolt and hole than recommended as there may be some poor adhesion along the way. The outer 25mm does not contribute to the strength very much.

Do not use resin fixing in walls with voids, or the glue disappears, although you can get some stent type inserts for this.

If cutting dowels to use as bolts, screw  a nut on before cutting. When you take it off it removes the rough burring. 

When mixing the glue in the provided helical nozzle, the first lot is often only one part and has to be thrown. Check the colour.

Rotate the bolt gently in the hole while inserting into the glue so that it gets the glue on the threads. Also it picks up residues of dirt and take them safely into suspension.

(if you just push in, it pushes out the glue, leaving air in the thread where glue should be.

Best to have a little glue protruding so you know it is full.

After the first one you can adjust the quantity.

 

SUPERVISE, it is far from foolproof. My worst example was turning a nut onto a 30mm, 400 long rod, (one of 4 to hold down a 10m high column)....the bolt pulled out with the turning of the spanner. When it works, I prefer it to expansion bolts.

[Johnny Jekyll]

4 minutes ago, saveasteading said:

Any make at all is hi-tech by default. If building a bridge though, best use hilti or other big name.

 

Lessons from experience (other peoples mistakes!), and some r and d of my own. 

Get a drill bit only just bigger then the bolt, otherwise you use a huge load of resin.

Clean the hole thoroughly with damp bottle brush or rag on a stick.. If being flash get a puffer and a bottle brush.

Use a longer bolt and hole than recommended as there may be some poor adhesion along the way. The outer 25mm does not contribute to the strength very much.

Do not use resin fixing in walls with voids, or the glue disappears, although you can get some stent type inserts for this.

If cutting dowels to use as bolts, screw  a nut on before cutting. When you take it off it removes the rough burring. 

When mixing the glue in the provided helical nozzle, the first lot is often only one part and has to be thrown. Check the colour.

Rotate the bolt gently in the hole while inserting into the glue so that it gets the glue on the threads. Also it picks up residues of dirt and take them safely into suspension.

(if you just push in, it pushes out the glue, leaving air in the thread where glue should be.

Best to have a little glue protruding so you know it is full.

After the first one you can adjust the quantity.

 

SUPERVISE, it is far from foolproof. My worst example was turning a nut onto a 30mm, 400 long rod, (one of 4 to hold down a 10m high column)....the bolt pulled out with the turning of the spanner. When it works, I prefer it to expansion bolts.

Great advice thanks. I've watched videos on it and I'm pretty confident. I'm all about the detail.

[saveasteading]

F

3 minutes ago, Johnny Jekyll said:

I'm all about the detail.

But is your builder?

 

For your purposes I would get it from toolstation/screwfix/ merchant. £8 for a name we don't know, or £9 for Rawl. 

She special gun is about £25, or you can buy little job kits.

Show your Engineer and get his approval.....yes so choose a known name like Rawl or Fischer.

[TonyT]

It’s not flash to use a puffer, it’s following manufacturer’s instructions.

 

I prefer hilti, and follow their instructions, so it’s generally a 2mm bigger hole than the rod.

[Johnny Jekyll]

2 minutes ago, saveasteading said:

F

But is your builder?

 

For your purposes I would get it from toolstation/screwfix/ merchant. £8 for a name we don't know, or £9 for Rawl. 

She special gun is about £25, or you can buy little job kits.

Show your Engineer and get his approval.....yes so choose a known name like Rawl or Fischer.

 

Perfect thanks.

 

[Johnny Jekyll]

Thanks guys. I will use all your info and proceed very carefully as always. Gonna donate to the forum now. This is a great place.

[Moonshine]

14 minutes ago, saveasteading said:

If being flash get a puffer and a bottle brush.

 

My worst example was turning a nut onto a 30mm, 400 long rod, (one of 4 to hold down a 10m high column)....the bolt pulled out with the turning of the spanner.

 

This is why you use the puffer and bottle bush to make sure its sticking to the concrete, not a load of debris.

 

This is a good guide

 

 

[Johnny Jekyll]

Just now, Moonshine said:

 

This is why you use the puffer and bottle bush to make sure its sticking to the concrete, not a load of debris.

 

This is a good guide

 

 

 

Yes this is the one I watched when I first started looking at them.

 

[Johnny Jekyll]

Have just donated £20 to fundtheforum@buildhub.org.uk

Thanks guys.

[Pocster]

13 minutes ago, Johnny Jekyll said:

Have just donated £20 to fundtheforum@buildhub.org.uk

Thanks guys.

I donated more than you . That makes me a moderator in training . I am happy to say you have passed the initial test with flying colours . Have you considered walk on glazing ?

[PeterW]

If you’re not confident then use the glass vials from Fischer and follow the instructions to the letter. 
 

[Gus Potter]

1 hour ago, Johnny Jekyll said:

We are installing a wall plate to hang posi-joists. The structural engineer has specified M12 Resin Anchors. I know what resin bolts are and I know the mixture mixes as it travels down the tube. I'd like any recommendations for which resin to purchase? Thanks very much. 

If you swap the bolts for rods cut to length on site just check what grade of bolt the SE has speced.. this could be 5.6 or say 8.8 grade. You can buy rod online say that is certified as being a particular grade. To avoid any hassle later on get a receipt that shows the grade of rod. If in any doubt get an 8.8 grade rod and nut to match as this usually covers all domestic applications.

 

Some of the rods you get from DIY suppliers don't always have the grade specified and thus can appeal to the wallet at first glance.

 

If you have rod left over this can come in useful to fix, for example floating shelves.

[Onoff]

37 minutes ago, pocster said:

I donated more than you . That makes me a moderator in training .

 

No, that was the first installment of the fine.

[Onoff]

I like Fischer FIS V 360 S.

[saveasteading]

1 hour ago, TonyT said:

so it’s generally a 2mm bigger hole than the rod.

If you calculate the volume, the difference between 1mm and 2m is obviously about double, less the thread, so  can be a lot. Buy plenty of glue and mixer nozzles.

Yes follow instructions, but no bigger hole than they say. The builder will use the drill bit he has, and you will be off to buy the same amount of glue again.

 It is worth buying a nice new bit to the 0.5mm.

Often the rods are a smaller dia than stated.

And it goes off in the tube in a year or so, so don't buy too much either.

 

The glass vials can go wrong too, and the advantage is, I think, only that it is pre-measured.  Oh, and you can more easily do them one at a time. I prefer to see the 2 parts mixing to a single colour, and knowing that is one of the many possible errors avoided.

 

On the plus side, I have not known a properly fixed resin anchor to fail, but have seen expansion bolts working loose.

 

Very good point about the grade of steel. If they can't tell you, then don't buy it.

If ever wanting lots of stud, it is about half price from specialists on-line. All grades and finishes.

[Gus Potter]

Bit of fun on using up extra resin anchors.  Setting up part of the kitchen. The shelf is the top off an old oak sideboard. Will put a false base on it with some lighting to shine down on kitchen worktop and hide the rod /galv band ect.

 

Rods are left over M12's that was used for anchoring structural stuff. Wall is 52.5 mm insulated plasterboard with 30mm of fire protection behind so 80mm of soft stuff. Holes below are test holes to find the studs. Drilled through the lot and about 40mm into the timber studs behind.. they (studs) can take this hole in this case structurally wise.

 

Was going to put some resin in but thought let's try it by just putting a double lock nut on the end of the rod so I can turn the rod with a spanner.. and see if it the shelf will hold a bit of weight by just self tapping  /threading it into the timber.

 

It does so far! There is a little flex in it but not putting loads of books etc on the the shelf.

[saveasteading]

2 hours ago, saveasteading said:

My worst example was

Just remembered with a shiver...no it wasn't the worst.

 

The worst was when a truck hoist fell over (with 5 tonnes of truck) because a base anchor pulled out of a slab.

 

My slab but the client's hoist installer. They had only used 12dia expanding anchors 75mm deep into the floor slab. Should I think have been 16 dia, 200 deep.

By the time I got there the client had realised not to blame me.  I got the chance to see a genuine (not lab) failure, with the perfect cone shapes of concrete attached to the bolts that had pulled out.

A demonstration of how the depth makes a disproportionate benefit to the strength, as the surface area of the cone increases.

 

I didn't ask about the state of the truck in their time of stress, but nobody was hurt, very  luckily, as the mechanic had heard the creak and dived for cover.

 

Hoping not to dream of any other horrors.

[Pocster]

52 minutes ago, Gus Potter said:

loads of books

What’s a “ book “ ?

[Onoff]

8 minutes ago, pocster said:

What’s a “ book “ ?

 

It's up there with your other unknowns like "trousers". 

[Gus Potter]

5 minutes ago, pocster said:

What’s a “ book “ ?

It's a thing you can recycle.. to light the fire with when the kindling has run out or the pages when there is no toilet roll.

 

Just kidding.

 

 

[Pocster]

1 minute ago, Gus Potter said:

It's a thing you can recycle.. to light the fire with when the kindling has run out or the pages when there is no toilet roll.

 

Just kidding.

 

 

Use when the kindle has run out . Books are for peasants- I’m in a mood tonight