jayroc2k Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 I have costed OSB 3 T&G and it is £100-150 cheaper than 18mm plywood for structural floor on ground floor joist. Is the £100 worth saving? i just want a floor that does not Squeak. The builder went over board with noggin so the joists have a solid timber noggin almost every 800mm. Whole joist looks like lots of square boxes. All joist in C24 47x150 timber thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayroc2k Posted March 7, 2017 Author Share Posted March 7, 2017 Photo of joist Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 Why not just use chipboard? You could probably go up to 22mm and still work out cheaper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 22mm T&G chip with Spax floor screws. Solider than a solid thing and no squeaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpd Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 (edited) Wow that looks like your preparing to park a tank in there..... i cant help on which material to use but i have used a "no squeak" silicon on top of joists before gluing and screwing them down and it worked very well, more money though. I used 22mm chip on the above. Edited March 7, 2017 by Cpd Forgot something.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 +1 on the 22mm chipboard. Glue the joints if you want to make the whole thing bullet proof. Or brush a PVA solution into the joints afterwards. Don't be shy on the screws! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayroc2k Posted March 7, 2017 Author Share Posted March 7, 2017 Thanks. Floor build up has been designed with 18mm floor boards in mind. Chipboard is only £20 cheaper than OSB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 22mm P5 Chipboard, glued to the joists and then joints glued. Screws (not nails) every 300mm, and at 50mm of a join. It will be moisture resistant and also solid and squeak free..! OSB is too rough to use as flooring, and ply is overkill UNLESS you are laying tiles on it. If it is being tiled, go for 18mm P5 Chipboard then overlay with 6mm ply fully bonded and screwed to the deck below.... I take it you've no pipe or wiring runs to do in that floor otherwise the plumber and sparky are going to hate your bricky... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfb Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 What ever it is I would glue it down with PU glue. A mistake I put down to experience! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 A quick copy n paste from our old vehicle http://www.ebuild.co.uk/topic/12584-no-squeak-weyroc-flooring/page__fromsearch__1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 I have just had the first floor for my new build laid and it was 22mm chipboard, plastic coated so that it can be peeled and left clean after plastering and decorating, and glued ONLY to the Finn joists with D4 glue, my builder has used this system for quite a while and never gets a squeaky floor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gone West Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 My first floor is 22mm T&G chipboard glued and screwed to metal web joists, no squeaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 22 hours ago, joe90 said: I have just had the first floor for my new build laid and it was 22mm chipboard, plastic coated so that it can be peeled and left clean after plastering and decorating, and glued ONLY to the Finn joists with D4 glue, my builder has used this system for quite a while and never gets a squeaky floor. It's the shank of partly / poorly driven nails or screws that causes the squeak . Im a bit sceptical of glue only as it expands quite a bit, but if you are used to it and are walking on it during curing time then it will stay 'down', so agreed that you can lay it 'floating' e.g. no mechanical fix with good results. Nice to hear of someone thinking outside the box . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 FFS don't be tempted to use angular ring nails! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 Annular 50's are what I use in the gas nailer to put flooring down if I'm on site on day rate. But, I make sure the glue is swimming, and that I stand, both feet, either side of where each nail goes in so the deck is tight to the joist. I prefer screws hence my patter in the Ebuild link. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayroc2k Posted March 8, 2017 Author Share Posted March 8, 2017 Thanks 18mm T&G ordered from buildingdepot for cheap. Will ask builder to screw it down i may have been over thinking this. As with all things relating to the renovation! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 8 hours ago, jayroc2k said: i may have been over thinking this. As with all things relating to the renovation! Perfectly normal. Its why we're all here in the first place Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 40 minutes ago, Barney12 said: Perfectly normal. Its why we're all here in the first place I was lured here under the promise of free beer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 9 hours ago, jayroc2k said: 18mm T&G ordered from buildingdepot for cheap. Will ask builder to screw it down Dont forget the glue too ..! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayroc2k Posted March 9, 2017 Author Share Posted March 9, 2017 (edited) The idea of glue worries me, if I ever need to access the pipes (herringbone requires glue), I'll have to damage to glued top floor, glued UFH insulation boards and glued OSB deck. Althought the OSB is the cheapest component. I have this worry of mice chewing cables or pipes under the joist floors Edited March 9, 2017 by jayroc2k Spelling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 2 minutes ago, jayroc2k said: The idea of glue worries me, if I every need to access the pipes (herringbone required glue), I'll have to damage to glued top floor, glued UFH insulation boards and glued OSB deck. Althoght the OSB is the cheapest component. I have this worry of mice chewing cables or pipes under the joist floors It is almost impossible (if not impossible) to get a T&G section out of a floor without cutting it, so you gain almost nothing by not gluing the joints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 You've answered your own question then, no glue it is. . I'd also reconsider sheets of OSB instead of T&G if your remit is to be able to lift the floor for any reason. T&G is a right pita if you want to lift sections without damage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 If you need access say a stop valve, lighting transformer etc from above then you can use this: http://www.super-rod.co.uk/media/press-clippings/ace-in-the-hole.html Limited access to actually do anything like change a fitting though as you can only get one hand in. Best to design out random junction boxes etc. VERY USEFUL though if you come across a glued and screwed T&G floor and have to run a new circuit! (Good too for making access points to drop rat bait under old suspended floors). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayroc2k Posted March 20, 2017 Author Share Posted March 20, 2017 Another flooring question, builder wants to use 12mm plywood for subfloor in 3m x 3m bathroom Build up is - 12mm plywood - ditri mat decoupling membrane - 60x60 tile 10mm he says the combined would be strong as each layer adds strength, it will also improve output from the under floor spreader plates does that sound right? Maybe 15mm plywood instead? Travis Perkin sells 15mm structural plywood Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 18 or 22mm. Anything else will have movement. He's talking ? , even more so as it's being tiled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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