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Recessed thermostatic shower valve stupidity


Pocster

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4 minutes ago, PeterW said:

That looks like it will come forward but I would carefully slack those screws off with an ordinary driver and not an impact as it looks like you used cheap crap screws and the heads will chew up if they aren’t done slowly.

Shouldn’t be cheap screws ( but could be ) I always buy Spax .

Already thought to undo screws by hand - didn’t want to risk burring them . Once I can access all 4 - will unscrew them about 10mm or so - should be able to judge it better then .

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The message from this thread to any casual viewers is to decide exactly an you wall finish BEFORE you mount the shower valves. Then check with a mock up of your actual wall finish that the valve is recessed the correct amount.

 

If tiling don't forget to allow for adhesive thickness.

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29 minutes ago, dpmiller said:

/there's a reason I went with cheap bar mixers...

But even those you can get wrong if you use the standard fittings that mount on a plate inside the wall.  Better to use the fittings that go on over the pipe from the outside and then you cut the pipe to length.

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7 minutes ago, ProDave said:

But even those you can get wrong if you use the standard fittings that mount on a plate inside the wall.  Better to use the fittings that go on over the pipe from the outside and then you cut the pipe to length.

 

6 minutes ago, PeterW said:

 

It’s also called RTFM ... Read The F&@ing Manual..!! It tells you the min / max dimensions and depths for installation. 

 

I did actually allow for it .

I allowed 10mm for tile ; 5mm for adhesive .

Checked this when it wasn’t tiled and backer board was on .

What I didn’t allow for was tile adhesive is more than 5mm also the square collar is around 5mm . So a bit of ‘drift’ adds up . I was actually more worried about it being too far forward - so I guess over compensated.

If I did it again I would deliberately leave this tile out and the backing board . Would be easier to judge and place then .

Live and learn 

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2 minutes ago, Temp said:

How much thread is there for the chrome sleeve? If there is a lot of thread could you add a spacer before fitting it? Then extend the brass bit if necessary.

 

Not sure .

How do I extend the brass bit though ?

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Roper Rhodes don’t do an extension kit but a 3rd party one may fit ?

Regarding ‘spinning’ chrome square . O ring does go on the back to hold it . He had no idea why it spins . I can’t see why it wouldn’t ! . Anyway bit of silicone will fix that .

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Ever played ?

 

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I just have ! . Couldn’t get the dremel in there so resorted to angle grinder !

@PeterW you were right . The screws were cack ! . All taken out slowly by hand !

I can just about gain 20mm !

Now it’s a case of nano operation to get the Packer in there ... ?

 

 

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Edited by pocster
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I think the technical term here is “ a c@&t of a job “

 

Used marine ply 12mm . Used one piece for the 2 top fittings . Got 1 decent screw in but the ply had slipped . Decided to cheat and use dry wall screw as couldn’t see the hole in the ply and didn’t want to split it with a normal screw. Done 1 of the lower ones . Got the other to do - but it feels stable already . Slightly on the p*as as the valve wanted to go where it wanted to go . Slight visible over cut on tile ( knew that would happen ! ) . But can push the plate long and was going to silicone the edges as gaps due to those bloody textured tiles .

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