Russdl Posted January 10, 2021 Author Share Posted January 10, 2021 @Onoff hmmmm. Perhaps we’ll change our elec UFH... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 7 minutes ago, Russdl said: @Onoff hmmmm. Perhaps we’ll change our elec UFH... I think SWMBO is angling for me to install a hypocaust. Overheard her talking to a mate, something about lighting a fire under my ar5e... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russdl Posted January 10, 2021 Author Share Posted January 10, 2021 @Onoff ??? (I had to Google it) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joth Posted January 11, 2021 Share Posted January 11, 2021 15 hours ago, Onoff said: @pocster & @joth will be along in a mo with their HA controlled laser shows. funny enough I just got the Loxone system programmed yesterday. 4 rooms have lights installed, but still no lightswitches due to delays with the humidity holding up the flooring which is holding up skirting boards holding up wall decoration, so I can control lighting from anywhere in the world on my phone more easily than anyone else can from within the room itself. only installed 2 LED strips so far, but they're looking great. it's a bit ironic that the first ones to be installed are necessarily the ones that are hardest to get at / maintain later on, which really raises the stakes on getting these first ones right first time, while still learning how to do them nicely We didn't bother with very fancy bathroom lighting, but for the tub my top tip is to get a couple of these small sound actuators and glue onto a suitable panel on it: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B071LH266V They don't look much but attached to the correct surface they sound surprisingly good. That's the only speakers I've installed so far, so they've turned into my "builder's radio". 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russdl Posted January 11, 2021 Author Share Posted January 11, 2021 6 hours ago, joth said: hardest to get at / maintain later on That’s nothing I’d given a great deal of thought to, in my situation I think decking lights in the wall behind the bath would be a lot more difficult to replace than an LED strip on the floor behind the bath, which in itself may be a tad tricky. LED strip it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted January 12, 2021 Share Posted January 12, 2021 On 10/01/2021 at 19:52, Russdl said: The boss likes ToughButterCups suggestion re the candles. She ALSO wants lights behind the bath. ... Not stupid is she, eh? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan Walton Posted January 23, 2021 Share Posted January 23, 2021 We have LED lighting in the bathroom in our house and I think it is a great idea to relax. In fact, we had some concerns at the beginning, but the end result exceeded our expectations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russdl Posted February 8, 2021 Author Share Posted February 8, 2021 (edited) Two questions. We got the profile from the company in the link that @PeterW posted. Should it just be set in a bed of mastic, or is this another job for CT1? Biggest question is what LED strip do I get to fit in? It will be completely hidden by the bath, shining up a wall tiled in those marble effect tiles in the picture. I don’t really know where to start warm, cool etc etc. Any pointers? Edited February 8, 2021 by Russdl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted February 8, 2021 Share Posted February 8, 2021 Clear CT1 is your friend here. Warm in bathrooms is nicer than cool. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 8, 2021 Share Posted February 8, 2021 27 minutes ago, PeterW said: Warm in bathrooms is nicer than cool. My downlights in the bathroom are cool white which we both prefer. I think though that's the reason it's so cold in there... ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gav_P Posted February 8, 2021 Share Posted February 8, 2021 Could you not get multicoloured then you can select the colour depending on the mood... ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted February 8, 2021 Share Posted February 8, 2021 9 minutes ago, Gav_P said: Could you not get multicoloured then you can select the colour depending on the mood... ? Fibaro zwave rgbw 442 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted February 8, 2021 Share Posted February 8, 2021 49 minutes ago, Gav_P said: Could you not get multicoloured then you can select the colour depending on the mood... ? Not unless he can pull a new cable in as RGB needs 4 core and he only has T&E from the attic. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russdl Posted February 8, 2021 Author Share Posted February 8, 2021 3 minutes ago, PeterW said: Not unless he can pull a new cable in And he ain’t doing that! So warm white and that’s it? No other numbers and letters I need to know or any other specifics for LED’s on the floor behind a bath? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted February 8, 2021 Share Posted February 8, 2021 (edited) On 10/01/2021 at 10:20, Russdl said: Our bath will be freestanding, maybe about 50 - 100 mm away from the wall at most. We wanted some LED lights on the wall behind and below the bath for the occasional chilled out soak . Our M&E guy was going to send us a link to some lights that he thought would do the job well but we didn't get that. I'm pretty sure that something like this is what he had in mind. They are decking lights and IP67 rated. It seems like a great idea to me but how would we do it? I know almost zip about electrickery. At the moment we have a grey cable coming through a hole in the plasterboard that is for LED lights. Do we just: 1. Cut the string of lights off from the transformer. 2. Join that string of lights to the in situ cable. 3. Find the other end of the in situ cable and attach the transformer to that. 4. Plug in. Switch on. Chill out? Or is it way more complicated than that? Help appreciated ? If it was me, I'd probably go for a recessed IP rated LED profile (strip of aluminium channel) ideally set into a rebate in the floor. I use a nice potted strip for things like this, 24VDC so safe for this use, remote 24V PSU. 3000K no more than 750-800Lm per meter for ambient uplight. Edited February 8, 2021 by Carrerahill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted February 8, 2021 Share Posted February 8, 2021 17 minutes ago, Russdl said: And he ain’t doing that! So warm white and that’s it? No other numbers and letters I need to know or any other specifics for LED’s on the floor behind a bath? IP65 would be good but not essential. Make sure the lid is sealed onto the track and you will be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russdl Posted February 8, 2021 Author Share Posted February 8, 2021 48 minutes ago, Carrerahill said: If it was me, I'd probably go for a recessed IP rated LED profile (strip of aluminium channel) ideally set into a rebate in the floor. Yep, did that (photo about 6 posts up there ⬆️ ) 50 minutes ago, Carrerahill said: 3000K no more than 750-800Lm per meter for ambient uplight. Thats the sort of numbers I was looking for, thanks @Carrerahill ? 48 minutes ago, PeterW said: IP65 would be good but not essential. And those letters/numbers, thanks @PeterW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russdl Posted March 7, 2021 Author Share Posted March 7, 2021 The LED strip is in but if I put the chunky heat shrink stuff over the soldered joint the LED strip will no longer fit in the channel. My electrician wants the joint protected. Can I just surround it in clear CT1? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 58 minutes ago, Russdl said: My electrician wants the joint protected. Can I just surround it in clear CT1? Good squidge of CT1 under and over the joint will be fine - even use a hot glue gun if you have one as that makes a solid mechanical joint too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russdl Posted March 7, 2021 Author Share Posted March 7, 2021 @PeterW I do have a hot glue gun. Should I use that in preference to the CT1? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 Either or both ...! Just gives a mechanical and quick setting solution if you want to crack on with it. Doesn’t need much. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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