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Posted
7 minutes ago, Russdl said:

@Onoff hmmmm.  Perhaps we’ll change our elec UFH...

 

I think SWMBO is angling for me to install a hypocaust. Overheard her talking to a mate, something about lighting a fire under my ar5e...

Posted
15 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

@pocster & @joth will be along in a mo with their HA controlled laser shows.

funny enough I just got the Loxone system programmed yesterday. 4 rooms have lights installed, but still no lightswitches due to delays with the humidity holding up the flooring which is holding up skirting boards holding up wall decoration,  so I can control lighting from anywhere in the world on my phone more easily than anyone else can from within the room itself.

only installed 2 LED strips so far, but they're looking great. it's a bit ironic that the first ones to be installed are necessarily the ones that are hardest to get at / maintain later on, which really raises the stakes on getting these first ones right first time, while still learning how to do them nicely

 

We didn't bother with very fancy bathroom lighting, but for the tub my top tip is to get a couple of these small sound actuators and glue onto a suitable panel on it: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B071LH266V

 

They don't look much but attached to the correct surface they sound surprisingly good.  That's the only speakers I've installed so far, so they've turned into my "builder's radio". 

 

 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
6 hours ago, joth said:

hardest to get at / maintain later on


That’s nothing I’d given a great deal of thought to, in my situation I think decking lights in the wall behind the bath would be a lot more difficult to replace than an LED strip on the floor behind the bath, which in itself may be a tad tricky. 
 

LED strip it is. 
 

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

We have LED lighting in the bathroom in our house and I think it is a great idea to relax. In fact, we had some concerns at the beginning, but the end result exceeded our expectations. ;)

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Two questions. 

 

We got the profile from the company in the link that @PeterW posted. Should it just be set in a bed of mastic, or is this another job for CT1?

 

Biggest question is what LED strip do I get to fit in? It will be completely hidden by the bath, shining up a wall tiled in those marble effect tiles in the picture. I don’t really know where to start warm, cool etc etc. Any pointers?

 

071B1250-F33B-460E-852A-842137DADF6A.jpeg

Edited by Russdl
Posted
27 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Warm in bathrooms is nicer than cool. 

 

My downlights in the bathroom are cool white which we both prefer. I think though that's the reason it's so cold in there...

 

?

Posted
9 minutes ago, Gav_P said:

Could you not get multicoloured then you can select the colour depending on the mood... ?

Fibaro zwave rgbw 442 

Posted
49 minutes ago, Gav_P said:

Could you not get multicoloured then you can select the colour depending on the mood... ?


Not unless he can pull a new cable in as RGB needs 4 core and he only has T&E from the attic. 

  • Like 1
Posted
3 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Not unless he can pull a new cable in


And he ain’t doing that! 
 

So warm white and that’s it? No other numbers and letters I need to know or any other specifics for LED’s on the floor behind a bath?

  • Haha 1
Posted (edited)
On 10/01/2021 at 10:20, Russdl said:

Our bath will be freestanding, maybe about 50 - 100 mm away from the wall at most. We wanted some LED lights on the wall behind and below the bath for the occasional chilled out soak . Our M&E guy was going to send us a link to some lights that he thought would do the job well but we didn't get that.

 

I'm pretty sure that something like this is what he had in mind.

 

image.thumb.png.f8878e2370b72884ba9316c629d224b4.png

 

They are decking lights and IP67 rated. It seems like a great idea to me but how would we do it? I know almost zip about electrickery.

 

At the moment we have a grey cable coming through a hole in the plasterboard that is for LED lights. Do we just:

 

1. Cut the string of lights off from the transformer.

2. Join that string of lights to the in situ cable.

3. Find the other end of the in situ cable and attach the transformer to that.

4. Plug in. Switch on. Chill out?

 

Or is it way more complicated than that? Help appreciated ?

 

If it was me, I'd probably go for a recessed IP rated LED profile (strip of aluminium channel) ideally set into a rebate in the floor. 

 

I use a nice potted strip for things like this, 24VDC so safe for this use, remote 24V PSU. 

 

3000K no more than 750-800Lm per meter for ambient uplight.

 

 

Edited by Carrerahill
Posted
17 minutes ago, Russdl said:


And he ain’t doing that! 
 

So warm white and that’s it? No other numbers and letters I need to know or any other specifics for LED’s on the floor behind a bath?


IP65 would be good but not essential. Make sure the lid is sealed onto the track and you will be fine. 

Posted
48 minutes ago, Carrerahill said:

If it was me, I'd probably go for a recessed IP rated LED profile (strip of aluminium channel) ideally set into a rebate in the floor.


Yep, did that (photo about 6 posts up there ⬆️ )

 

50 minutes ago, Carrerahill said:

 

3000K no more than 750-800Lm per meter for ambient uplight.


Thats the sort of numbers I was looking for, thanks @Carrerahill ?

 

48 minutes ago, PeterW said:


IP65 would be good but not essential. 


And those letters/numbers, thanks @PeterW

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

The LED strip is in but if I put the chunky heat shrink stuff over the soldered joint the LED strip will no longer fit in the channel.


My electrician wants the joint protected. Can I just surround it in clear CT1?

 

 

A6E276CE-63B7-4776-9474-74ADA3E8A87F.jpeg

Posted
58 minutes ago, Russdl said:

My electrician wants the joint protected. Can I just surround it in clear CT1?

 
Good squidge of CT1 under and over the joint will be fine - even use a hot glue gun if you have one as that makes a solid mechanical joint too. 

Posted

Either or both ...! Just gives a mechanical and quick setting solution if you want to crack on with it. Doesn’t need much.  

  • Thanks 1

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