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Posted
1 minute ago, ProDave said:

Very likely.

 

For a long time early in the build we had cardboard doors on most of the rooms.

I was hoping it was this . I’ll leave it for a few days then start turning on other zones ?

Posted

I happen to turn the radio off whilst I was standing next to the ufh manifold . Made a short gushing noise - like it was taking on water ; this correct ? . I assumed it would be like a conventional gas boiler and rads I.e just the same water circulating ...

As it was quiet it’s the 1st time I’ve heard it . Wasn’t the pump - that stayed at the same speed .

Just wondering ....

Posted

Probably some residual air in the system, it will whoosh or gurgle each time it comes past the pump.  If you have an automatic bleed valve it will eventually self purge.

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Posted
8 minutes ago, pocster said:

All seems to work 

Trying to get it to turn off at a set temp from room sensor 

 

 

C672C745-EBD0-474E-A6EF-1D3AF962F01F.jpeg

 

Tidy.............I can hear @Onoff tearing his hair out ?

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Posted (edited)
4 minutes ago, JFDIY said:

 

Tidy.............I can hear @Onoff tearing his hair out ?

I’m going to box it in . It’s hard to make it all neat without being sad and shortening every cable . It’s easier like this to locate a particular cable in event of an issue .

As I’m sure you are aware my view is “ if you don’t see it who gives a (expletive deleted) “ - not applicable to ocd people of course 

Edited by pocster
Posted (edited)
33 minutes ago, ProDave said:

No blending valve and manifold pump?

I’m afraid that conversation has happened before . The installer recommended on here countless times doesn’t think it’s necessary ( blending valve )

Edited by pocster
Posted
32 minutes ago, ProDave said:

No blending valve and manifold pump?

Sorry lol ! Yes there’s a pump just out of shot - see ?

image.jpg

Posted

Ok to get rid of the air permanently, isolate the manifold and open the top drain valve. Then remove the brass bleed valve head and replace it with one of the Aladdin automated UFH bleed valves. Then repressurise the system, bleed the top rail using the pin and it will self bleed the remaining air over a few hours running. 

Posted
1 hour ago, PeterW said:

Ok to get rid of the air permanently, isolate the manifold and open the top drain valve. Then remove the brass bleed valve head and replace it with one of the Aladdin automated UFH bleed valves. Then repressurise the system, bleed the top rail using the pin and it will self bleed the remaining air over a few hours running. 

Erm ! Overload ?

Will re read later . An Aladdin ? Does it need a rub ?

Posted
5 minutes ago, PeterW said:

@pocster do me a favour and take a close up of that brass thing on the top rail please. 
 

8940A452-EC88-4848-90E2-60F99608E38B.thumb.jpeg.dfc67e870612263a24d73360bc8cea15.jpeg
 

want to see where the thread is and if it has a hex top. 

 

image.jpg

Posted

So that silver thing on the right looks like a Schraeder valve. 
 

Undo the cap and push the pin and see if you get any air out. 

Posted
23 minutes ago, PeterW said:

So that silver thing on the right looks like a Schraeder valve. 
 

Undo the cap and push the pin and see if you get any air out. 

Ok, off site at the moment. Will try tomorrow!

Posted
4 hours ago, pocster said:

I’m going to box it in . It’s hard to make it all neat without being sad and shortening every cable . It’s easier like this to locate a particular cable in event of an issue .

As I’m sure you are aware my view is “ if you don’t see it who gives a (expletive deleted) “ - not applicable to ocd people of course 

 

That's going to be my new mantra. At the end of the day nobody cares how neat it is as long it works and if a paying job as long as they can invoice it. Better to do 10 sh!t looking jobs like that than one neat and tidy one. So what if the next person who looks at it thinks "What c**t did this?" He'll be the one remembered as taking an age to sort the problem not the one who did the job in record time. Better still if you can save on materials like cable ties and bootlace ferrules. Even better if the job then fails due to a dodgy connection, the customer will pay once again...and again. 

 

It's all about the coin ?

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Posted
2 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

That's going to be my new mantra. At the end of the day nobody cares how neat it is as long it works and if a paying job as long as they can invoice it. Better to do 10 sh!t looking jobs like that than one neat and tidy one. So what if the next person who looks at it thinks "What c**t did this?" He'll be the one remembered as taking an age to sort the problem not the one who did the job in record time. Better still if you can save on materials like cable ties and bootlace ferrules. Even better if the job then fails due to a dodgy connection, the customer will pay once again...and again. 

 

It's all about the coin ?

Cheeky (expletive deleted) ! That is neat ... FOR ME !

Posted
Just now, ProDave said:

Don't forget to put the cables under the cable clamps.

I will ! . Just leaving it ‘exposed ‘ until I’m convinced it all works .

House is so well insulated it’s still 19 degrees even though I turned them off at noon . Some HA code should turn them on once temp drops ( just as a test ) 

Posted
1 hour ago, pocster said:

Cheeky (expletive deleted) ! That is neat ... FOR ME !


That sort of workmanship would get you thrown off most housebuilders sites ........

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

... it’s far too neat and they don’t like that sort of thing ..!! ?

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