Onoff Posted January 31, 2017 Author Share Posted January 31, 2017 For a change I was kidding! Sacrilege to cut that walnut! Got the offcuts from when I tapered the bath sides: Not sure if the mills are still going tbh. None of its mine but this is the lathe I have access too. Take your life in your hands sort of thing: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 1, 2017 Author Share Posted February 1, 2017 7 hours ago, Construction Channel said: we haven't got time for that, There is procrastination to be discussed Curse @daiking for that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 3, 2017 Author Share Posted February 3, 2017 Couldn't resist.... 5 equi spaced, 6mm holes starting 50mm from the end. Mitre bonded one end cap on. Foamed the bottom hole then when it started coming out of the second hole up foamed into that and so on. Then lightly clamped a bit of ply on without compressing anything: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oranjeboom Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 Now that's an interesting place for a window cill! Well insulated at least! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Construction Channel Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 1 hour ago, Onoff said: Couldn't resist.... i would have put money on it 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 3 minutes ago, Construction Channel said: i would have put money on it I did ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 Frankly I'm surprised about all the fuss over insulation levels of this cill. By the time @Onoff has finished this bathroom global warming should have negated any need for controlling heat loss Oh hang on, I might have got that wrong: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/earth/environment/climatechange/12098431/Global-warming-delays-next-ice-age-by-50000-years.html Perhaps you should consider triple glazing? It would be awful to be cold when it's finished! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 29 minutes ago, Barney12 said: Frankly I'm surprised about all the fuss over insulation levels of this cill. By the time @Onoff has finished this bathroom global warming should have negated any need for controlling heat loss I shouldn't laugh..... But ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 4, 2017 Author Share Posted February 4, 2017 And he falls at the last post! It WAS all going so well too..... Got the window in. Old one out no problems despite the carp Erbauer sabre saw blades. In and wedged level. Foamed and allowed to go off a bit. FRAME fixings in. Putting the glass in and beading from the inside and the big ones in fine. But putting the fanlight in I made what I guess is the rookie mistake and put the long sides in first. Consequently it's a bitch trying to get the short bits in now. Just no "flex" in them. Is there an easy way of removing the beads without damaging them? (On the plus side it's much warmer in there now though that might be psychological!) Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tennentslager Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 Can you not get a hefty bit of 6*2 and spread the load and whack it in with a hammer... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Construction Channel Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 24 minutes ago, Onoff said: Is there an easy way of removing the beads without damaging them? short answer is no, best way i found is with a wallpaper scraper or a pair of them, and hammer it into the joint, don't twist it, just work your way down until you have a gap all the way down then gently twist it at one of the ends, drop of Wd40 might help but i have never tired that, If anyone else does know an easier (less likely to do any damage) way i am all ears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 4, 2017 Author Share Posted February 4, 2017 (edited) 34 minutes ago, Construction Channel said: short answer is no, best way i found is with a wallpaper scraper or a pair of them, and hammer it into the joint, don't twist it, just work your way down until you have a gap all the way down then gently twist it at one of the ends, drop of Wd40 might help but i have never tired that, If anyone else does know an easier (less likely to do any damage) way i am all ears. Piece of pi$$ and then some.....seriously! Slightly blunt chisel in this gap, bevel down. Give it a tap. Doesn't damage the frame and it just "lifts" out. Surprised me as I was expecting it would eff it up: Forget trying to lever from the rubber edge. Edited February 4, 2017 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Construction Channel Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 it is easier when you haven't got them all in . Happy days though, Whats next on the list? Edit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 4, 2017 Author Share Posted February 4, 2017 (edited) 28 minutes ago, Construction Channel said: it is easier when you haven't got them all in . Happy days though, Whats next on the list? Before I tried the chisel method I'd called my nephew (it was him who put me onto the window supplier in the first place and he's done some of his own). No answer so I went for it. I'd just got all the beads in when he turned up. I asked him if he'd had to take beads out again and he said yes by it was a complete bitch, you end up damaging them etc. He was as surprised as me when I showed him. Bit of rendering tomorrow though I might get some UPVC beads to butt up to and mitre bond them on. Wife's saying "It's warmer already!". Good sign. Back in the bathroom I guess. Got to order a wall hung wc when we can agree. Visiting big bro in hospital sometime. Slipped on his drive and managed to separate his thigh muscle from his kneecap! Went last night but he was in theatre. 8-12 weeks in plaster and the same for physio etc. Edited February 4, 2017 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 20 hours ago, Onoff said: Couldn't resist.... 5 equi spaced, 6mm holes starting 50mm from the end. Mitre bonded one end cap on. Foamed the bottom hole then when it started coming out of the second hole up foamed into that and so on. Then lightly clamped a bit of ply on without compressing anything: I missed this earlier, but I did something similar when filling some alloy tubes with can foam, and it's a trick that may be worth passing on here. The tubes I wanted to fill were 1" diameter 16g wall and just over 5m long (sorry for the mixture of units, but alloy tubes are often sold in imperial diameter and wall thickness but metric length...........). I got a bit of cheap 8mm PVC clear flexible pipe and found that it was a nice tight push fit on to my foam gun nozzle. I didn't block either end of the tube I was filling, but started from the centre, by having just over 2.5m of pipe on the gun. The technique was to squirt (slowly!) whilst pulling the pipe out. Having done this from the centre to one end, I did the same from the other end. It worked a treat. What I found didn't work was to try and fill the tube from one end, moving the gun back the whole 5m+. I tried it, made a mess, had to throw the bit of flexible pipe away and clean out the tube, before using the "centre out" method. I can't see why this shouldn't work for filling things like cills, as if you go slowly, pulling the pipe out as you go, there's very little risk of a pressure build up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 4, 2017 Author Share Posted February 4, 2017 No distortion on the sill whatsoever. Down to the clamping whilst curing I'm sure. One screw up I made with foam which I regret was to foam fill my 100x100mm steel gate posts. They condensate on the outside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 Over the years I've found that it's the fast-cure foams that seem to create the most pressure. I filled some flotation chambers in a GRP boat decades ago and managed to put bulges in the hull! I was filling these tubes (which were the gunwales for an experimental "no wood" rowing boat) really just to prevent them getting water inside. If anyone's inetrested I wrote the design and build up in an article in Watercraft magazine a few years ago, and there's some details of the design and build on this forum thread: http://uk-hbbr-forum.967333.n3.nabble.com/The-quot-Aerowherry-quot-a-lightweight-rowing-boat-was-going-to-be-a-canoe-td2424625.html Here's a photo of me rowing her up the Hamble to the pub: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryE Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 5 hours ago, JSHarris said: The technique was to squirt (slowly!) whilst pulling the pipe out. Having done this from the centre to one end, I did the same from the other end. It worked a treat. What I found didn't work was to try and fill the tube from one end, moving the gun back the whole 5m+. I tried it, made a mess, had to throw the bit of flexible pipe away and clean out the tube, before using the "centre out" method. The potential issue as I see it with slow withdrawal is that the foam goes pretty firm within an hour or so, but can carry on expanding for up to 12 hrs, so the deep expansion can create a lot of internal pressures leading to bulging. This is why I suggested a similar method working from the centre out, but doing it in multiple fills so that each fill is no more than a few inches, which expands out to around 6 or so. When I fitted my MDF cills I CT1'd them onto fixing battens, then after the CT1 had gone off, I used your withdrawal method to lay back-to-front lines of foam in the voids between the battens on a foam-to-gap ratio of roughly 1:2 and left this to go off. The foam then expanded to pretty much fill the under cill void. I then went back the next day and did any infill needed and this time I got some overflow. This I cut off another day later when it was truly hardened and the cills as solid as a rock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 That's a good point about continuing to expand, but you can usually mitigate it by spraying water in first. I think that the reason the cure continues for so long in a sealed space is that single pack PUs are moisture curing, and so cure from the outside face inwards, with atmospheric moisture as the effective curing agent. If you spray water into the cavity first, you provide the moisture needed to achieve a full cure in the centre far more quickly, and so reduce, or eliminate, the on-going expansion problem. A bit of water sprayed in also helps with adhesion to some materials, I've noticed. Another thing I found out with some PU foams (the two part, fast cure stuff) is that they tend to shrink back a bit after they've cured. I've had this happen when filling large voids, but not seen it with the single pack can foam, so I'm guessing the different cure method doesn't cause post-cure shrinkage. ST probably knows more about this, as I think he worked with foams professionally at one time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 5, 2017 Author Share Posted February 5, 2017 I need to get some UPVC trim to mitre bond on and render up to. Found a short, random length in the back of the old stable that matches some of the other windows (a line of holes in it for some reason). Measures nom 15x13mm. eBay to the rescue: http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/uPVC-Window-Finishing-Architrave-Trims-Plastic-PVC-4-x-1120mm-Lengths-/371424653872?var=640503198825&hash=item567aa27230%3Am%3Am5xcIc9bXTRM14UOYZWBkmg&_trkparms=pageci%3A5902c002-ebb1-11e6-ac6c-74dbd18094f7%7Cparentrq%3A0eba196015a0a5e0b8851677ffa27f9e%7Ciid%3A8&varId=640503198825 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 Beware of some glues and sprays as not all are for upvc . Some go horribly yellow after being sprayed with the activator so chose well for the finishing / makeup work. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 6, 2017 Author Share Posted February 6, 2017 5 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: Beware of some glues and sprays as not all are for upvc . Some go horribly yellow after being sprayed with the activator so chose well for the finishing / makeup work. Where does No Nonsense mitre bond rank then? ('Cos that's all I've got). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 I haven't used it for a while so check on some off-cuts first. Or should I say Onoff-cuts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 10, 2017 Author Share Posted February 10, 2017 Is she impulsive? I should say so! She tries but WTF is the point? I fitted the window and suggested I remove the old sill to line and seal the reveal. I come home and she's glossed everything! The sill which I pushed back a bit is letting a gale through! I gently mentioned it and got "Can't you fill it?" Mind you she's convinced you'll suffocate with MVHR! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 (edited) 24 minutes ago, Onoff said: Is she impulsive? I should say so! She tries but WTF is the point? I fitted the window and suggested I remove the old sill to line and seal the reveal. I come home and she's glossed everything! The sill which I pushed back a bit is letting a gale through! I gently mentioned it and got "Can't you fill it?" Mind you she's convinced you'll suffocate with MVHR! The problem I have is trying to, very delicately, explain that her work is total crap, and that when she's gone I'll have to undo it, clean it off and do it again. It has led to some sticky moments. The best example was oiling the doors in the new house. There was me thinking that if I rub them down, wipe them over with some white spirit, so they are ready to oil, I can give her a pot of oil and a decent brush, put some newspaper down under the doors and just explain gently that the oil needs to be worked in pretty well, to do a small area at a time, make sure there's an even coat all over the door and to try and brush with the grain. What did we end up with? A dozen doors that I had to clean off with white spirit after she'd gone, around £50 of wasted Osmo oil and a couple of days of my time wasted re-doing them all. Sadly, she noticed. She looked at what she thought was her handiwork a few days later, said she was surprised the doors looked as nice as they did, then asked me outright if I'd re-done them all. I couldn't lie, but I did have a day or two of the "silent treatment" afterwards. The problem is you can't win in a situation like that, unless you're the sort of person that can look at something not properly done for years afterwards and not let it bother you (I can't.............). Edited February 10, 2017 by JSHarris 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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