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Seized pump?


AliG

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1 minute ago, ProDave said:

Unplug the power cord from the pump and check with a couple of probes that it really is getting power.

 

That is one tool I don't have. Always a bit reticent to go sticking things in live electrics.

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Just now, AliG said:

 

Thanks, that could be it. I was trying to find mention of it in the instruction manual.

 

The probe is wired into the grey box along with the power, but I couldn't find anything to explain what they do.

 

Presumably if it is switched off and cools down then it would come back on.

 

The boiler is maybe turned up higher than it was last winter, it was just serviced.

Ahhhhh. 
IF, sir, you have turned out to be the worst system owner of 2020, and go around twiddling knobs, then you have just fallen on your own sword. 
STOP twiddling as you’ve made it unsafe. 

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Just now, AliG said:

 

That is one tool I don't have. Always a bit reticent to go sticking things in live electrics.

Turn the boiler back down, and watch the problem “magically” disappear. 
My 1 hour call it fee is one pint for each member. 
You may want to speak to the bank first thing ;)  

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Just now, Nickfromwales said:

Ahhhhh. 
IF, sir, you have turned out to be the worst system owner of 2020, and go around twiddling knobs, then you have just fallen on your own sword. 
STOP twiddling as you’ve made it unsafe. 

 

No, I haven't adjusted anything and I know how to set the flow temperature at the manifold.

 

The only difference that might cause it to be hotter than before as it was all fine then is if the guy who serviced the boiler a few weeks ago turned up the temperature on the boiler.

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Thanks guys, we might have cracked it.

 

When he serviced the boiler the guy turned it up to MAX. It was sitting at 80C.

 

I normally have it set closer to 60.

 

Let see if the manifold cools down and the pump magically fixes itself.

Edited by AliG
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1 minute ago, AliG said:

Thanks guys, we might have cracked it.

 

When he serviced the boiler the guy turned it up to MAX. It was sitting at 80C.

 

I normally have it set closer to 60.

 

Let see if the manifold cools down and the pump magically fixes itself.

6000 people need their beer. You’re not going ANYWHERE. ;)  

?????????????

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Maybe you can unclip the controller on the pump. This might let you access the shaft of the pump without draining the system, sometimes there is a screw cap covering the shaft, when you take this off some water drips out, but not a flood. Some of the pumps I have seen have a slot on the shaft, give it a couple of turns with a screwdriver to see if it is rotating freely.

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Thanks very much @Nickfromwales and everyone else.

 

When the pubs open up if you’re round my way I owe you all a drink.

 

Two things I have learned. 
 

Check your boiler after it gets serviced.

 

Those things that look like temperature probes in the manifolds will switch off your UFH if they get too hot.

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20 minutes ago, ProDave said:

But just because the boiler water was too hot, the output from the blending valve should not have been so hot.  I would question if the blending valve is faulty?

Good question.

 

We have 4 manifolds and this is the only one that hit the temperature cut off. There is no sign of exactly what level this is.

 

It might be that it is in a sealed cupboard in the constantly warm laundry room.

 

Looking at the weekly chart on the Heatmiser, I think the heating was coming on in the mornings, but not at night if the room cooled down. It might just be that after  it ran for a while the cupboard got hot and pushed up the temperature a little bit more at the probe than on the other manifolds.

 

Certainly the temp fell when I turned the mixer valve down. I will check it again in the morning.

 

The boiler is now sitting at 68C, no point setting it much higher than the hot water temperature. I think that is roughly where it was set before.

 

I spent ages setting up all the manifolds two winters ago as depending on whether rooms have wooden or tiled floors and how much sun they get I found I needed quite different flow temperatures to heat them up in an acceptable time. The idea was that rooms should warm up at the same rate. It was all working quite nicely.

 

Edited by AliG
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Good morning everyone.

 

The saga continues -

 

11 hours ago, ProDave said:

But just because the boiler water was too hot, the output from the blending valve should not have been so hot.  I would question if the blending valve is faulty?

 

We already had one of the mixer valves play up and be replaced around a year ago.

 

This one may be having a similar issue.

 

The mixer valve has been set at two for two years. Set at two last night, no water flowed through the manifold.

 

I had to turn it up to 3.5/4 before the water flowed. But then the temperature in the manifold passed 48C which seems to be the safety cut off.

 

The manifold is also quite noisy, when the mixer valve does open up there is a lot of bubbling etc.

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