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Shower leaking

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Sorry I'm a bit late to this party @newhome, has been a bloody long day....

The rubber seals work well, but do NOT overtighten them ;)  Less is more here.

 

Do not try to fully tighten one up before starting the other on the thread, so basically they need to be hand-tightened one turn at a time alternating sides until you cannot turn them by hand any more. Pinch them up with those grips / adjustable spanner, and when it becomes an effort to swing the spanner you are done. The spanner will not chew the chrome up as badly as the grips will. You can pinch it up as described and go turn on the water, see if it's 'all good in da hood', and if not just pinch and repeat until happy ( switch the water off each time so you're not fighting the tide ).  Just turn the stopcock until you hear water flowing vs opening it fully for testing so if the shit hits the fan you have only allowed a trickle rate for damage limitation.

 

Not much to go wrong here ( lol ) so should be job done and back on the Voddy's by noon  :) 

 

 

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    The isolation valves pictured are in @Ferdinandhouse so I doubt they will stop much water coming out of @newhomes shower.   If the shower doesn't have isolators which is more than likely you

  • He is prime suspect.  He touched it last.

  • Actually it was @Nickfromwales...   And it probably leaks less than your walk on glazing .... 

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I tend to put a small smear of Vaseline on rubber washers to let them slide up tight and not “grab” the rubber.

12 hours ago, joe90 said:

I tend to put a small smear of Vaseline on rubber washers to let them slide up tight and not “grab” the rubber.

Double edged sword, as most rubber seals need the friction to stop the washer from slipping, rolling up, and falling into the centre bore of the fitting. 
I never put anything on a rubber seal ?

Edited by Nickfromwales

  • Author

All done ? (well it’s not leaking which I guess is a good sign ....) 

 

1A5F09E4-05F2-4949-8F0A-4765610F3582.thumb.jpeg.62d1e93f3bf7dd96cba367e2bc65b7f4.jpeg

 

Had more trouble fitting the end controls than the bar itself. I couldn’t fit the trim bits as there wasn’t enough pipe exposed to screw it into with those fitted  but I guess I can get some flatter ones later if I want to. 
 

Managed to do it easily with the gripper and a cloth.

Will try it out properly later and see if it’s working ok. 

 
Thanks for all the help! Just one more question - do I need to turn the stopcock on until it doesn’t turn anymore? I’ve turned it on a lot but not as far as it will go. 
 

11 minutes ago, newhome said:

All done ? (well it’s not leaking which I guess is a good sign ....) 

 

1A5F09E4-05F2-4949-8F0A-4765610F3582.thumb.jpeg.62d1e93f3bf7dd96cba367e2bc65b7f4.jpeg

 

Had more trouble fitting the end controls than the bar itself. I couldn’t fit the trim bits as there wasn’t enough pipe exposed to screw it into with those fitted  but I guess I can get some flatter ones later if I want to. 
 

Managed to do it easily with the gripper and a cloth.

Will try it out properly later and see if it’s working ok. 

 
Thanks for all the help! Just one more question - do I need to turn the stopcock on until it doesn’t turn anymore? I’ve turned it on a lot but not as far as it will go. 
 

Open fully then close half a turn or so.

  • Author

The original would have been around 2010 I think. The replacement maybe a year or two later than that. 

4 hours ago, newhome said:

All done ? (well it’s not leaking which I guess is a good sign ....) 


well done, we shall soon be asking you how to mend things!,!!!

  • Author
1 hour ago, joe90 said:


well done, we shall soon be asking you how to mend things!,!!!


God I doubt it! I’m bloody hopeless at anything practical. I’ll stick to reading VAT tribunal reports and the like lol. 
 

2 minutes ago, newhome said:

I’m bloody hopeless at anything practical.


well, I beg to differ, you did this didn’t you, small beginnings eh?

  • Author
37 minutes ago, joe90 said:


well, I beg to differ, you did this didn’t you, small beginnings eh?


Well there are a few more plumbing jobs that need to be done, although not urgent things leaking water, so maybe I’ll pluck up the courage to do some of them now .... ! 
 

I’ve used the shower to check it out and it all seems good although it’s fiercer than the old one. Not sure why that is. 

1 minute ago, newhome said:

it’s fiercer than the old one. Not sure why that is. 


No two shower mixers are the same, also the old one may have “crud” In it.

3 hours ago, newhome said:


Well there are a few more plumbing jobs that need to be done, although not urgent things leaking water, so maybe I’ll pluck up the courage to do some of them now .... ! 
 

I’ve used the shower to check it out and it all seems good although it’s fiercer than the old one. Not sure why that is. 

 

Perhaps lack of crud.

 

(I'm the stereo speaker.)

Original one was a cheapo-sack-o-shit, new one is a tidy Triton, hence the better flow rate. Adjust the shower head itself maybe for a spray vs jet ? The heads usually rotate to change settings ( the actual head where the water sprays from.

15 hours ago, newhome said:

I’m bloody hopeless at anything practical.

Above triumph says otherwise ;) 

  • Author
On 24/10/2020 at 11:14, Nickfromwales said:

Adjust the shower head itself maybe for a spray vs jet ?


I quite like a fierce one ?. 

 

Onto the next job. Is changing a tower shower something I could do myself? Or is that a whole different ballgame? The thermostat is screwed and there are no spare parts for it. So I need a new one (a decent one as it’s for my en-suite). 
 

Easy enough if you’re doing a like for like swap, but really it’s a 4 hands or 2 people job. 
The pipe connections will be fixed poking out of the wall facing up. Then the unit has its own supplied flexis which simply screw on ( 1/2” bsp ) and then the shower, most likely will have side fixings ( screw / Allen head ) and the shower prob hooks onto a top bracket ( which you can’t see ) and then gets held in place by said fixings. They’re fitted a bit like hanging a picture, so gravity bracket to free you up, and then fixings to keep it steady. 

Edited by Nickfromwales

  • Author
3 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Easy enough if you’re doing a like for like swap,


Thanks.
 

It can’t be like for like as it’s discontinued which is why I can’t just get a new thermostat. What I need is something that doesn’t need any ‘real’ plumbing and will be big enough to cover any existing holes in the tiles. If such a thing exists. 

21 minutes ago, newhome said:


Thanks.
 

It can’t be like for like as it’s discontinued which is why I can’t just get a new thermostat. What I need is something that doesn’t need any ‘real’ plumbing and will be big enough to cover any existing holes in the tiles. If such a thing exists. 

They’re all much of a muchness. You may have to remove that one to see what you’re up against. Then ask manufacturers for the schematic of the new one to see if there will be any conflict. 
If so....voddy up, hammer out ?

  • Author
10 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

You may have to remove that one to see what you’re up against.


How do I go about that then? Does the cover lift off somehow? 

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