Does anyone have photos of their under-sink plumbing (of course you do) that you wouldn't mind sharing (maybe not)? I'm looking for inspiration as to how to lay things out...

 

For what it's worth I've got a 1.5 bowl sink, mixer tap and dishwasher to cater for. My supply and waste pipes will be coming in from one side too. Your setup doesn't need to match though - I can cherry pick interesting features from anything I'm sure.

In case there's any doubt, this isn't quite what I had in mind...

 

Edited September 30, 20206 yr by MJNewton

Thats pretty cool though.....

 

No pics from me here. But remember get a trap with an air admittance trap to stop the gurgling noise. Also mcalpine are generally very good traps, don't get cheap ones. 

47 minutes ago, SuperJohnG said:

No pics from me here. But remember get a trap with an air admittance trap to stop the gurgling noise. Also mcalpine are generally very good traps, don't get cheap ones. 

 

I've already bought a McAlpine space saver kit (it does seem good quality as you say) which I thought looked useful as it shifts most of the pipework to the back to allow more storage space within the cupboard. No AAV on the trap though...

 

 

Perhaps one could be added to the centre spigot if required? That said, I'm not sure I've had gurgling issues before (elsewhere in the house I mean - this is a new kitchen in a new room), and this pipe run to the soil stack is fairly short so might that also help?

Edited October 1, 20206 yr by MJNewton

The McAlpine anti siphon trap I bought sat too high so I bought a telescopic, non anti siphon one and made a telescopic anti siphon trap:

 

 

 

& two become one:

 

 

Looks like you could change that lower elbow and fit the anti siphon type.

Edited October 1, 20206 yr by Onoff

Kitchen sink waste.

 

 

 

Utility sink wast.  This one I was a little creative to get the trap out of the way to save cutting a massive hole in the shelf.

 

 

2 hours ago, Onoff said:

Looks like you could change that lower elbow and fit the anti siphon type.

 

That looks like a neat idea, and could make installation slightly easier as it'd give a vertical adjustment below the manifold in addition to those above it if I too changed the whole trap. 

Edited October 1, 20206 yr by MJNewton

5 minutes ago, ProDave said:

This one I was a little creative to get the trap out of the way to save cutting a massive hole in the shelf.

 

I note you've used telescopic components too - I can see that they're really useful to enabling a neat installation lining everything up just where you want it. 

This is ours warts and all.

 

I deliberated for some time on how to do this.

 

22mm to start which feeds first appliance T and then kitchen tap before dropping to 15mm to head to the bathrooms and boiler. We have very good water pressure/flow rate and it works a treat. Benefit of keeping it up at 22mm until past the kitchen tap (and washing machine as it is on the first T) is that there is nearly no noticeable drop in flow when the kitchen tap is on while water is being used in bathrooms. 

 

I also settled for nothing less then soldered and radiused copper.

 

On the waste the run to the 110mm pipe is in 50mm, the first T is 50mm where it reduces to 40mm to each trap totally separately, both sinks can drain at top speed this way and if there was a trap blockage in one it means the other side is still active.

 

This was yet to be fully clipped. Unsupported pipework is a bugbear of mine.

Edited October 1, 20206 yr by Carrerahill

15 minutes ago, PeterStarck said:

This is ours warts and all.

 

Looks perfectly functional to me!

 

You've reminded me that modern appliances seem to always come with anti-flood hoses so I must make sure I'm not too tight for space to accommodate them. Do you/anyone know if orientation matters?

3 minutes ago, MJNewton said:

Do you/anyone know if orientation matters?

IIRC ours had to go a certain way up.

2 minutes ago, PeterStarck said:

IIRC ours had to go a certain way up.

 

I thought there might be, although the manual for our proposed dishwasher doesn't mention it (but I'm sure I'd read elsewhere it does). Whilst having it downwards facing (like yours) would make things a little more difficult for me it'd be playing it safe just in case and it won't become any easier to do this than right now.

Edited October 1, 20206 yr by MJNewton

13 minutes ago, Carrerahill said:

I also settled for nothing less then soldered and radiused copper.

 

I must admit I do most (well, all!) plumbing in pushfit but I did a bit of copper and soldering in the last house and just about got on with it. I'm tempted to make a soldered up manifold outside the cupboard and then mount that inside and connect everything up. Thing is I haven't got a blowtorch anymore (lent it to someone... grrr) so that'd be an additional expense that I might not have need to use again. My backup was still to use copper but use compression fittings which many of the components would be anyway (eg isolation valves) so might still look okay.

Edited October 1, 20206 yr by MJNewton

This is what I do. 

50mm waste rising vertically from 110mm fW directly underneath, with 110x50mm bung. 

50mm T with an access cap on the top to rod the lot, and then the side of the T picks up the duties.

If the FW run isn’t direct to an external inspection chamber or is T’d into by another 110mm, eg underground, then the second ( internal ) means of rodding access will be a B-Regs requirement   

If doing wastes from scratch and not using g the supplied generic stuff I always put a washing machine upstand for the appliances so you don’t get the factory / obligatory gurgle which comes with putting the appliance on the inbuilt appliance waste connector ( as that is before the trap so the noise comes up though the waste / plug hole ? and into the room ). 

37 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

This is what I do. 

 

That's an interesting manifold setup - looks very 'continental'! (Is it Ikea?) The flexible pipe looks handy for routing, and I can only assume it is not at the same risk of blockages that such things on a toilet waste are given it being smoother (and a different type of waste material... with apologies to those reading this over lunch).

1 hour ago, MJNewton said:

 

 

 

You've reminded me that modern appliances seem to always come with anti-flood hoses so I must make sure I'm not too tight for space to accommodate them. Do you/anyone know if orientation matters?

 

The Miele in Peter's photo has the inlet solenoid valve in the grey bit, and orientation doesn't matter IME.  Other brands can use an excess-flow "waterstop" which may be a bit more sensitive.

37 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

If doing wastes from scratch and not using g the supplied generic stuff I always put a washing machine upstand for the appliances so you don’t get the factory / obligatory gurgle which comes with putting the appliance on the inbuilt appliance waste connector ( as that is before the trap so the noise comes up though the waste / plug hole ? and into the room ). 

 

For some reason I've always had this idea that an open upstand might be at risk if causing a flood if there's a downstream blockage... but then probably no more so that a sealed connection to a pre-trap spigot as it'd go up through the sink hole anyway. I suppose you'd have a sink's worth of buffering before it overspilled on to the floor though.

2 minutes ago, dpmiller said:

 

The Miele in Peter's photo has the inlet solenoid valve in the grey bit, and orientation doesn't matter IME.  Other brands can use an excess-flow "waterstop" which may be a bit more sensitive.

 

Ah, I see. I didn't realise they'd moved the solenoid out of the machine.

 

I'll try and err on the side of caution I think and arrange for a downward facing connection to suit all requirements.