Does anyone have experience with this from the mesh company: https://themeshcompany.com/shop/wire-mesh/insect-proof-mesh/flyscreen-insect-vent-soffit-mesh-for-netting-and-cladding/?attribute_pa_insect-mesh=stainless-steel-304-grade-16-lpi-0-23mm-wire&attribute_pa_soffit-roll-size=30-metres-length-x-100mm-width-roll

26 minutes ago, junglejim said:

Does anyone have experience with this from the mesh company: https://themeshcompany.com/shop/wire-mesh/insect-proof-mesh/flyscreen-insect-vent-soffit-mesh-for-netting-and-cladding/?attribute_pa_insect-mesh=stainless-steel-304-grade-16-lpi-0-23mm-wire&attribute_pa_soffit-roll-size=30-metres-length-x-100mm-width-roll

 Yes, I used this mesh at the top of my cladding. Seems fine. 
 

Do you have a particular concern? I didn’t put much thought into this particular purchase. 
 

I also used it on my soffit vent strips. 

Edited December 18, 20241 yr by Nick Laslett

4 minutes ago, Nick Laslett said:

 Yes, I used this mesh at the top of my cladding. Seems fine. 
 

Do you have a particular concern? I didn’t put much thought into this particular product. 

No looks good to me but a few comments on Amazon suggested it might be thin and frayed when cut.

27 minutes ago, junglejim said:

No looks good to me but a few comments on Amazon suggested it might be thin and frayed when cut.

That's the stuff for the job. Thin is good so it folds round the battens reasonably neatly.  It does fray so doesn't want a lot of handling, but once cut, stapled and clad, it's not going to be a problem.  As @Russdl says, be prepared to to be spiked by it, even through gloves...

I used this recently it comes in marine grade and I found it cheaper. 
easy to cut and bend and well packaged.  Only used it on the gables so far from batten to bargeboard, whilst scaffold is still up

. 
 

https://www.robinsonwirecloth.co.uk/online-shop/Soffit-mesh-c12856839

53 minutes ago, Susie said:

I used this recently it comes in marine grade and I found it cheaper. 
easy to cut and bend and well packaged.  Only used it on the gables so far from batten to bargeboard, whilst scaffold is still up

. 
 

https://www.robinsonwirecloth.co.uk/online-shop/Soffit-mesh-c12856839

I have just finished cladding the garage and again used the Robinson Soffit Mesh top and bottom of timber.

You can get these as well https://www.southernsheeting.co.uk/perforated-closure-trim-ew1im.html?infinity=ict2~net~gaw~cmp~21101839195~ag~~ar~~kw~~mt~~acr~3674732697&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAgoq7BhBxEiwAVcW0LFI8eyXq9_6uDl014PtvtJ7qFV31XMfKguJE-vRY817PHC_OGLK9iBoCGCIQAvD_BwE#240=427

 

The soffit mesh looks good as well. But I used perforated sheets and cut them to my own length/width to suit, can't remember exact spec of gauge/hole size but stainlees and along these lines https://www.fhbrundle.co.uk/mesh/perforated-metal?via_sb=true

 

Whichever you choose I would look for something with some rigidity to it otherwise it will sag between fixings and also if its too light a guage the fixings like screws will dmage it hence why some have used staples.

5 hours ago, junglejim said:

might be thin and frayed when cut.

It is fragile if abused, otherwise will withstand normal conditions and the holes are tiny so nothing gets through.

I think it is best cut with strong scissors that don't have to go back in the kitchen drawer. The cut edge had best be folded back under or it may fray.

12 hours ago, JamesP said:

I have just finished cladding the garage and again used the Robinson Soffit Mesh top and bottom of timber.

Thanks @JamesP any photos of how you fixed the mesh?

9 hours ago, Tosh said:

You can get these as well https://www.southernsheeting.co.uk/perforated-closure-trim-ew1im.html?infinity=ict2~net~gaw~cmp~21101839195~ag~~ar~~kw~~mt~~acr~3674732697&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAgoq7BhBxEiwAVcW0LFI8eyXq9_6uDl014PtvtJ7qFV31XMfKguJE-vRY817PHC_OGLK9iBoCGCIQAvD_BwE#240=427

 

The soffit mesh looks good as well. But I used perforated sheets and cut them to my own length/width to suit, can't remember exact spec of gauge/hole size but stainlees and along these lines https://www.fhbrundle.co.uk/mesh/perforated-metal?via_sb=true

 

Whichever you choose I would look for something with some rigidity to it otherwise it will sag between fixings and also if its too light a guage the fixings like screws will dmage it hence why some have used staples.

Thanks. Yes the first link looks good… easier to install but struggling to see how to get the exact width when it’s only multiples of 10mm 🤷‍♂️… I must be misunderstanding something. 

9 hours ago, Tosh said:

You can get these as well https://www.southernsheeting.co.uk/perforated-closure-trim-ew1im.html?infinity=ict2~net~gaw~cmp~21101839195~ag~~ar~~kw~~mt~~acr~3674732697&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAgoq7BhBxEiwAVcW0LFI8eyXq9_6uDl014PtvtJ7qFV31XMfKguJE-vRY817PHC_OGLK9iBoCGCIQAvD_BwE#240=427

 

The soffit mesh looks good as well. But I used perforated sheets and cut them to my own length/width to suit, can't remember exact spec of gauge/hole size but stainlees and along these lines https://www.fhbrundle.co.uk/mesh/perforated-metal?via_sb=true

 

Whichever you choose I would look for something with some rigidity to it otherwise it will sag between fixings and also if its too light a guage the fixings like screws will dmage it hence why some have used staples.

Ps the angled trims look a lot more expensive.

13 hours ago, Roundtuit said:

That's the stuff for the job. Thin is good so it folds round the battens reasonably neatly.  It does fray so doesn't want a lot of handling, but once cut, stapled and clad, it's not going to be a problem.  As @Russdl says, be prepared to to be spiked by it, even through gloves...

Thanks for the tips. Did you find it stayed tight enough or is likely to sag and open up along the cladding face?

Thinking of getting a mixture of the stainless flexible mesh and this closure: https://weatherboardsupplies.co.uk/product/30mm-x-40mm-perforated-closure-2-5m/

 

any reason to go for one vs the other. I’d use the angled trims above and below battens and flexi mesh at other openings.

 

 Wondering if the difference in material is significant but clearly both made for the job.

 

 Really appreciating everyone’s insights and advice, thank you

@junglejim

A couple of poor quality photos enclosed, 2 from 2021 where  the vertical Cedar cladding meets the metal cladding and other horizontal cladding (garage) taken just now.

I was able to staple the mesh to the timber frame behind the breather membrane and then pull up the front of the batten in a u shape.

I had a fixed horizontal batten with a gap at the back for air to circulate between each vertical batten, to confuse you I had a counter batten for the vertical Cedar boards. Its clear in my head!!

I did the same at the top of the boards.

I used 150mm mesh.

On 18/12/2024 at 07:27, junglejim said:

@SuperJohnG just wondering you can advise on the cedral… I’m struggling to work out how the fixed dimension will close the gap accurately but probably missing something. For example they seem to come in multiples of 10 but if battens are 38mm or when double battening 38+25mm I’m not sure how this would work. Probably missing something obvious!?

 Thanks

You're only closing up one side really. I.e. the dimension of the mesh has to be less than the batten. So horizontally it slips over. Then vertically you just leave a gap between your top central board and the top that's smaller than your mesh dimension.