Onoff Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 Nerve touched! ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 In my defence I was a kitchen virgin: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 13 minutes ago, joe90 said: My dad also used to say “there is no right and wrong there is only opinion” I am sorry you think this is a cheat, I can assure you after years of fitting kitchens it was planned and yes I do think it looks nice (otherwise I would not have bothered with this detail) I am sorry you think mine is a bodge. The end panel is not “floating” it is firmly fixed. The worktop was cut, routed and sealed before fixing. I did not leave the decor panel big, it was ordered and made to my specifications. one of the reasons for not doing my worktop like yours is I have so often heard of people complaining that they have hit their hip bone on that very sharp corner, and again in my opinion an accident waiting to happen as a child catches their head on those sharp corners. Before fitting a kitchen I always attended with a kitchen planner from the supplier to give my opinion based on past experience with customers. yes I like mine ? I am sure you did plan it, but think of it this way, you need to cut the decor panel to fit it regardless, I wanted mine flush with the doors/drawers (as per all the display kitchens I looked at) and that then required that the worktop be edged in this position, so this created work for my joiner. Onoff suggests that is a cheating bodge, I don't see how that is, that is what I take issue with. So is this method a cheat? If it is then it's a long route for a shortcut. Regarding the term "bodge" I am just using OnOff's words, I was reversing what he said really, I cannot see how more work is a bodge. Your isolated cabinets within the decor panels looks fine, I don't really have any comment one way or another, I am really replying to OnOff and have no issue with your method or workmanship - in my kitchen I think it would be fair to say this method suit better. I understand that the panel is fixed, but it has been "floated out" is what I am saying and assuming you cut it to allow the plinth to run through cleanly then it leaves it "floating out". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 1 minute ago, Carrerahill said: I am sure you did plan it, but think of it this way, you need to cut the decor panel to fit it regardless, I wanted mine flush with the doors/drawers (as per all the display kitchens I looked at) and that then required that the worktop be edged in this position, so this created work for my joiner. Onoff suggests that is a cheating bodge, I don't see how that is, that is what I take issue with. So is this method a cheat? If it is then it's a long route for a shortcut. Regarding the term "bodge" I am just using OnOff's words, I was reversing what he said really, I cannot see how more work is a bodge. Your isolated cabinets within the decor panels looks fine, I don't really have any comment one way or another, I am really replying to OnOff and have no issue with your method or workmanship - in my kitchen I think it would be fair to say this method suit better. I understand that the panel is fixed, but it has been "floated out" is what I am saying and assuming you cut it to allow the plinth to run through cleanly then it leaves it "floating out". "Shortcut bodge" was the phrase used. Never did I use the word cheat. Anyway, your detail isn't to my taste or Joe's and @CC45's missus would divorce you over it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC45 Posted June 2, 2020 Author Share Posted June 2, 2020 I've showed her both - but she prefers the @joe90 version. Tend to agree with her but as said its all just opinion. Like a lot of things in self build, you worry a lot at the time but a few months later its all forgotten. Appeciate all the comments here. Being on my own doing these jobs I really appreciate the discussion. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 (edited) 13 minutes ago, CC45 said: I've showed her both - but she prefers the @joe90 version. Tend to agree with her but as said its all just opinion. Like a lot of things in self build, you worry a lot at the time but a few months later its all forgotten. Appeciate all the comments here. Being on my own doing these jobs I really appreciate the discussion. ? Your not comparing apples to apples though. If I did Joe90's version in that single location it would look stupid - his version bookends in some full height cabinets and I have said it works, I only have a decor panel there to finish off the side of the fridge freezer cabinet which abuts a worktop, further round I have 2 under-cabinet sections which bookend in the oven unit because the kitchen designer needed to find about 40mm so that I could have symmetry, so we opted to put a decor panel (you only see the front) either side of the oven cabinet which gave us 38mm - near enough. If I had these sticking out that would look stupid - so go and ask your missus if she would like two pieces of decor panel randomly sticking out next to an oven where it would end up a mess, and then ask her would she not want to see a matching detail throughout. I also have some wall cabinets which come to a finish so the hob area could be created, then restart after the hob, I wanted a gap for a glazed cooker-hood, so there are decor panels to the end of those, if I randomly had them sticking out 20mm longer than the cabinets, again, that would look odd and would have wreaked havoc with the pelmets. At the end of the day, I suggested our OP could edge that tiny little bit of worktop like I had done, and that would solve his issue and look smart. yet everyone has jumped on my back like the bloody sky fell down. You better let Wren and Magnet know they are wrong too. I'll just quietly observe from now on. Edited June 2, 2020 by Carrerahill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 (edited) THIS POST REMOVED: Duplicate, multi reply window open error type thing. Edited June 2, 2020 by Carrerahill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 57 minutes ago, Onoff said: Nerve touched! ? Skewered with a great big pointy stick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gone West Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 I was told it will be flush fronted. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 10 minutes ago, PeterStarck said: I was told it will be flush fronted. That's the CAD render. Photo of the finished article please. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 12 minutes ago, PeterStarck said: I was told it will be flush fronted. How it should be! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 13 minutes ago, PeterStarck said: I was told it will be flush fronted. That Wren J-pull? Looks the same as ours, we have Pebble Gray - yours looks like it could be the same or similar at least. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gone West Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 Yeah it's Wren, gloss white. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassanclan Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 I can appreciate the time and skill gone into @Carrerahill 's worktop, but it's not something I would ever do. If there wasn't room for a clad on end panel I would have had to replace the side panel of the tall cabinet/oven housing to avoid a bit of worktop jutting out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 The only way it's possible to avoid is to rip back of base units down or misalign them as like Joe90 pic if you have a worktop overhang on your doors. Peters photo has the worktop flush with the doors which looks good but might not if the doors didn't have the thin handleless edge at top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC45 Posted June 3, 2020 Author Share Posted June 3, 2020 Thanks to you ALL for taking time and effort to help me out here, I understand more now than I did - exactly what a forum is for. ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlb90 Posted November 13, 2021 Share Posted November 13, 2021 On 02/06/2020 at 10:01, joe90 said: Having fitted kitchens before ( I have 20.20 hindsight ?) I brought my vertical panels out as I don’t like the edge of the worktop sticking out. (Sorry this does not help you !). Sorry for resurecting an old thread but I am currently facing the same issue. I like @joe90s approach but I have a couple of concerns - firstly, the end panels sit proud of the tall unit, does this cause any issues with the doors hitting the end panels? Wouldn't it be better to bring the tall unit forwards ~20mm too? Second, what does the end panel look like where it meets the wall? my Kitchen supplier provides end panels 600mm (exactly the same as the worktop) so if the wall is not completely even, I could still end up with the worktop sitting too far forward. Do you fit the end panel slightly away from the wall in this situation +?caulk the gap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted November 13, 2021 Share Posted November 13, 2021 24 minutes ago, jlb90 said: the end panels sit proud of the tall unit, does this cause any issues with the doors hitting the end panels? Not sure what you mean ?♂️ Hinges allow doors to open within end panels usually. 24 minutes ago, jlb90 said: Second, what does the end panel look like where it meets the wall? Mine were the depth of the cupboards, you may have to trim to fit. Here is mine. (Ignore where my puppy chewed the new skirting ?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted November 13, 2021 Share Posted November 13, 2021 27 minutes ago, jlb90 said: Wouldn't it be better to bring the tall unit forwards ~20mm too? I didn’t think so and glad I didn’t, all doors on the same plane as with kickboard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gus Potter Posted November 13, 2021 Share Posted November 13, 2021 (edited) Hello jib90. 32 minutes ago, jlb90 said: Sorry for resurecting an old thread but I am currently facing the same issue Don't be.. each project is different. I like @joe90s approach but I have a couple of concerns - firstly, the end panels sit proud of the tall unit, does this cause any issues with the doors hitting the end panels? Generally no until the hinges get worn and the door opens more than 90 deg. Then you risk them prying against the end panel if it sticks too proud. Kids gets enthusiastic and throw the doors open.. teenagers worse when they are a "bit late home" Your starting point / review here is to take a few steps back. Where an how much space do you need behind the back of the carcase.. do you need to get any drain pipes and services hidden? If you have services then don't be tempted to cut a bit of the back of the base units. The more space you can generate behind the base units the easier life becomes. Next is just to check that you have the required clearances in front of say the oven and activity spaces.. if you need to get BC approval or just want to make sure you are not making any new kitchen less compliant. I can't see from the photo but sometimes you can just add another layer of plasterboard to the wall locally above the worktop if your side panel is not deep enough? Edited November 13, 2021 by Gus Potter typos.. was blaming my wirelesssss keyboard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted November 13, 2021 Share Posted November 13, 2021 8 minutes ago, Gus Potter said: The more space you can generate behind the base units the easier life becomes. I would agree, however this is dependant on the depth of the worktop and the overhang at the front you require (looks right). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gus Potter Posted November 13, 2021 Share Posted November 13, 2021 3 minutes ago, joe90 said: I would agree, however this is dependant on the depth of the worktop and the overhang at the front you require (looks right). Yes joe spot on. If you are on a budget and are constrained by a standard 600mm deep worktop then it is what is is. Sometimes you can.. if you are lucky with the layout just fudge it up by thickening the wall over the worktops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyT Posted November 13, 2021 Share Posted November 13, 2021 Or getting deeper worktops and cutting them down Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted November 13, 2021 Share Posted November 13, 2021 (edited) 24 minutes ago, Gus Potter said: constrained by a standard 600mm My Worktops came as 616mm over 585mm cabinets also 900mm worktops available as standard fir most. 20mm thick upstands are popular nowadays so gives more flexibility on worktop placement. Edited November 13, 2021 by joe90 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polish Builder Posted November 15, 2021 Share Posted November 15, 2021 easiest way would be any of high strength contact spray adhesive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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