Soundbloc PB job.

[Onoff]

 

 

[Onoff]

 

 

 

& yes, cut the rhs side to suit. Quickest way for all of us. So what if it's no longer a tapered edge before you ask!

Edited June 5, 2020 by Onoff
Life's too short!

[zoothorn]

Mods- perhaps we can remove the personal insult posts-?

 

@Onoff the scribing suggestions (your direct measure method not inc) are perfectly easily understood & done.. with a straight edge board. Not so easily with a TE board. Unless I'm mistaken.. in which case it would be kinder to explain how I'm wrong, rather than throws at insult me.

 

Is the TE board edge (IE opposite to the scribed edge) as far as I can see complicating the suggestions, not a reasonable point then?

 

Thanks.

[Onoff]

9 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Not so easily with a TE board.

 

How about actually trying it instead of thinking it can't be done on a tapered edge board? Just use a bigger disc to miss the tapered bit if you're that bothered.

[zoothorn]

" If you don't understand this you must be the thickest c*** ever! "

 

Aww.. thanks.

 

@Onoff look, your sketch is ace but doesn't include two factors: the board to the RHS of the one to scribe, is a full TE board & already in place. I asked about this & it was suggested I put the full boards in > then add the side offcuts.

 

The 2nd is the fact that my board to scribe is taper-edge (on its R edge), meaning I can't just scribe the wiggle-line on > & cut its R edge down to suit like I could a SE board. So I have to transfer the wiggle-line from where its drawn rightwards & by a precise ammount: far more difficult a prospect (& I havent established how yet) to a p'easy SE board. No?

 

 

 

Hence my Q. It is valid.

[zoothorn]

8 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

How about actually trying it instead of thinking it can't be done on a tapered edge board? Just use a bigger disc to miss the tapered bit if you're that bothered.

 

 

No you're not getting it- the LH taper edge (L side to scribe) is n/a.. because I have a ~40cm W piece here so the board will be cut off far before the taper this side.

 

Its the R taper edge I'm talking about, afaict that bodges up the scribe suggestions.

 

 

[andyscotland]

@zoothorn you can overlap the RHS and cut both sides (one straight one wiggly) as others have said, losing the tapered edge at the board joint (just means a bit more care to fill and sand that joint flush for painting).

 

Or if you find that hard to conceive do my cardboard template then you can just cut the wiggly edge the appropriate distance from the TE factory edge.

 

 

[zoothorn]

20 hours ago, andyscotland said:

@zoothorn you can overlap the RHS and cut both sides (one straight one wiggly) as others have said, losing the tapered edge at the board joint (just means a bit more care to fill and sand that joint flush for painting).

 

Or if you find that hard to conceive do my cardboard template then you can just cut the wiggly edge the appropriate distance from the TE factory edge.

 

 

 

Hi Andy,

 

yes I resorted to cutting RHS of board down (I've only -ever- found it difficult to conceive trying to do the wiggle L whilst still keeping the taper @ R: the wrong assumption was I couldn't understand how to do the L edge!). Its not a great join.. but will have to do.

 

The wiggle L went fine/ jigsawed, but the R edge was always the problem to get dead-on (especially having only 15mm of stud to hit: THIS is where I was stuck on!!).. & I couldn't in fact: its a bit of a mess here so will need attn later.

 

Thanks for help anyway chaps. zoot

 

 

Edited June 6, 2020 by zoothorn

[zoothorn]

The old wall with render on, LHS in 2nd pic/ one I joined wiggly scribed board onto.. is it feasable to sandblast this to reveal the stonework?

[Onoff]

37 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

The old wall with render on, LHS in 2nd pic/ one I joined wiggly scribed board onto.. is it feasable to sandblast this to reveal the stonework?

 

You mean the pitch black wall I can't see? ?

[ToughButterCup]

35 minutes ago, Onoff said:

You mean the pitch black wall I can't see? ?

 

But Gollum is notorious for his poor eyesight.....

[Mr Punter]

I have not really followed this thread but the boarding looks tidy.  Is it to be tape and jointed or skimmed?

[zoothorn]

On 08/06/2020 at 13:32, Onoff said:

 

You mean the pitch black wall I can't see? ?

 

Haha! only just seen this reply.

 

No I was referring to the pic just above your pitch black one! so in this pic ^ LHS of the window (not the french doors pic) I've scribed the pB to the old wall. You can see how inny-outy this old (white) wall is by the wibble of my scribble.

 

I wonder if this old wall face could have the slate stone revealed. Or maybe its a stupid idea. I guess proof's in the pud regarding how warm the room is once autumn hits, & therefore how feasable the idea is tho.

Edited June 18, 2020 by zoothorn

[zoothorn]

Anyway progressing.. very pleased with my ceiling: hiring a board lifter (£25) was fab/ even making the job enjoyable.

 

Walls trickier due to uneven studs, so I often have 2 boards joining with a 3-5mm discrepency all the way up, making filling (& esp sanding to somesort of flat, my next job) a real sod. Ceiling no issue as all joists level one to next.

 

 

 

Edited June 18, 2020 by zoothorn

[zoothorn]

What's the idea where 2 boards join in a corner? I noticed the paper join tape I have has a creace for 'corners'.. but if I have 2 straight edges joining here, what to do? presumably the tape's for 2 taper edges joining at a corner.

[zoothorn]

Can someone help me out on my corners? I assume my 2x window, 1x door, & french door reveals need plastic corner beading > feather-filling. I have googled & seen clips but the info I need is not apparant.

 

Is this the only way to finish my corners for taper-edge boards?

 

Can metal corner beading be used?

 

What are the options for attatching it to the pB?

 

Are some beadings specifically for taper-edge drywall finishing (a graded/ feather fill from the pB surface > to corner bead point)?

 

Ive done before in kitchen, but alot of pink grip mess.. & frustratingly I can't get the beading I used, which seemed ideal (nice & thin). So I'm not sure if I chanced upon ideal beading for my non-skimmed pB walls, whether it was specifically designed for it/ if any are specifically for it.

 

Thanks zoot

[zoothorn]

@PeterW or @Onoff I'm having a real sod of a job on my reveal corner beading.. Onoff I think this is your forte-?

 

When I did the kitchen I nipped off one bead 'leg' (tiled inside of reveal) so only needed plastering on the wall. Here I have both the wall & the inside of reveal to plaster, 6 areas in total, for two windows.. & two doors.. & its totally daunting. Ive had a go/ made a (bad) but start its the 1st job that's properly defeating me.

 

I cannot get the same beading as kitchen. This was thin, &, the bead fairly big = an easy task to feather-plaster it. Here I have thicker bead 'legs' & a less prominent bead = an absolute sod to plaster & not show either the bead &/ or the orange scrim tape stuff showing thru (I spent ages determining tape was the best way to fix: the pink gubbins I used in kitchen was awful to use as a fix, a total mess due to latticed plastc etc).

 

Ive seen clips, but they're such pro's & all are eg's of wall edges.. window reveals are pesky areas to get into, esp the upside down bit.

 

Any tips/ advice? thx zooter schmoot.

[Onoff]

Try tiny panel pins to tack the bead on if you can't get on with adhesive. 

 

You need to get the face of the bead proud of the main face of the pb say by 3mm. So your tape etc is hidden within the 3mm depth. 

 

Or just stop and get the bead you used before. You're not tiling this so it will be more noticeable.

 

Wrong bead for your application maybe? What is it / where from?

 

 

 

[zoothorn]

1 hour ago, Onoff said:

Try tiny panel pins to tack the bead on if you can't get on with adhesive. 

 

You need to get the face of the bead proud of the main face of the pb say by 3mm. So your tape etc is hidden within the 3mm depth. 

 

Or just stop and get the bead you used before. You're not tiling this so it will be more noticeable.

 

Wrong bead for your application maybe? What is it / where from?

 

 

 

 

I spent ages choosing the nearest I had before (cannot get it.. or i can, but a 90m trip to screwfix newtown/ too dear).

 

Its this https://www.toolstation.com/pvcu-drywall-corner-bead/p99021 & spent ages on how to fix it, scrim tape sounded best.. but adds a fraction of a mm to 'leg' thickness I could do without/ struggle is here.. & the beady bit is shallow.

 

Not understanding 'face of the bead' (looked with a magnifying glass, but cant see any little face) & the lifting 3mm idea. Not quite getting what your referring to.

 

 

[Onoff]

Copper panel pins ideally as they don't rust and show through. Guess ordinary ones would be ok with a dab of paint on the heads.

 

Use a couple of blue 3mm packs under a straight edge to get the "3mm off" to start with.

 

 

Basically push the bead, from the right, up to the packed straight edge and pin.

 

Do in a few places. 

 

Use a long level to check plumb.

 

Then put the packed straight edge on the right wall, push the bead up to from the left and pin.

 

 

You can back the pinned bead up with smears of No Nails etc before finishing.

[zoothorn]

@Onoff great idea, all understood Onoff thanks.. sketches ace. I will try this tmrw. i was thinking maybe put s'thing inside the bead corner as a lift-off packer.. but pB edges so soft (esp here/ recent moisture making it crumbly almost) I dont think so now. Copper pins have a sticky outy head.. but got panel pins: only Q is tapping into the pB as some of its a bit fallible. should be ok.

 

Its just the issue with a pliable placcy beading moving when I do your idea, but maybe 2x passes 1st to 'lock' the beading in place perhaps.

 

I can practise 1st on ground room being a workshop.. but want to get upstairs 'decent' but doesn't need to be 'super-pro' (as if I could..).

 

I also only have my 10" taper-join flat metal whatnot to do it, don't have a specific plasterers' whatnot. Has flex tho, if I can get the damn technique mind you..

[jfb]

I'd just fix the beading with plasterboard screws.

[zoothorn]

10 hours ago, jfb said:

I'd just fix the beading with plasterboard screws.

 

jfb but that would mean the heads would sit at best 2-3mm proud, & at the leg end of the beading.. which is what I don't want surely.

 

I'm struggling with the beadings 1.5mm thickness + low 'bead' , hence Onoff's suggestion of raising the bead & using as-flat-as-poss fixing method (even copper hardboard pins n/g as their heads are a 1mm proud point).

 

Ive got my fixing method.. & assuming workable,  its now actually how to spread the mud on is my problem. Vertical corners & a flat 10" taper spreader thing = very tricky, for me.

 

What I dont get, is how my existing pB (old 80's?) corners & reveals have been done. There's no plaster afaict, just pB.. but the corners are perfect without a hint they've been taper-done at the peripheries like I'm trying to do. They're flat as a pancake.

[Onoff]

Metal corner tape maybe?

 

 

https://www.toolstation.com/plasterboard-corner-tape/p10867?

[PeterW]

43 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

 

jfb but that would mean the heads would sit at best 2-3mm proud, & at the leg end of the beading.. which is what I don't want surely.

 

I'm struggling with the beadings 1.5mm thickness + low 'bead' , hence Onoff's suggestion of raising the bead & using as-flat-as-poss fixing method (even copper hardboard pins n/g as their heads are a 1mm proud point).

 

Ive got my fixing method.. & assuming workable,  its now actually how to spread the mud on is my problem. Vertical corners & a flat 10" taper spreader thing = very tricky, for me.

 

What I dont get, is how my existing pB (old 80's?) corners & reveals have been done. There's no plaster afaict, just pB.. but the corners are perfect without a hint they've been taper-done at the peripheries like I'm trying to do. They're flat as a pancake.

 

Sure they haven't been skimmed..?? Put a magnet on the corner and see if it sticks.

 

You can get paper tape with a metal edge to it - fold and stick

Edited June 22, 2020 by PeterW
crossed with Onoff