PeterW Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 1 minute ago, AnonymousBosch said: Wot, each section (pipe) ? .... bloody hell. yep you can get 1.5 degrees of misalignment in a joint either side of centre, so taking the tangent on a 3m pipe (or effectively 2880mm when inserted into a socket) then you get 75.4mm angular deflection in any plane. So an 8002mm, minus 240mm would be 203.23mm movement ...... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted April 23, 2020 Author Share Posted April 23, 2020 @PeterW, wots the craik with the 11 and 22 degree bends? Do I just make the same bodge up out of those? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 41 minutes ago, AnonymousBosch said: @PeterW, wots the craik with the 11 and 22 degree bends? Do I just make the same bodge up out of those? Yep - that should allow you to move it where you need to. also, all your pipe work is currently not bedded - can you bed it to lift the pipe join level ..?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted April 23, 2020 Author Share Posted April 23, 2020 Yes. I will start bedding stuff in tomorrow. Haven't got 11s and 22s but I will sort that pronto. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 59 minutes ago, PeterW said: yep you can get 1.5 degrees of misalignment in a joint either side of centre, so taking the tangent on a 3m pipe (or effectively 2880mm when inserted into a socket) then you get 75.4mm angular deflection in any plane. So an 8002mm, minus 240mm would be 203.23mm movement ...... Plus you can bend the pipe a little over a 3M length to get a few mm more if needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted April 23, 2020 Author Share Posted April 23, 2020 1 hour ago, ProDave said: Plus you can bend the pipe a little over a 3M length to get a few mm more if needed. Wha? Bend a polypipe? You Charlie Atlas or summat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFDIY Posted April 24, 2020 Share Posted April 24, 2020 (edited) @AnonymousBoschHere's how I'd do it. Single socket 45's straight into chamber on exit and toilet make it rod-able. Swept bend or several 30's make shower rod-able too. Toilet has main run so solids won't get stuck. Edited April 24, 2020 by JFDIY 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted April 24, 2020 Author Share Posted April 24, 2020 Thank you very much @JFDIY. Its very kind of you to lay out one way of sorting out my loo and shower drains. I am only just discovering the joys of making your own foul drainage runs. And playing with 45s, 30s , 22s and 11s is a pleasure that I have never had until today. It's a bit like playing with your grandchildrens' transformer toys. Just for fun, I had a go at making a loop out of all my corners : well, it is Friday after all. I take the point about the loo being on the main run : it makes emminent good sense to do that. You have taught me to look a bit harder at the layout of the base of the I/C. I'll remember that for next time. The complication of needing to add another run to that I/C (at a later date) and having to hand dig in what is now rock hard clay means I'll stick with the piping layout that we currrently have. But thanks all the same. Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LA3222 Posted April 24, 2020 Share Posted April 24, 2020 On 23/04/2020 at 11:14, epsilonGreedy said: Yes to a bend at the main exit. If the main entrance port is 12'o clock then the shower could come in on the 10:30 port. I thought all of this was broadly accepted best practice, maybe I read too many docs. That's what I thought too. I can attest to the "splat" you get by coming in at a side connection. I have connected my static to a side branch as I positioned the IC for the house - I have to periodically rinse it with a hose as the inevitable happens and solids splash over the sides! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted April 24, 2020 Author Share Posted April 24, 2020 On 23/04/2020 at 14:36, PeterW said: Yes they (grey pipes) aren't certified for underground [...] said the man..... well I wasn't to know that grey stuff wasn't certified was I? So I grabbed some 11s and 22s ( BM open FGS!!!!!) and My god, spraying silicone (sorry, KY) on three piping corners and then trying to twist them to the right shape is like Turkish oil wrestling. Ya cant get yer hand to grip anywhere. Those pipe straps worked a treat. Now, how do I test this little branch of my system? I can't block the inside of the I/C can I? (Normal stoppers are too big) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epsilonGreedy Posted April 24, 2020 Share Posted April 24, 2020 On 23/04/2020 at 15:33, ProDave said: Can you do a sketch of what you are proposing please as I just can't understand how it can be anything other than how it is. The photo example using plastic components uploaded by @JFDIYis exactly as I was suggesting though I suspect the helta skelta fiddle on the shower drain could also be eliminated because the different invert levels of the main run through the IC compared to the branch entrances would also fix @AnonymousBosch's height problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted April 24, 2020 Author Share Posted April 24, 2020 Thanks for the thought @epsilonGreedy Have another look at this image .... The yellow dot represents another connection running vertical at that position (as yet not fitted) coming from the roof of the piggery, a washing machine and small sink. (sanctioned by the BCO) The piggery is to be used as a laundry. The arrangement agreed with the BCO is that the swept 135 (posted above) should provide for a roddable line which enters the as yet blanked off end of the 135 - as well as an outlet for the shower. Cats and skinning comes to mind. As well as digging by hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epsilonGreedy Posted April 24, 2020 Share Posted April 24, 2020 On 23/04/2020 at 15:36, AnonymousBosch said: I think @epsilonGreedy has implicitly accepted that the I/C is correctly orientated as is.....? My advice was sound as subsequent posts explain. As a minimum you should adopt @PeterW's halfway plan correction and come in via the intermediate branch with a 45 degree bend just prior to the IC entry. It seems a shame to hardwire an intermittent sewage problem into your new build for the sake of an extra bit of digging to reprofile your trenches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFDIY Posted April 24, 2020 Share Posted April 24, 2020 Forgot about the piggary, but that could use another branch entirely again with a 45 straight from chamber again to make it rod-able, two pipes (piggary + shower) then run parallel for a short section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted April 24, 2020 Share Posted April 24, 2020 1 hour ago, AnonymousBosch said: Now, how do I test this little branch of my system? I can't block the inside of the I/C can I? (Normal stoppers are too big) You put your hand up the outlets inside the IC until you reach the actual pipe and put the stopper in the end of the actual bit of pipe. Assuming your IC risers and lid have seals, you could assemble them with the lid on and test the whole lot in one go. I did that with the BC man watching to prove the outside drain runs. I was surprised the IC risers and lids sealed so well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epsilonGreedy Posted April 24, 2020 Share Posted April 24, 2020 33 minutes ago, AnonymousBosch said: The yellow dot represents another connection running vertical at that position (as yet not fitted) coming from the roof of the piggery, a washing machine and small sink. (sanctioned by the BCO) The piggery is to be used as a laundry. The arrangement agreed with the BCO is that the swept 135 (posted above) should provide for a roddable line which enters the as yet blanked off end of the 135 - as well as an outlet for the shower. I am assuming the piggery will be built where the photographer is standing in that photo? Is the intention to fix the rodding point (probably metal) within the internal floor of the piggery/laundry? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted April 24, 2020 Author Share Posted April 24, 2020 3 hours ago, epsilonGreedy said: I am assuming the piggery will be built where the photographer is standing in that photo? Is the intention to fix the rodding point (probably metal) within the internal floor of the piggery/laundry? Exactly right. And wrong. The rodding point will be exactly where the yellow spot is..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted April 24, 2020 Author Share Posted April 24, 2020 3 hours ago, ProDave said: You put your hand up the outlets inside the IC until you reach the actual pipe and put the stopper in the end of the actual bit of pipe. [...] You sure thats not illegal ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now