RDodds89 Posted April 20, 2020 Share Posted April 20, 2020 So just trying to build up a plan for everything and costing.... If I was going to be building a timber lodge on a block and joists(so crawl space under), how would I prepare that for underfloor heating? What do I need under it & what types of flooring can I put on top? If well enough insulated, Would I need it in every room? Bedrooms? The only UF heating I’ve dealt with is an electric mat under my bathroom tiles at the moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted April 20, 2020 Share Posted April 20, 2020 Do you mean (concrete) beam and block floor or timber joist suspended floor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDodds89 Posted April 20, 2020 Author Share Posted April 20, 2020 Timber joist suspended Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted April 20, 2020 Share Posted April 20, 2020 Plenty of insulation, i.e. thick joists. Mine are 300mm I beam joists with 300mm of Frametherm 35 insulation. I over boarded with OSB, then battens following the joists, and UFH pipes is a biscuit mix, then engineered Oak floor. In the hall and utility room I laid chipboard then ply and slate tiles. Some people prefer aluminium spreader plates rather than biscuit mix. If you intend biscuit mix make sure the joists are sized for the extra dead load. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDodds89 Posted April 20, 2020 Author Share Posted April 20, 2020 Did you lay the engineered oak direct on top of biscuit mix? I intended on using 8x2 c24 for joists, then pack them with kingspan or similar and 18mm ply or osb. What size of battens are you using to put the pipe on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted April 20, 2020 Share Posted April 20, 2020 28 minutes ago, RDodds89 said: Did you lay the engineered oak direct on top of biscuit mix? I intended on using 8x2 c24 for joists, then pack them with kingspan or similar and 18mm ply or osb. What size of battens are you using to put the pipe on? Yes the wood floor directly over the screed as in picture one, but the weight is not taken by the screed, rather by the battens. Battens are 25mm by 50mm. It needs to be a structural floor that can span your joist spacing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDodds89 Posted April 20, 2020 Author Share Posted April 20, 2020 Ah so the boards need to be able to span the 600mm spacing, well the gap between the 50mm boards. Aw I see now, the blue strips are the battens Ha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted April 20, 2020 Share Posted April 20, 2020 51 minutes ago, RDodds89 said: Ah so the boards need to be able to span the 600mm spacing, well the gap between the 50mm boards. Aw I see now, the blue strips are the battens Ha You would probably move your joists closer together to carry the load so probably 400mm centres. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted April 20, 2020 Share Posted April 20, 2020 Sorry if I misled you, my ground floor joists are on 400mm centres. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDodds89 Posted April 20, 2020 Author Share Posted April 20, 2020 21 minutes ago, ProDave said: Sorry if I misled you, my ground floor joists are on 400mm centres. Ah you didn’t, I was just under impression 600mm was the norm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted April 20, 2020 Share Posted April 20, 2020 Just for info.. Engineered boards are usually either 14mm or 18-21mm. I think the 14mm is only recommended over concrete floors. Think building regs require 18mm+ on joists. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted April 20, 2020 Share Posted April 20, 2020 Yes, my engineered boards are 20mm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialuser Posted April 21, 2020 Share Posted April 21, 2020 21 hours ago, ProDave said: Plenty of insulation, i.e. thick joists. Mine are 300mm I beam joists with 300mm of Frametherm 35 insulation. I over boarded with OSB, then battens following the joists, and UFH pipes is a biscuit mix, then engineered Oak floor. In the hall and utility room I laid chipboard then ply and slate tiles. Some people prefer aluminium spreader plates rather than biscuit mix. If you intend biscuit mix make sure the joists are sized for the extra dead load. Please could I ask the details of that engineered floor, and if it's not too cheeky, the price per M, and the supplier. Really like it. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted April 21, 2020 Share Posted April 21, 2020 11 minutes ago, trialuser said: Please could I ask the details of that engineered floor, and if it's not too cheeky, the price per M, and the supplier. Really like it. Thanks. JJI I beam engineered joists. Size specified by the structural engineer to suit the span and loading, in this case a 5 metre span. They were about 300mm deep and laid at 400mm centres. I don't have the costs to hand as they were supplied and fitted by the builders that put the frame up so it just got lumped into one of their invoices. I laid strips of OSB in the bottom of the I to form a platform to support the insulation. Filled the void with 300mm of frametherm 35, then a sheet of DPM as an air tight layer, then an OSB deck to support the UFH with battens following the joists to support the final floor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialuser Posted April 21, 2020 Share Posted April 21, 2020 LOL, thanks. Actually I meant the engineered wood floorboards ? Although the details of the makeup are interesting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted April 21, 2020 Share Posted April 21, 2020 The engineered boards were 20mm thick. I forget what span they were rated for but definitely okay for 400mm centres. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialuser Posted April 21, 2020 Share Posted April 21, 2020 cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted April 22, 2020 Share Posted April 22, 2020 Ours looks similar to @ProDave. We got it pretreated with Osmo hardwax oil from Woods of Wales. http://www.woodsofwales.co.uk/ . That was about 12 years ago so our prices are too out of date. Do shop around. I picked up a lot of samples at the self build shows. All looked good at the show but when I got them home in the sun/natural light several looked very different, one or two were practically orange. Quite surprised. Some places grade it from Rustic to Clear depending on how many knots there are. We prefer something in the middle, clear is more expensive and looks too characterless in my opinion. If you are gluing the T&G make sure to use plenty. I recommend using a brush not just running the nozzle down the groove. Will help stop creaking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialuser Posted April 22, 2020 Share Posted April 22, 2020 Thanks :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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