Pocster Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 Ok . I had to glue 4 joints all at once to get this to fit . Tried it dry was tricky anyway . Given I have about 30 seconds top I did ok - but some of the joints aren’t as tight as they should be . Is this ‘ok ‘ ? . Will water test in 30 mins . Assume some CT1 around all joints would do no harm . Second lesser issue . The thicker 50mm white pipe was going to be my AAV run that I wanted to boss strap after the toilet ( end of the drain ) . Can’t see how I can do that now . I can fit it after the toilet ( but before anything else ) - is this likely to cause issues ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 How about some PVC gap filler wiped round with a gloved finger into the joints you're concerned about? Might be a bit messy but so what. https://www.tradingdepot.co.uk/polypipe-gap-filling-cement-gfc100 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 5 minutes ago, Onoff said: How about some PVC gap filler wiped round with a gloved finger into the joints you're concerned about? Might be a bit messy but so what. https://www.tradingdepot.co.uk/polypipe-gap-filling-cement-gfc100 Fecking star ⭐️ Didn’t even know that existed . Yes I’ll do it on all those joints just as a precaution . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiBee Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 not sure if its tricks of the camera but in some of the pics the pipes do not look to be inserted properly into the fitting, is this the case? do you have movement? Will this pipework be boxed in with no future access? Never used the gap filling cement but CT1 wouldn`t be a good long term fix for this IMO Without coming across as an arse, would you reconsider doing it again and maybe cut the long upright allowing you to assemble the tricky bits with more care and then joining the now cut pipe with a slip coupling. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 56 minutes ago, pocster said: Ok . I had to glue 4 joints all at once to get this to fit . Tried it dry was tricky anyway . Given I have about 30 seconds top I did ok - but some of the joints aren’t as tight as they should be . I hear you! Some pipe runs can be done easily but when you need to slot new pipe in between existing fixed points it can be a bit of a mad dash to get it all fitted snug and lined up before the solvent starts to cause the PVC to bite. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 5 minutes ago, SiBee said: not sure if its tricks of the camera but in some of the pics the pipes do not look to be inserted properly into the fitting, is this the case? do you have movement? Will this pipework be boxed in with no future access? Never used the gap filling cement but CT1 wouldn`t be a good long term fix for this IMO Without coming across as an arse, would you reconsider doing it again and maybe cut the long upright allowing you to assemble the tricky bits with more care and then joining the now cut pipe with a slip coupling. Some of them aren’t inserted fully . The problem was the 2 tees needed ‘adjusting’ simultaneously to fit . If I do One bit and let it set it Won’t line up with the other Bit . I was reluctant to glue it all with a ‘tick tock’ over my head but couldn’t see any other way of doing it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 Going to water test it now ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 (edited) 2 minutes ago, pocster said: Going to water test it now ? Plug the bottom if you can. ? Edited March 25, 2020 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 2 minutes ago, pocster said: Some of them aren’t inserted fully . I would say, although not ideal, as long as the pipe went in and ended up with a good welded joint to the the coupling, it should be OK. I sort of pressured tested all my PVC work by reaching down the brand new, clean, soil stack and jamming the 40MM waste up at the boss with toilet paper, I then ran the sink and bath until I knew the whole network of pipes was sitting full over water. Maybe you could alleviate some fears of your own with a similar test. On hand-over/completion of projects, say a big office block the architects and consultants and anyone else within the "design" team usually have a big party, there is what is called "the big flush" where everyone was to go to the WC's and kitchens and tea points and simultaneously flush all the loos and run all the taps. It was a bit of a gimmick at the system had been tested already, but it was to emulate a busy working building, once it had been done everyone would return to the party as normal and contractors would the go round risers and basements and plant areas looking for leaks or failures. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottishjohn Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 you could have dry assembled and marked all fittings how theywanted to be orinentated before glue was applied 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 9 minutes ago, pocster said: The problem was the 2 tees needed ‘adjusting’ simultaneously to fit . If I do One bit and let it set it Won’t line up with the other Bit . I was reluctant to glue it all with a ‘tick tock’ over my head but couldn’t see any other way of doing it That is an issue - I like to "bench build" as many pieces as I can, but let's face it, there comes the time you need to fit it to your building permanently and this can cause alignment issues you describe. Another option is to try fit the whole system - then mark every piece with a number and an alignment mark. That allows you to set elbows and Tees to the correct angle as you solvent weld them. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 3 minutes ago, scottishjohn said: you could have dry assembled and marked all fittings how theywanted to be orinentated before glue was applied Hope he did. He was told! ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 Ok ! zero leaks ! Ran it for a few minutes then opened hose to max . Not a drop . I will cement the joints then wait for 5 years time that ‘brown drip’ on my head ... ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 23 minutes ago, Onoff said: Plug the bottom if you can. ? You mean block the drain ?? To stop it emptying so fast ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 Running a tap is NOT a leak test. You need to get a proper drain test kit, which has plugs to plug the end, and you pump it up with air. If this job is subject to building control they will probably insist on witnessing that anyway. NOW is the time to get it right, not to find it has a small air leak after it is all boxed in and finished. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Jimbo Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 (edited) Poc. To be fair it looks rubbish. But if it don't leak, then it don't leak. An air test would be best fella. Edited March 25, 2020 by Big Jimbo Missed a bit 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 29 minutes ago, scottishjohn said: you could have dry assembled and marked all fittings how theywanted to be orinentated before glue was applied Yet I thought of that . Sharpie tends not to show up on black pipe . But with hindsight used tape or something as a marker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 12 minutes ago, Big Jimbo said: Poc. To be fair it looks rubbish. But if it don't leak, then it don't leak. An air test would be best fella. Ok . Exactly what do I need / do for an air test ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 I currently have another toilet connection to make before the soil pipe could be filled . I should finish this other joint . Block the drain ( best way to do that ? ) . Then fill the entire pipe until I can actually see it in the toilet fitting waste Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 Use a plug and pressure test it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 8 minutes ago, PeterW said: Use a plug and pressure test it. You mean ‘plug’ the fitting to the other toilet ? . Don’t have one to hand and of course no builders merchants open !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 Ffs ! I’ll cut the bitch out !!! ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 Screwfix are Need one of these 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottishjohn Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 33 minutes ago, pocster said: Yet I thought of that . Sharpie tends not to show up on black pipe . But with hindsight used tape or something as a marker tipex --i what iuse on cam pullies when doing a cam belt 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 Part of the problem was I needed ‘play’ to fit all this so I unclipped the geberit pan end. Just gave me enough wiggle room . But once glued I had to run upstairs and position the toilet pipe again ( wasting valuable seconds ) . Anyway ! Here I can see not fully inserted - so will never know if it was 100% leak proof . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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