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New house - trying to understand underfloor heating


RichardS

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Hello - just moved into new house and struggling to make sense of an underfloor heating system. Excuse the really basic questions.

 

We've tinkered with the controllers (HeatMiser Slimline RF) and we think we should have heating on. The displays are active and showing the room temperatures and the little flame icon is appearing. But... the floor remains chilly.

 

There are three zones - living area, kitchen, and a utility room.

 

The plumbing set up is in the below photo, with my rather clueless questions / observations added. Could somebody advise me on what I should be looking for / changing before I call in an expert?

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/LLV8GRAFUkN3A1379

 

Many thanks
Richard

Edited by RichardS
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Red and blue Butterfly handled valves are correct and both open.

 

Top 'knobs' are actuators controlled by your room thermostats, short of removing them and looking at the pin underneath when room stats call for heat.

 

Bottom knobs are the flow adjustments for each zone, if the water in the system is clean you can see a flow indicator and these are your best clue to see if water is flowing.

 

Have a feel of all the pipes, see where heat is getting to.

 

Underfloor heating can take a good few hours to start to increase a room temp.

 

Is there a pump near to this manifold, it is usual to have one, in my opinion the thermostatic mixer is not conventional and you usually have a pump/mixer combined to circulate the water locally at the manifold, blending it with a fresh slug of water from the main boiler circuit regularly.

 

Do the temperature indicators on the manifolds ever rise?

 

All that said I suspect it's a controls issue and a switch somewhere has been in-advertantly turned off isolating the UFH . 

 

 

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Just had another look, the pump is just visable  and looks like the speed switch is between position 1 and 2, can you feel the pump running, sometimes between speeds turns the pump off.

 

It's not normal to have actuators on the cold side of manifold, normally on the hot side to the rooms.

 

You're also right there is a temp controller strapped to the pipe, has this been turned down.

 

Likewise the blending valve with round blue knob might be turned down too low.

 

Mark the position of where you start from and make some notes each time you change things, it's easy to forget where you started out and what has been tried.

 

My first port of call is to confirm pump is running.

 

 

Edited by JFDIY
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The pump seems unresponsive even if I try changing the switch to another setting - no sign of life at all. Adjusting the temperature controller doesn't make any obvious difference - there is an audible click as you move it up and down as it finds the room temperature, but nothing kicks into action.

 

So I'm guessing I probably need a new pump?

 

Better photo of pump and temp controller

 

Thanks again,

Richard

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While I’m no expert I ran the plumbing and electrics to our UHH 

and a company commissioned it but had a similar problem to yours Everything looked like it was working but no heat 
The guy who terminated the electrics told me he would return the following day with a heating engineer 

In the meantime I drained the system and refilled and everything came to life 

 

 

image.jpg

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Hi - thanks all of you for further replies, particularly on Boxing Day.

 

It's an oil boiler, and the upstairs rooms and a couple of the downstairs rooms have conventional radiators. They're working fine, and we have hot water, etc. So all working except for these three areas which have the underfloor heating.

 

As for where the pipes are hot, please see latest photo - red lines = very hot to the touch, blue line = no obvious heat.

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/uoMPRRhNNvVZfBeDA

 

Richard

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I'd say pump is fairly likely, you show on the diagrams with red lines that the manifold is getting warm, for any warmth to be there, then there must be some flow of hot water (driven from the pump at boiler). It can only flow if one or more actuators on the manifold is open. The manifold pump, if not rotating, is causing an obstruction and flow through the UTH pipes will be low. Can you feel any warmth on the small pipes that go into or out of the floor, with the zones on and left for half an hour or more?

 

If you can change a light fitting then you can check the pump power supply. Either test with a multi-meter if you have one and are comfortable using it, if not, isolate all power, disconnect the feed cable and wire it to an old light fitting with a low wattage bulb. If you then turn the heating on the bulb will come on when power is sent to the pump.

 

Likewise you could wire the pump just to a 3-pin plug with 3A fuse fitted to check the pump in isolation. If the pump runs then turn the heating on and see if you get heat in the floors.

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A little tap and the pump seems to be humming ever so slightly whereas it seemed very still before.

 

I also noticed that the HeatMiser controllers both needed recalibrating - when I bought in another thermometer I realised they seemed to be overstating the room temperature by 2-3 degrees. Have now reset them.

 

I think it may be sorted, but if not will report back in the morning.

 

Thanks so much to everyone who chipped in... 

 

Richard

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The grey thing you marked "Some kind of thermostat" is just that. Its intended to limit the max floor temperature to avoid damaging some floor coverings or burning feet. Check its not set too low or the pump won't run. Somewhere around 45-55C should be OK. 

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