Onoff Posted May 20, 2022 Share Posted May 20, 2022 This is my what my 16 to 15mm are like: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpmiller Posted May 20, 2022 Share Posted May 20, 2022 @WillCram just check the length of the bits- is there any chance the adaptor crimps down onto the pipe as it's tightened? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillCram Posted May 20, 2022 Share Posted May 20, 2022 39 minutes ago, dpmiller said: @WillCram just check the length of the bits- is there any chance the adaptor crimps down onto the pipe as it's tightened? Hi, I was wondering that, but the compression 'edge' seems a bit too thick to be effectively compressed, especially when comparing it to a typical olive (See attached pics). I take your point though. The split olive, when fitted, doesn't actually allow the nut to bite the thread of the opposing part, so clearly (it now occurs to me) that the olive is not required. I guess there's only one way to find out. I'll have to try and tighten it up and see what happens! I'm a few days away from doing that though, so was just really ensuring I understood things before I got to that point. Cheers, WIll. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillCram Posted May 20, 2022 Share Posted May 20, 2022 3 minutes ago, WillCram said: Hi, I was wondering that, but the compression 'edge' seems a bit too thick to be effectively compressed, especially when comparing it to a typical olive (See attached pics). I take your point though. The split olive, when fitted, doesn't actually allow the nut to bite the thread of the opposing part, so clearly (it now occurs to me) that the olive is not required. I guess there's only one way to find out. I'll have to try and tighten it up and see what happens! I'm a few days away from doing that though, so was just really ensuring I understood things before I got to that point. Cheers, WIll. Sorry, just realised that I've pointed out the wrong surface in the first pic. It is of course the 'rim' that's closest to my fingers. This may in fact compress as the nut is tightened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillCram Posted May 20, 2022 Share Posted May 20, 2022 8 minutes ago, WillCram said: Sorry, just realised that I've pointed out the wrong surface in the first pic. It is of course the 'rim' that's closest to my fingers. This may in fact compress as the nut is tightened. Yep, Im sure you're right now actually! Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HughF Posted May 24, 2022 Share Posted May 24, 2022 Uponor eurocone adapters, as pictured in this post above, do not require the olive. I've used them at 7 bar with no issue. The cheaper ones do require a split olive and will come with one if required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexphd1 Posted June 16, 2022 Share Posted June 16, 2022 No olive needed with your fittings! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjsx Posted November 26, 2022 Share Posted November 26, 2022 On 28/11/2019 at 18:59, Alexphd1 said: Just out of curiosity are we talking a full UFH type of manifold or just a old school micro bore type manifold? We are using a ufh type manifold on our upstairs rads so we can control flow temp from thermal store and no TRV's just room stats via phone app. I dont like painted copper pipes as it's very rarely painted nice (always paint over the valve nuts etc). I do like plain copper or chrome pipe especially to towel rails etc. I would not have push fit fittings on show either as the pretty bulky. Most of our jobs we took the white mlcp (uponor) plastic pipe rite to the radiator valve and used a chrome nut. Never had any customers complain. Ps carpet had yet to be fitted at that job. @Alexphd1 Is there any good way to get copper pipe around the plastic, to completely conceal it and make it look as though the rads are plumbed with copper? Perhaps looks a little nicer, and provides some physical protection, but doesn't add an extra join below the floor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruggers Posted November 26, 2022 Share Posted November 26, 2022 You can either buy pipe clips that are split lengthways and clip around the pipes, maybe called rad snaps, or buy something like these. https://radiatorvalves4u.co.uk/500-radiator-pipe-shroud-130mm-long-brushed-copper/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAj4ecBhD3ARIsAM4Q_jFK8hVmeIjPzYSJcCcgfNrj4emtMvOcPXF4129rJTGDhiVDEabp9wQaAhctEALw_wcB 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 26, 2022 Share Posted November 26, 2022 4 hours ago, mjsx said: @Alexphd1 Is there any good way to get copper pipe around the plastic, to completely conceal it and make it look as though the rads are plumbed with copper? Perhaps looks a little nicer, and provides some physical protection, but doesn't add an extra join below the floor. Stick copper tape on the plastic pipe or on plastic pipe protectors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 26, 2022 Share Posted November 26, 2022 I put silver foil tape on a black waste: (Yes I know, pi$$ poor tiling!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HughF Posted December 4, 2022 Share Posted December 4, 2022 On 26/11/2022 at 16:22, mjsx said: @Alexphd1 Is there any good way to get copper pipe around the plastic, to completely conceal it and make it look as though the rads are plumbed with copper? Perhaps looks a little nicer, and provides some physical protection, but doesn't add an extra join below the floor. Your other option is 16/15 press rad tails, but they are always chrome/nickel plated. And you’ve got a joint under the floor, albeit a pressed one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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