WillCram

Yep, Im sure you're right now actually! Thank you.

Sorry, just realised that I've pointed out the wrong surface in the first pic. It is of course the 'rim' that's closest to my fingers. This may in fact compress as the nut is tightened.

Hi, I was wondering that, but the compression 'edge' seems a bit too thick to be effectively compressed, especially when comparing it to a typical olive (See attached pics). I take your point though. The split olive, when fitted, doesn't actually allow the nut to bite the thread of the opposing part, so clearly (it now occurs to me) that the olive is not required. I guess there's only one way to find out. I'll have to try and tighten it up and see what happens! I'm a few days away from doing that though, so was just really ensuring I understood things before I got to that point. Cheers, WIll.

Thanks for confirming, I thought as much! Seems a bit cheap that they're not included! By the way, I used the wrong nut in my photos. The actual one is narrower and deeper, as per the pics in your original post. Cheers, Will.

Hi Nick, a further question if I may?! I've ordered (and received) the Uponor MLCP (16mm) to 15mm compression fittings, but there are no split olives included. I'm guessing I need split olives in order to hold the MLCP in situ once pushed into the body of the compression fitting? Otherwise the MLCP is free to be pulled out, because the nut is not applying any pressure to it? (Pics included, One with the compression fitting as supplied (without the olive) and another showing where I think the olive is needed). Just seems strange that the olives wouldn't be suppled, which is why I"m probably overthinking the whole thing! Cheers, Will.

That was my thought too Mike. Thanks for confirmation; always good to know that someone has tried it and been happy with the result. Cheers, WIll.

Agreed; I'll be doing the same as you with the MLCP direct to the rad valves. I just like the idea of a seamless run under the floors, so no possibility of a leak. I was surprised by the toughness of the pipe (PEX-AL-PEX in my case) so yes, definitely fine for direct connection to the rad. Thanks again Nick.

Ah! Brilliant! Thank you so much Nick, and for such a prompt reply 🙂 Many thanks, Will.

Hi, How did you you manage to insert the 16mm plastic pipe into the 15mm radiator valve, such that you could use the chrome nut? I'd love to do mine this way, but can't see how to do it. Did you trim/chamfer the end of the plastic pipe to make it fit into the valve body?