Zoot's Extention- progress.

[zoothorn]

59 minutes ago, Thedreamer said:

 

Nobody is trying to impress buddies/gangs, we are just working hard to get projects done, help others, learn and prehaps have a bit of banter. 

 

This attitude is terrible brings down the general feeling of forum. ?

 

 

Bullies will be met with ridicule. Like your nice natured post here (thanks).. its just karma Thedreamer. I win against bullies/ cowards simple as/ they often amuse me too like this you see soo desperate to get their barb in & impress.. & trip over their feet!

 

Are Likes/ smiley faces/ cup icons clicked on to back up a buddy's snidy comment at someone (& nasty bitchy PM mssgs too) reminiscent of:

 

grown chaps on a build forum?.. or a school gang on phones picking on the weakest?

 

I leave it to you to decide.

[zoothorn]

14 hours ago, PeterW said:

Ok - you need to ask the builder to use concrete bricks or cut down blocks to slim down BOTH SIDES OF THE OPENING, as I have a cunning plan..

 

No.1, you cannot render over timber, or it will crack. 
 

No.2, if you just get them to slim the opening by 120mm each side, then you can create an inside “splay” so that the window is equally wider both sides and it looks correct by just joining the edge of the frame to the edge of the blockwork. 

 

This will look like it was meant to be done this way. 

 

 

 Hi Peter- just going over the replies, I saw this & roughly understand. So the cunning plan is 'creating an inside splay'?

 

I don't quite follow sorry.. I do see what a splay is, a recessed window (& this would be good/ might actually match my orig slightly recessed window its meant to ~look like).

 

What I was told is you cannot use block to 'pack' because the block has nothing to fix to/ cannot interlock into anything as its a block sheer face both opening sides: so the only option is timber to pack the gap. Can you just explain 1st why you think this can be refuted?

 

Then I'll try & understand the splay idea.

 

Thanks- zoot.

[Gone West]

9 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

What I was told is you cannot use block to 'pack' because the block has nothing to fix to/ cannot interlock into anything as its a block sheer face both opening sides: so the only option is timber to pack the gap.

I have never understood why your builder said that. Why can't he screw some ties onto the side of the window opening blocks if he feels it's really necessary to tie them in.

[PeterW]

4 minutes ago, PeterStarck said:

I have never understood why your builder said that. Why can't he screw some ties onto the side of the window opening blocks if he feels it's really necessary to tie them in.

+1 to this ...

 

Pack of 10 is £11 delivered tomorrow from Toolstation 

 

 

Even if he puts them in every joint it’s better than nothing. 
 

What he could also do is cut this nib out and replace with a half block that would tie the lot in - not exactly difficult with a Stihl saw ...

 

[zoothorn]

Just now, PeterStarck said:

I have never understood why your builder said that. Why can't he screw some ties onto the side of the window opening blocks if he feels it's really necessary to tie them in.

 

Probably because its BS Peter, he just can't be bothered. He's told me lie after lie successfully hoodwinking me along (re. the wretched H issue continuing to c*ck everything up now I know he is responsible, not the collar position via a Timber Frame computer) so why would he stop now & be truthful?

 

Unless I have a concise, formed alternative plan to 'timber' in one 2 minute sentence.. he just walks off. I'm trying to form this plan.

 

So here I'm trying to understand  'screw some ties' (?).. 'side of the window opening blocks'(? this is what I'm 1st trying to establish whether possible to do, before thinking of fitting the window in).. and 'tie them in'(?).

[zoothorn]

@PeterW

 

ok thanks that's a start. So these are ties.. to join new 120mm cut sections of block, to the built block-?

[zoothorn]

Can someone confirm that "supply 100mm insulation" (last on list of 'groundworks' itemises, on my estimate)..

 

1) means I have paid for this included, IE it will be delivered onto site?

 

2) it means that it will only be delivered (& stacked at the side of the room for eg).. but not fitted?

 

[Gone West]

4 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

2) it means that it will only be delivered (& stacked at the side of the room for eg).. but not fitted?

That is what I would expect.

[Danny68]

Ok I'm  going to muddy the waters ? , I'm not a brickie and would be interested  in anyone else opinion  . Would it not be possible to cut existing blocks  out on the window ( to make a proper bond )  then rebuild up  the required  230mm ? It doesn't seem to be that big a job imho.

[zoothorn]

Anyone know what the grey chipboard floor stuff is called, & know what the light purple glue stuff is.. i think its a low expanding foam? (german, white ~1 ltr bottle all I know).

[Mr Punter]

Egger Protect chipboard and D4 adhesive.

[PeterW]

58 minutes ago, Danny68 said:

Ok I'm  going to muddy the waters ? , I'm not a brickie and would be interested  in anyone else opinion  . Would it not be possible to cut existing blocks  out on the window ( to make a proper bond )  then rebuild up  the required  230mm ? It doesn't seem to be that big a job imho.

that’s what I sort of suggested as there are a couple of splits that are only 100mm or so wide that could be removed. 

[Danny68]

16 minutes ago, PeterW said:

that’s what I sort of suggested as there are a couple of splits that are only 100mm or so wide that could be removed. 

Apologies PeterW, there you go Zoothorn get the builder to quote  you for that then use the discrepancy in the  100mm floor insulation  cost as a bargaining  chip to get the price down ,say it with a smile then let the builder get on and do it .

[Pocster]

I wish I could add something constructive to this thread . It seems possibly plausible that @zoothornmight be interested in some walk on glazing ????

[zoothorn]

10 hours ago, Danny68 said:

Apologies PeterW, there you go Zoothorn get the builder to quote  you for that then use the discrepancy in the  100mm floor insulation  cost as a bargaining  chip to get the price down ,say it with a smile then let the builder get on and do it .

 

Done just this today. Agreed. Good call @PeterW & damn timely too: builder came storming round today: & I had whole thing out with him.

 

AM I called the TFrame Co & had a go, not happy with the collar position (1ft lower than plan) as I was just not getting clarity from builder, so I'll go to horses mouth for an answer. PM builder storms round "just had TFCo on phone! you calling saying not happy with roof?!! WTFF" etc. Sh*te (no good reason from TFrame Co other than builder said to/ he built groundwork etc).

 

So, I told builder *I do not have clarity on the 1ft depth the WHOLE build is down, so I'll call them if I feel like it. Him fuming/ me resolute. He gives me "wind resistance" tech spiel reason (I smell BS) & when I ask for proof, he says 'end of build you'll get docs showing so'. Let's see.

 

Then he demands what I want/ whilst threatening to walk off job. I stay resolute & like a boss tell him straight, concisely, I want xyz. He's agreed to supplying the floor & 50mm insulation in place of 100mm insulation. I agreed to pay bill given a week + ago. He's calmer.

 

I say the estimate for drain (£445) and skim off drive 100mm to help the ground offset (£400) I'm not happy with.. he says figs were only to show cost to him/ not for me (odd.. but erm ok) & he'd do these 'tidying up jobs' all along foc he said. He did so I apologised, thanked him.

 

I asked for PeterW's block idea, I even used 'splay' to impress him.. he agreed (much better mood now). We agreed him to do upstairs ceiling pB & insulation (including the knock thru 'tunnel' area) @ quoted £500.. & lastly the block retaining interior wall/ concrete behind it to cover exposed founds area @ £125. So a win for me, we we're laughing at the end/ back on good terms nattering away friendly as always.

 

A result, a relief & all tied up, bar the intractible Q as to why the collars (& whole shebang) 1ft down. I don't think I'll ever get a satisfactory answer to this: if I get wind spiel docs proving him correct.. I'll eat my hat naked on the site.

 

Thanks for your help/ patience chaps.. zoot.

[zoothorn]

Still wrong I should be paying £18k today for a job that's not correct, & a builder on -my- back about it, & laughing at me "you always stressed?".. "Ive never had a customer like you".. "look all blockworks done, have I billed you for it yet!?" (the mortar still curing in places).. dreadful lines & attitude to me. Infuriating really- but I kept my cool as I had no choice. I am being & fleeced as to the reason it not built according to what I wanted, him shrugging the 'discrepency' off as 'who cares about 1ft?!' with hollow promises of proof that he was correct to have built it so.

 

He clearly came storming round because I'd hit a nerve: the roof (collar position): made due to a measurement mistake on day1 @ groundwork stage.. & panicked I was about to demand the roof redone. Not because I'd called the TFrame Co myself & had a few words at all.

 

Anyway photos will come now.. maybe.

 

 

 

[zoothorn]

I'm currently waiting for last 3 build jobs (bar 'tidying up' minor jobs).

 

Doors & windows/ rendering/ pB & insulation to top ceiling & in 'tunnel' knock-thru area .

 

What's the usual order, scratch coat / render, doors windows always after? or can it safely be done scratch coat, doors/ windows, main render to do it faster as I assume might happen?

 

 

Edited November 21, 2019 by zoothorn

[zoothorn]

Builder put a nice bit of slate sill on for me, & window will be set back ~level with the start of block. Good suggestion re. ties/ blocking the side to narrow..

[zoothorn]

Inside roof etc. You can see two big 9.5" steps that had to be as compromise due to the low H 'discrepency'. H here will be ok.. but the width 850mm on the plan, is made 820mm block to block (so will need ? on the surface as a finish narrowing it to ?). Nothing I can do about it/ I've only just been able to get in here & measure. You can see the existing roof felt: this area is as the rest of house is/ 2 brick courses with no insulation then roof air in the big voids between inner brick & pB.. hence freezing cold bedrooms.

 

Will be a great sized room. If only floor & ceiling were this damn 1ft higher they should be tho..

 

 

[Onoff]

All things considered you have an extension! ? I'm truly amazed the BCO didn't kick off about Part M and level access on both floors though. 

 

[zoothorn]

58 minutes ago, Onoff said:

All things considered you have an extension! ? I'm truly amazed the BCO didn't kick off about Part M and level access on both floors though. 

 

 

Hi Onoff- yes this is the right frame of mind, as it goes into final exterior xyz all exciting etc, it'll help subdue my H concerns for now.

 

Builder being extra nice now, communicating, slate window sill, another for door sill. Roof slates are canadian (not spanish cheapos I assumed) something cool about a seam running from wales under atlantic up to canada.. he told me. Quality overall is all very good. Scratch coat monday.

 

I'm not sure of Part M.. but I don't need to know. B. regs, & planning (considering I got the balcony ok'd via an NMA) shows things are just done different out here in the wild west to england I think.

[Mr Punter]

Part M does not apply as this is an extension.  They can only kick off if you make it worse.

[PeterW]

Before he closes it up, get some insulation stuffed in that void to the side of the steps. Cheapo rockwool will do. 

[zoothorn]

1 minute ago, PeterW said:

Before he closes it up,get some insulation stuffed in that void to the side of the steps. Cheapo rockwool will do. 

 

Yup- I got a whole rockwool spare, asked him to put right up there. The plan is rigid stuff here/ offcuts of his etc.. but more the merrier I guess.

 

Can rockwool go right up to the roof felt? this 'tunnel' will be the cold weak point (not sure what's happening for a ceiling here yet).. just as the adjacent void behind all existing bedroom pB is the houses weak point.

[PeterW]

Yep just leave a small ish gap so it doesn’t touch the felt. But would be using Rockwool everywhere including in then brick cavity. 
 

If the whole house is twin skin brick (and not solid) you can get a grant to get blown in insulation. Will only cost you £2/300 I expect to have the whole house done.