Issues with softwood windows and doors.

[ProDave]

Re the outward opening design and "the problem" shown above.

 

Swapping to inward opening solves that problem at the top, but then shifts 100% reliance on the seal  to that very same problem at the bottom.

 

[nod]

14 minutes ago, Jenni said:

 

My builder has said he won't be using that joiner again, he's apparently lost a lot of money trying to rectify issues in other builds as well.

 

Our 'permission' was via permitted development, our architect specified wooden windows, we were under the impression that's just what we had to have. TBH we probably wouldnt have gone with uPVC anyway, personal thing. But I would have investigated Ali' / Aluclad if I thought it was allowed. Live and learn / next time.

 

 

I'm told the doors/glazing was fitted with 'toeing and heeling' method.

 

The metal straps are slide bolts,  I was advised to have them to stop twisting, I specified those flush ones but wasnt advised they'd cause any issues.

 

 

Hmm, I don't know for sure, but I think after installation.

 

 

The video is of a window (sorry I should have been clearer) I think the water is coming in here - 

 

 

Ok, now I know more, thank you.

Yes, will be saving up for aluminium replacements, one day it will get better, until then these will have to be good enough.

 

 

The 2 outward opening doors were painted on top/bottom/sides (just not the inside face). of those 2, 1 has dropped/jams, the other is ok. 

 

 

Our permission stated timber painted sash windows As we are next to a former farmhouse that is listed The voyage that is joined to the farmhouse was extend 8 years ago and had hardwood sash throughout Most now leak or stick 

I spent six months arguing with planners While I accepted that I must have sash (There goes my air tightness ) I new That with more than thirty timber sash there would be some issues and annual maintenance

We found a company that had won Heritage sash window award (UPVC wood grain )

and planners agreed to allow these

Had we not been next to a listed building I don’t think there would have been any issue with planners

 

[Onoff]

I think you will want a weather bar here as well i.e between the two windows:

 

 

This just as an example, timber, aluminium, plastic all available. 

 

 

Will need to be siliconed on and pinned / screwed with stainless fixings ideally.

Edited September 30, 2019 by Onoff

[Temp]

2 hours ago, ProDave said:

Re the outward opening design and "the problem" shown above.

 

Swapping to inward opening solves that problem at the top, but then shifts 100% reliance on the seal  to that very same problem at the bottom.

 

Not necessarily. On my inward opening doors the weather bar on the bottom projects through the opening beyond the seal so it's also sheltered. I'll try and make a drawing tomorrow.

[ProDave]

7 hours ago, Temp said:

Not necessarily. On my inward opening doors the weather bar on the bottom projects through the opening beyond the seal so it's also sheltered. I'll try and make a drawing tomorrow.

So does the weather bar on my Rationel doors, but don't under estimate for force of a Westerly Highland gale.  The water blows straight round the weather bar, into the gap and occasionally when it's really blowing a hoolie, a little gets past the seal.

[dpmiller]

...which is why UPVC profiles have gutters and drains.

[Hobbiniho]

the biggest problem that i can see is the fact that the glazing beads are completely wrong, there should not be a mitre in the bottom corners, that detail forces water into the corner and into the joints the bottom bead needs to also be wider and have a drip detail as currently all the water that hits the top window will run down the glass and straingt into the gap at the top of the bottom window

[Simplysimon]

could we see a picture of the edge of the door?