zoothorn Posted September 24, 2019 Author Share Posted September 24, 2019 12 minutes ago, Onoff said: You can lead a horse to water is the phrase I think! You could have used a laser if they were 2m difference! Sorry not understanding. Anyway look I didn't use one, I made a mistake by writing down a wrong figure/ a laser wouldn't have magically altered this, & I don't neccessarily need one if a level will do. It doesn't need to be super-critical level, its a used cabin with one side a tad loppy too, 'level' will do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted September 25, 2019 Author Share Posted September 25, 2019 @Onoff was the idea of the laser level.. that it shines a full line across, so you can put a tape intersecting it from a distance away & it'll fire a spot on the tape? I'm trying to get why it would be more useful than a level, or why you might have suggested it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan52 Posted September 25, 2019 Share Posted September 25, 2019 You could have set it on your top pad and had it hitting a piece of timber sitting upright on the bottom pad which would have gave you a precise height difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted September 25, 2019 Author Share Posted September 25, 2019 Ah ok. I thought its design/ function was just a more precise level you see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted September 26, 2019 Share Posted September 26, 2019 I'll cobble something together in the garden this evening with 4 "plinths" and the laser to show you exactly but in essence yes. I'd have placed the laser level on a 5th point outside the 4 plinths. The dead level, horizontal beam fires across the top of all 4 plinths. Put the tip of the tape on top of each plinth and measure up to the laser beam. Write down the 4 figures you get. Will tell you which plinth is highest/lowest and enable you to calculate one relative to the other. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted September 26, 2019 Author Share Posted September 26, 2019 Hi @Onoff thats good of you- I now sort of understand the usefulness of it. But another £30.. & will I ever use again? just wasted £30 on this damn pillar & jeesesH.. totting approx costs up: I had -no- idea (let alone the complexity or work) its gonna be nr 1k. Its snowing me under again. We had a howling squall/ storm last night & I worry how this structure would've coped tbh too. I think I need a back 'brace' beam thing going from BFO tree behind to the back corner stream side, to stop any backwards movement. I guess the cabin secured down will help, rigidity etc, but alot of presssure will bear on the whole of this pillar-side from wind hitting the full front of the cabin, & the front roof overhang design won't help surely forcing it UP (& back RHS.) What form would two 45* brace after-additions take (onto 2x pillars etc)? I mean the way these 3 bits join, is surely integral to how much strength they will add to this 'weak' side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Davies Posted September 26, 2019 Share Posted September 26, 2019 1 hour ago, zoothorn said: & will I ever use again? Yes, you will. A laser level is very handy for all sorts of things. Of course you can often use a spirit level for the same job but a laser is often easier and more accurate, particularly if you're on your own and things are awkward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted October 1, 2019 Author Share Posted October 1, 2019 On 21/09/2019 at 17:11, Declan52 said: So make beam 1&2 up to give you the L shape. Have you posts cut and in the shoe but not fixed to the pads. Have your L beam resting on the top pad on the raised bit and your post with shoe and clamp. Move the L till it's level then clamp to the post. Mark with pencil under the beam for one side and use a level for the other edge then cut your notch on both sides. Hi Declan- getting prepped/ re-reading your steps (v.good of you). I get the 1st step above- but forgive my ignorance, how to clamp 1 to 2? Total wash-out scuppered any progress last week & this week too. gives me time to prep attack-plan tho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 1, 2019 Share Posted October 1, 2019 45 minutes ago, zoothorn said: Hi Declan- getting prepped/ re-reading your steps (v.good of you). I get the 1st step above- but forgive my ignorance, how to clamp 1 to 2? Total wash-out scuppered any progress last week & this week too. gives me time to prep attack-plan tho. Fix temporary bit of timber under the end of 1 to rest 2 on I would. Drill thru 2 into 1 and screw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted October 1, 2019 Author Share Posted October 1, 2019 36 minutes ago, Onoff said: Fix temporary bit of timber under the end of 1 to rest 2 on I would. Drill thru 2 into 1 and screw. Aha roger that- thx Onoff. Whilst your there- won't there be insufficient load-bearing capability onto these two 'tagged on' back & front beams? I mean if the cabin load sits equally on the 4 walls: the side wall loads will push down onto beams (looong ones) > onto pillars & plinths/ fine.. but the front & back wall loads will push onto beams > brackets only: they have nothing below. The topside/ high two plinths I have two 1-1/4" thick (8x8) terracotta tiles to go under the corner joints, for my "risers". So the load here is ok/ pushing down on something below the beam. So its the streamside two points only of concern then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted October 10, 2019 Author Share Posted October 10, 2019 @Onoff I've cut my 2 notched pillars.. do I need to treat the exposed ends with gubbins, or are these 6x6 tannalised all thru? Rain scuppering progress tho.. I need a dry 2 days, especially to do the resin fixings. Thanks, zoot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyscotland Posted October 10, 2019 Share Posted October 10, 2019 6 minutes ago, zoothorn said: @Onoff I've cut my 2 notched pillars.. do I need to treat the exposed ends with gubbins, or are these 6x6 tannalised all thru? I would, the pressure treatment doesn't always get all the way through especially on thicker stock. Not going to cost a lot/take long and worth it for the peace of mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted October 10, 2019 Author Share Posted October 10, 2019 30 minutes ago, andyscotland said: I would, the pressure treatment doesn't always get all the way through especially on thicker stock. Not going to cost a lot/take long and worth it for the peace of mind. Ok thanks will do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted October 10, 2019 Author Share Posted October 10, 2019 (edited) @Declan52 I'm trying to find what was suggested to fix the top side beams to the top pads.. did you recommend brackets of some sort? (sorry its a needle in a haystack trying to find what was suggested). [Mods: any chance of adding post/ reply numbers ie "in post #54 Onoff refered to X"..? trying to pinpoint something in discussion with only a page as reference is tricky]. Thanks, zoot. Edited October 10, 2019 by zoothorn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted October 10, 2019 Author Share Posted October 10, 2019 I'm really struggling with this. I've done 1 test of a turbo coach screw into a 6x3 offcut.. & I cannot possibly get it in with a drill driver. Ive done a 4mm pilot hole 1st- still cant drive one in, & then a 5mm pilot hole- still no way. Screwfix jobs recommended on early page somewhere. I can get it only in half way, but I'm struggling to remove it, let alone drive it thru to fix something behind it. What am I doing wrong here? the spiel says 'self driving in'.. no way/ this is impossible without massive force. Have I got too thick screws or something? do I use a power drill? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted October 10, 2019 Share Posted October 10, 2019 4 minutes ago, zoothorn said: I'm really struggling with this. I've done 1 test of a turbo coach screw into a 6x3 offcut.. & I cannot possibly get it in with a drill driver. Ive done a 4mm pilot hole 1st- still cant drive one in, & then a 5mm pilot hole- still no way. Screwfix jobs recommended on early page somewhere. I can get it only in half way, but I'm struggling to remove it, let alone drive it thru to fix something behind it. What am I doing wrong here? the spiel says 'self driving in'.. no way/ this is impossible without massive force. Have I got too thick screws or something? do I use a power drill? I use an impact driver for these. Makes the job easy and does not strain your wrist with the torque. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted October 10, 2019 Author Share Posted October 10, 2019 19 minutes ago, Mr Punter said: I use an impact driver for these. Makes the job easy and does not strain your wrist with the torque. I'm sure but I don't have one & I cant spend out £100 on a driver.. I can't afford it. Actually a friend just called & done a ~similar deck/ joist thing (not with 6x6 beasts tho) & used these bolts: he mentioned a 't-bar' &/ or socket job to get them in.. as he's older school & not so into 'yoof motor things'. I'm not getting with what they're designed to be driven in with, or what pilot hole size (even 8mm pilots.. I still can't use a drill driver to get 1 thru the 3" softwood!). The replies/ reviews say nothing apart from 'excellent blah.. easy in with a drill driver'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted October 10, 2019 Author Share Posted October 10, 2019 If I use a power (electric) drill & do 8mm pilots, I can -just- get my bit thru my 3" post top (or 3" beam), & in 1 cm pilot into my beam to be fixed. If I use this mark, take beam of/ drill 8mm pilots again & use a ratchet/ socket bar thing I might be able to. But this doesn't seem right, I shouldn't be doing this surely. I need to do this 12x too. At the moment I can't even join two beams together to make an "L"! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan52 Posted October 10, 2019 Share Posted October 10, 2019 Use the L shaped brackets to fix the top beams into the pads. For the coach screws you need to drill the pilot so it's half the diameter of your coach screws, 12mm screw needs a 6mm pilot hole. Drive it in as far as you can with your drill with the correct nut bit on and then you can use a ratchet or a ring spanner to get it the rest of the way in if your drill can't fully drive it in. Could you ask the guys doing your concrete have they got a impact drill they could lend you?? It's high torque you need which most drills don't really have a lot of. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted October 10, 2019 Author Share Posted October 10, 2019 18 minutes ago, Declan52 said: Use the L shaped brackets to fix the top beams into the pads. For the coach screws you need to drill the pilot so it's half the diameter of your coach screws, 12mm screw needs a 6mm pilot hole. Drive it in as far as you can with your drill with the correct nut bit on and then you can use a ratchet or a ring spanner to get it the rest of the way in if your drill can't fully drive it in. Could you ask the guys doing your concrete have they got a impact drill they could lend you?? It's high torque you need which most drills don't really have a lot of. Ok these L brackets.. I bought some but no idea if suitable/ they have a large oval holes in just where I need round holes, so I don't know how on earth to use them or if suitable at all (but all screwfix had, in the shape of an "L" with a high upper section). I need the extra height one end in to meet my beams, as they'll be sitting 2" off the pad on plastic risers.. for eg screwfix 71671 types I can't use as my beam will be above them. Screwfix 86180 is what I have. ?? As to getting the coach bolts in. I can't get in using any smaller pilot hole than 8mm. Is this no good then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted October 10, 2019 Author Share Posted October 10, 2019 Does anyone know how these brackets work https://www.screwfix.com/p/sabrefix-heavy-duty-angle-brackets-galvanised-63-x-90mm-10-pack/86180 They're the only ones afaict @ right height for what I need. Ok in the metal I have one 10mm hole that's spot on for height to use for an 8mm bar across > thru 3" beam > into another similar bracket other side (if that's the right idea?).. but a bloomin oval hole just where I need a normal hole to be above. What do I do here? its the same with the downward side into pad.. one hole is useable, but a bloody oval hole again scuppers me. Are these brackets even suitable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted October 10, 2019 Author Share Posted October 10, 2019 (edited) Can anyone please help/ advise? thanks, zoot Edited October 10, 2019 by zoothorn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 10, 2019 Share Posted October 10, 2019 Some photos would help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan52 Posted October 10, 2019 Share Posted October 10, 2019 The oval hole is just to give you a bit of movement in the fixing point. Just treat it as a normal hole and fix away. Post a link to the exact coach screws you bought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted October 10, 2019 Author Share Posted October 10, 2019 3 hours ago, Onoff said: Some photos would help. Hi Onoff, photo in post couple above.. screwfix link/ mine like this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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