Pocster Posted August 12, 2019 Share Posted August 12, 2019 Well I boarded mine ages ago . Render guy came to look today for k rend or similar . He was not impressed with the gaps deliberately left between boards - but it was ok . His tip for future reference is to put the boards up butt tight to each other , then just angle grind a nice neat expansion gap ! ? Live and learn ! Hope that helps someone !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 12, 2019 Author Share Posted August 12, 2019 (edited) Quick question ! Render board fixing screws should be zinc so don’t rust ??????? Edited August 12, 2019 by pocster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted August 12, 2019 Share Posted August 12, 2019 The gaps are not very even but should be fine with mesh coat and the render will fill the gaps in any case. You could have used plastic packers. I would not fancy grinding a gap - sounds messy. If this is a "proper" expansion gap going through render and board with the special bead then he may have a point but I have done some fairly large walls without. I think horizontal expansion gaps are more important than vertical on timber frame, but you need a break in the vertical battens to match the expansion gap in the render. As yours is not multi storey I would not bother with any. For fixing I use stainless screws. They react less with other materials and were recommended by Bluclad and other board manufacturers. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted August 12, 2019 Share Posted August 12, 2019 30 minutes ago, pocster said: Quick question ! Render board fixing screws should be zinc so don’t rust ??????? Almost all fixings in construction should be of corrosion resistant type unless it is at a point in the building where really water or dampness will be guaranteed non-existent - good luck proving that! This is an issue with a lot of timber construction where they used cheap thin nails, they rot then the frame effectively becomes weak as the thing isn't fixed anymore! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 12, 2019 Author Share Posted August 12, 2019 2 hours ago, Mr Punter said: The gaps are not very even but should be fine with mesh coat and the render will fill the gaps in any case. You could have used plastic packers. I would not fancy grinding a gap - sounds messy. If this is a "proper" expansion gap going through render and board with the special bead then he may have a point but I have done some fairly large walls without. I think horizontal expansion gaps are more important than vertical on timber frame, but you need a break in the vertical battens to match the expansion gap in the render. As yours is not multi storey I would not bother with any. For fixing I use stainless screws. They react less with other materials and were recommended by Bluclad and other board manufacturers. Yeah I think he meant if his 'chippy' had done it he'd sack him but as it's a self build and "you've got enough to do already" .... He was confident that the boards don't expand but it is recommended by the manufacturer to have the gaps. Yeah I 'thought' I used stainless steel but some have definitely rusted (been up maybe 1.5 years) ; so I'll replace those with new stainless steel - probably end up replacing every screw for peace of mind!!! Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted August 12, 2019 Share Posted August 12, 2019 If you used stainless they will only have a bit of surface rust and should not cause any problems once rendered. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 12, 2019 Share Posted August 12, 2019 Some (cheap?) stainless screws can be a bit soft and where the bit fits round off easily. Then a pig to get them out if you need to. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 12, 2019 Author Share Posted August 12, 2019 44 minutes ago, Mr Punter said: If you used stainless they will only have a bit of surface rust and should not cause any problems once rendered. Not sure now ! In panic / haste ordered some sTainless steel ones - will replace all of them so I sleep at night !! . Only take a few hours ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 12, 2019 Share Posted August 12, 2019 The cheap ones that rounded off I had were from S'fix and purportedly Grade A2, not sure on the hardness though. Fit A4 316 for a start to guarantee against corrosion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 12, 2019 Author Share Posted August 12, 2019 7 minutes ago, Onoff said: The cheap ones that rounded off I had were from S'fix and purportedly Grade A2, not sure on the hardness though. Fit A4 316 for a start to guarantee against corrosion. I ordered Knauf aqua panel exterior screws ( as recommended by render guy ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted August 12, 2019 Share Posted August 12, 2019 4 hours ago, pocster said: Well I boarded mine ages ago . Render guy came to look today for k rend or similar . He was not impressed with the gaps deliberately left between boards - but it was ok . His tip for future reference is to put the boards up butt tight to each other , then just angle grind a nice neat expansion gap ! ? Live and learn ! Hope that helps someone !! 4 hours ago, pocster said: Well I boarded mine ages ago . Render guy came to look today for k rend or similar . He was not impressed with the gaps deliberately left between boards - but it was ok . His tip for future reference is to put the boards up butt tight to each other , then just angle grind a nice neat expansion gap ! ? Live and learn ! Hope that helps someone !! Pretty stupid tip I wouldn’t use him Apart from it being very slow Why on earth would grind or leave an expansion joint then cover it with render Going off the picture you have posted It looks sot on to me Plenty of fixing Not driven in to far Staggered joints A few small gaps on the joints are not an issue The base coat and mesh will cover them without a problem ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 12, 2019 Author Share Posted August 12, 2019 (edited) 2 hours ago, nod said: Pretty stupid tip I wouldn’t use him Apart from it being very slow Why on earth would grind or leave an expansion joint then cover it with render Going off the picture you have posted It looks sot on to me Plenty of fixing Not driven in to far Staggered joints A few small gaps on the joints are not an issue The base coat and mesh will cover them without a problem ? You are my new best mate @nod !! ? Was getting bored of @Onoff anyway ? Edited August 12, 2019 by pocster 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 12, 2019 Share Posted August 12, 2019 Cheers @nod, saved me telling him it's over. ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted August 12, 2019 Share Posted August 12, 2019 6 hours ago, pocster said: Well I boarded mine ages ago . Render guy came to look today for k rend or similar . He was not impressed with the gaps deliberately left between boards - but it was ok . His tip for future reference is to put the boards up butt tight to each other , then just angle grind a nice neat expansion gap ! ? Live and learn ! Hope that helps someone !! The spec on mine was a gap with a dpc behind so if I had done what your render said it would have slit the dpc!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted August 12, 2019 Share Posted August 12, 2019 Keep the tips coming son! I need every damn one of them. ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted August 12, 2019 Share Posted August 12, 2019 If you spec your render board it will give you fixing guide. I used plastic packers as @Mr Puntersuggested. Get your first row straight and the rest will take care of itself. External corners need to be staggered corners, one long on one side and short on the next side and then do the opposite on the next row up, easy peasy lemon squeezy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted August 12, 2019 Share Posted August 12, 2019 1 hour ago, pocster said: You are my new best mate @nod !! ? Was getting bored of @Onoff anyway ? Ha ha Thanks How could we ever get board of On Off 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted August 12, 2019 Share Posted August 12, 2019 Pretty good example of how much money you can save by doing it yourself Sure your not going to be as quick as someone doing it each day Does it matter Well done ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted August 12, 2019 Share Posted August 12, 2019 1 hour ago, Onoff said: Cheers @nod, saved me telling him it's over. ? ??????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottishjohn Posted August 16, 2019 Share Posted August 16, 2019 On 12/08/2019 at 21:04, AnonymousBosch said: Keep the tips coming son! I need every damn one of them. ? think you will find with your durisol you don,t need anything like that , its so rough its pefect for render of any sort to stick too scratch coat+finish -- job done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 16, 2019 Author Share Posted August 16, 2019 Guy looked again today and after some alterations seemed happy - starts next week Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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