Indoor/outdoor paint used on conservatory

[H F]

The house we've moved into has a new wood conservatory which the previous owners have painted with an indoor/outdoor (multipurpose) paint, which is exposed to a fair amount of wind and rain, and the paint is beginning to chip and flake off.

 

We are going to repaint this with a proper outdoor paint. What I'm unsure of is whether we need to strip the existing paint off where it has flaked and just paint over the areas that are still OK almost utilising it like a primer? Or do we need to strip/sand the lot?

[Russell griffiths]

Got any pictures, what’s the timber.

The problem with not stripping it all is the thickness difference between paint surfaces will always show, unless you can feather it out nicely. 

Edited August 4, 2019 by Russell griffiths

[H F]

Please see attached photos - and the wood is cracking in many places.

 

They also left a pot of "touchup" paint for us, which is why we know what they used. Image also attached.

[Jeremy Harris]

I'd strip it right back, as it looks very much as if the original bare wood wasn't stopped and primed properly to me.  The way that knots are showing through is a pretty good indication of this.  If the underlying wood wasn't primed well, or at all, then there is a good chance that the paint adhesion is poor, so any repainting on top will still suffer from that.

[H F]

Thanks JS. That's what I feared. This is going to be a dirty, dusty job.

[H F]

48 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

Got any pictures, what’s the timber.

The problem with not stripping it all is the thickness difference between paint surfaces will always show, unless you can feather it out nicely. 

 I think its cedar or another treated timber, but not 100% sure as they never told us.

[Jeremy Harris]

1 minute ago, Home Farm said:

 I think its cedar or another treated timber, but not 100% sure as they never told us.

 

 

It doesn't look like cedar to me, especially as there seem to be fairly large surface knots present.  I'd guess that it's untreated softwood, based on the photos. 

[H F]

So I've decided to sand this conservatory down, getting rid of the paint and we'll also replace the beading around the windows.

 

On that note, what is the best primer that I can use on this wood. It's been confirmed to me that it's a soft, untreated wood, and I want to treat it so that I won't have to deal with this for a couple of years. When it's primed and treated, we're going to use a good quality exterior paint.

 

Suggestions please.

[H F]

Is this stuff good as a primer, and would it do the job we need it to do:

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/zinsser-b-i-n-shellac-based-primer-sealer-2-5ltr/10130

[H F]

The other option is https://www.ronseal.com/for-home/doors-windows/exterior-wood-paint/superflexible-wood-primer-and-undercoat/

 

Difficult to decide.

[bassanclan]

You need to ideally decide on what your final finish coat is going to be and use the correct primer accordingly. E.g. if you are using an oil based undercoat them gloss, ideally you would start with an oil based primer.

 

And you can use a white primer for white/light final coats and a grey for darker finishes

[H F]

We were thinking of going with this paint and would use the corresponding primer then that Ronseal recommend:  https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/ronseal-10-year-weatherproof-wood-paint-satin?gclid=CjwKCAjw1_PqBRBIEiwA71rmtY2tkQf2LLau3HzOJFaODA8y_6FGweSyElgR7VQmBAOaYqjpeofUShoCYk8QAvD_BwE

 

Our latest complication is that they have a colour called Duck Egg, and we need to make sure that it's a very close to our PVC windows that are chartwell green. 

 

Nothing in life is easy these days - too much choice and selection makes everything quite complicated. 

[scottishjohn]

On 04/08/2019 at 16:04, JSHarris said:

I'd strip it right back, as it looks very much as if the original bare wood wasn't stopped and primed properly to me.  The way that knots are showing through is a pretty good indication of this.  If the underlying wood wasn't primed well, or at all, then there is a good chance that the paint adhesion is poor, so any repainting on top will still suffer from that.

looking at it there is sod all paint on it or you would not see the grain of the wood -,so should be easy to take it off 

my dad was master painter and decorator and the time it takes to do a proper job is a lot 

knotting ,then primer coats ,then under coats  sanding as required and only then top coat 

which is why for me personally i would never have wooden anything outside if possible --the wood is rubbish to start with 

the modern paints are crap compared to old types , they don,t last  even when you spent all that time and money .

by the time you add up all the materials and labour costs -cheaper to rip out and fit something else .and have no maintainence for 20 years 

 get a house with 100 year old woodwork that is still sound --then that might be worth it --but on modern wood --not me

but that just my view 

 

 

[scottishjohn]

25 minutes ago, bassanclan said:

You need to ideally decide on what your final finish coat is going to be and use the correct primer accordingly. E.g. if you are using an oil based undercoat them gloss, ideally you would start with an oil based primer.

 

And you can use a white primer for white/light final coats and a grey for darker finishes

and the reason you use oil based paints is it feeds the wood --acrylic shit don,t --it sits on the top 

 same test again --if you can wash your brushes out in water --its not oil based

[scottishjohn]

anyone get a good finish with modern paints that don,t leave brush strokes --I not seen any,

which is why quite often they use spray  to apply them now

 

[Onoff]

Just seen this thread. I've used Bedec Barn Paint on new fresh wood and it's perfect after 5 years (see your shed gap thread).

 

I've not used Bedec Multi Surface Paint.

 

However.....I recommended the barn paint to a mate who went over his "already painted with something else" fence to change the colour and the Bedec Barn Paint didn't take well and flaked.

[scottishjohn]

looking again at your pictures --is that normal glass in that conservatory 

if not toughened then it would not pass modern build code --looks too large an area 

you fell through it - it cuts your head off

just be aware of the risk if you got kids etc 

 if i,m seeing it wrong and they are double glazed units --they will be toughened --so ignore me

Edited August 21, 2019 by scottishjohn

[Onoff]

2 minutes ago, scottishjohn said:

looking again at your pictures --is that normal glass in that conservatory 

if not toughened then it would not pass modern build code --looks too large an area 

you fell through it - it cuts your head off

just be aware of the risk if you got kids etc 

 if i,m seeing it wrong and they are double glazed units --they will be toughened --so ignore me

 

Good point. You can I think get safety film to help address this.

[scottishjohn]

3 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Good point. You can I think get safety film to help address this.

I used lexan in my  garden room for that reason --but you have to be very careful cleaning it--scratches very easy  --so just hose for outside cleaning .

 

[H F]

It was recommended to us yesterday that after we've sanded down the paint, we first treat the knots, then put a layer of aluminium oxide on before we do the primer and paint coats.

 

Is the general consensus here that the aluminium oxide is a good step?

Edited August 22, 2019 by Home Farm

[PeterW]

AlOx paint isn’t really needed in this situation - just a good primer and then a couple of coats of undercoat. Buy a “system” and it should all be fine - your local Johnstone’s Paints will make up any top coat colour for you from a sample or a code. 

[H F]

Thanks for the advice on the paints.

 

I need to turn my attention to the beading around the windows now - we're really struggling to find a supplier that will provide us with hard wood beading at a decent price that as we need to replace the beading around all the windows and seal them properly - can anyone suggest a good place online that we can buy this?

[H F]

As another thing I'm having to do is to seal the door in the conservatory because it's extremely drafty.

 

Having spent a lot of time scratching my head looking at this door, I've realised that there are no draft excluders (not sure if that's the correct name) that run vertically down the door on the inside channel - if I got the right product that will allow me to seal this door properly and keep the draft out. It's missing on both doors as per the attached pictures.

 

What is the correct product that I should buy, as I'd like the excluders to be able to 'overlap' each other to really keep the wind out.

 

 

 

[Ferdinand]

Beading. Can you use hardwood quadrant as used for edging laminate floors? But you will need to check the suitability of the product.

 

There s nothing to stop you eg protecting it first by soaking in whatever in a 3m chuck of gutter.

 

Need to consider carefully, plus your painting etc may make a difference.

 

Curries are quite good on this. They have red hardwood beading being cleared at about 60p a metre in bundles of 10 2.4m for about £15.

 

I had about 150m of it for my next house or two, which is now in the garage.

 

Their prices are Ok for the rest eg oak for 1.80 ish a metre for 12mm.

 

https://roncurrie.co.uk/dark-hardwood-16mm-quadrant-mould-decorative-trim-moulding-2.4m-bead-wood-timber?search=Quadrant

 

They may also have beading beading, but I have not asked.

 

F

 

 

 

Edited August 22, 2019 by Ferdinand

[PeterW]

On 20/08/2019 at 11:37, Home Farm said:

replace the beading around the windows

 

Why are you replacing the beading ..?? Repair may be quicker and easier - is there anything actually wrong with it ..?