Danish Oil reaction to some metals?

[8ball]

I am about to blow a fuse as my new oak kitchen countertops are getting black marks from certain metal objects such as cans that have contained food (not soft drink cans) and the bottom of some of my pots and pans. The marking does not happen if the item is dry, it only happens if the item is wet. I have done tests and it is nothing to do with heat, I never put items straight of the hob onto the work surface anyway.

 

I went to great effort to apply many coats of Barrattine Danish Oil to try and protect the new worktops and now this has happened, I am gutted ?

 

Can anyone please please tell me what the hell is going on

 

 

[Dee J]

Standard reaction of iron and tannin in oak in the presence of moisture. Oxalic acid will bleach it out.

[8ball]

5 minutes ago, Dee J said:

Standard reaction of iron and tannin in oak in the presence of moisture. Oxalic acid will bleach it out.

 

But how is the Iron coming in contact with the oak? I thought the Danish oil would stop this....humph

[Dee J]

Nothing short of encapsulating the oak in plastic would stop that. You're dealing with natural materials. Oak is probably the most susceptible timber to choose too.  Beech would have been less troublesome.

[PeterW]

Oak and danish oil aren’t ideal - I would have used Osmo Top Oil as it’s more durable. Is stripping it and reapplying something else out of the question ..?

[8ball]

6 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Oak and danish oil aren’t ideal - I would have used Osmo Top Oil as it’s more durable. Is stripping it and reapplying something else out of the question ..?

 

I'm all about getting this sorted so stripping is def an option, its had 5 - 6 coats over last 6 months so I bet it will take some shifting.

[Hobbiniho]

this is the exact reason i will never have solid wood worktops, as you have found out they need care and you cant leave anything on them or you will get stains, get it stripped and some osmo applied 

[ProDave]

We have a (Howdens) Oak worktop on the kitchen island.

 

I didn't oil it, but varnished it, with the better option 2 pack varnish that Howdens sell, but I forgot to note the actual make of the varnish.

 

2 coats on the underside, and 3 coats on the top, applied by roller.

 

Nothing stains it, not even red wine, everything just wipes off.

 

I do avoid putting hot things on it.

[Ian]

+1 for the Osmo. We used their Polyx-oil on our solid oak kitchen worktops and on the oak veneer doors and it still looks like new 2 years on. Red wine, tea spills etc just wipe off.

Edited June 20, 2019 by Ian

[Temp]

The iron oak reaction is pretty strong. I once left a chisel on some oak while I had lunch. Came back to find the oak stained.

 

I'm using Osmo UV protection oil on exterior oak over danish oil but I don't know if it's food grade.

[Oz07]

Get glass worktop protectors from B&M. Dead cheap, can still see the oak through and I put everything on them.

[8ball]

43 minutes ago, Oz07 said:

Get glass worktop protectors from B&M. Dead cheap, can still see the oak through and I put everything on them.

 

Good solution Oz07 ?

[Oz07]

When I first had oak worktops I hated them too. Too much tippy toeing around if you want them to stay looking pristine, joints have moved slightly despite being biscuited and glued and sanded and oiled all around. Unless you want the rustic look They're a bit needy for my liking. Might have that solid laminate in next place