Mr Blobby

I also thought the window fitters may actually screw into the block to fix the windows. How foolish of me, a nail gun is far quicker. 🙄 And why spend a tenner on new straps when there is a bucket of spares to use. 🤷‍♂️

To screw into the side of the window frame or clip on ?

So our window fitter didn't have enough of the specific fixing straps that clip into the side of the frame of our very expensive internorm windows. He said he would drill into the side and that would be fine, but it just seems a bit crap to turn up without the straps and then improvise on site. When I asked him to use the proper straps he said it would take too long to get them from Austria. The window fitters are off site for a few days and coming back to finish fitting the remaining windows (including the very big windows and slider that will be the most challenging) next week. (We are responsible for the delay) Should I insist on the proper fixing straps or let him drill away?

Even with a check reveal (compriband on front face of window frame) and external render to the window frame compriband is still the solution? Would compriband push the window inward slightly? We would render over the compriband to the frame? Or stop bead near to frame I guess.

And I thought about doing the same, to put a strip of compriband on the front of the window frame against the check. I did suggest this but was poo-pooed by builder and architect. An English thing they said. No compriband here in Northern Ireland. If I were to put a strip of compriband on the front then I assume this would mean removing the DPC, otherwise there would be a crap seal. My builder would freak out at the suggestion of no dpc at the reval. As he says, the DPC makes everything waterproof! It seems common practice here to render to the window frame so mayb that's why no other weather sealing is done. But then I think the render will crack at the window frame and not be very waterproof any more. AFAIK a block return and PIR closing the cavity is what is always done here in Northern Ireland. At the top of the window from the window frame to the inner leaf we plan to install a peice of supalux board. Is this a bad idea? We'll be foaming round the side between the window frame and the block return and PIR in the reveals but I guess this should be kept dry hence my concern about the weather prrofing at the front.

We have check reveals on our block cavity build with a layer of DPC at the reveal. Like this: We will be installing the windows up against the check reveal of course. So up against the DPC. And then rendering outside to the window. We will be foaming between the edge of the window and the PIR closing the reval cavity. I am told the DPC will provide weather proofing and compriband is not needed at the front edge of the window. Is that correct, compriband not need in this type of masonry check reveal install? Should I get some decent foam like FM330 to seal and insulate the side of the windows? (we will of course be taping the windows internally for the airtightness)

This is heartbreaking to see. You could use these photographs to compile a guide on how not to install cables. Our spark starts on site tommorrow. I plan to be there every day to prevent this sort of butchery. I think the only thing to do here is cut back the battens around the holes and then patch with some membrane and install a grommet. The problem is the grommet will need to be fed over the end of the cable and that is probably all the way back at the consumer unit now.

The pre-insulated MLCP 16mm pipe has either 9mm or 13mm insulation. Is 9mm enough? Do pipe and compression fittings need to be from the same manufacturer?

So, in reponse to my unenthusiastic response to usiong copper everywhere and my preferance for manifold plumbing, the plumber has come back and proposed MLCP to run between manifold and wet rooms instead of Hep. Saying Hep too bendy and needs too many clips. Never heard of MLCP before today. From what I can google it looks to be more difficult to knacker on install than Hep. Plumber says he will be using compression fittings. Comes in a single roll so no joins. What's not to like? MLCP? Snog, marry, avoid?

I feel your pain. We went through a similar time wasting exercise in 2022 with our architect insisting that the project must go out to tender and we spent a fortune on mostly crap advice that our architect talked us into paying for to put out a very detailed tender. When my patience finally ran out I sent my architect an email with the subject 'six months of crapness' and suggested taking a different approach to building our house. He responded by telling me that if I don't appoint and hand over total control to a main contractor then that makes me a self builder, he doesn't work with self builders and his firm does not work with self builders. We then ditched the tender process and found a local builder from recommendations and pay him on an open book basis on a phased approach. This isn't for everyone but works far better for us. We want to stay involved and have some oversight. The builder likes it because he has less risk. If the tender process is not working then bin the tender and try to find a local guy on recommendation who can project manage and get good trades on an open book basis.

Just got the electrician rates at £33 per hour. This is Northern Ireland so I had hoped for something a bit lower. The bit I don't like however is he also wants to be paid a 15% uplift on materials. Is such an uplift a standard thing? It sounds like a con. Is it?

This seems like a good idea. What pipe and vent did you use through the wall? My concern is that the 200mm comfopipe has a 280 outside diameter. Thats seems like a very big hole through a block wall. I'm looking at a 200mm blauberg plastic pipe to a 200mm blauberg vent as an alternative like this: The 200mm comfopipe should slide over the blauperg pipe ok I think and then it looks like the external cowl from the same manufactruer will slide into the rigid pipe ok. As well as looking easier to install through a smaller hole in the wall the bull nose cowls are a third of the price of the zhender grills. I suppose my unknowns are: 1. Would it be structurally ok to have a 280 mm hole in a block wall for the Zhender 280 insulated pipe to go to the outside? (I can get a firm to core drill it thanks to @Conor's advice elsewhere, I hust dont want the wall to collapse 😬) 2. Do I need insulated pipe through the cavity? The cavity is insulated anyway.

Did you insulate the pipe? How to fix to bottom of hollow core slab? Maybe long piece of timber with thunderbolt screws then individual pipe clips at 200 centres. (thinking out loud here)

These were my thoughts exactly. He's actually about 20 years younger than me so I'm surprised he's such a copperphile. I think I'll be insisting on plastic pipe with hep20 from manifold to wet rooms. Copper + manifold seems daft and I'm defo heving a manifold in the plant room next to the UVC.

In plastic pipe from manifold?

We actually gave the plumber a plumbing diagram from the M and E consultant with manifold and pre-insulated(!) pipes specified from manifold around house in variying diameters. I suspect the plumber has not looked at it. The plumber has not objected to the proposed manifold but does his preference for copper suggest he expects to install a branch system without a manifold? Stupid question but when installing a manifold then is it always plastic from there, or do people install manifolds in a copper only system too?

I definetly want a manifold in the plant room and individual supplies to each output. That means a lot of pipe. So what should I do? hep or copper? I don't think my builder or plumber have ever had a customer express a preference before 🙄and I think they don't like it 😬

We have hollowcore slabs so pipes will run in the void under that. I don't think there will be any joists to run through. What's the downside to copper pipe apart from cost. Noise? corrosion? Leaks in joints hidden away?

That's what I thought. When I raised the question of plastic pipe said plumber also talked about speedfit, which some on here say to avoid and use hep instead. Plumber's objection to plastic seems to be it needs more clips to support it than copper. Which seems a pretty lazy objection to me. What about expansion noise of copper? Is that a thing to be concerned about? What about heat loss and condensation?

After reading the various plumbing threads on here I expected our plumbing system would be a hep2o mainfold in the plant room and then a continuous run of plastic pipe from manifold to each fitting at the other end. I thought plastic pipes/hep2o was standard pratictice now so I was surprised when the plumber said he plans to install copper everywhere in our house with no plastic pipe anywhere. Copper pipes at the UVC I expected but not copper everywhere else too. Using copper everywhere seems a bit, well, 1950s, and reminds me of creaking clanking pipes leaking heat. Is there anything wrong with using copper? What about noise and heat and hidded joins? Should I insist (or not) on plastic/hep20 and why?

Against my better judgemt I copped out and instructed the solar installer to put the panels on the roof. Scaffold is up. I'm supplying the S5 clamps. Panels cost retail: 3k. Installer supply and fit: 6k. Maybe a days work. No inverter. I haven't felt this ripped off since I paid my last solicitors' bill.

I think the installer's view is that when the inverter's isolator is in the open position then it's safe to disconnect the MC4 plugs on the string without any risk because the circuit is open. Not sure I'd want to do it though. It has been known for isolaters to arc and catch fire (maybe in the open position?) so my installer's view is remove the isolator to remove the risk.

Did you install anything else between the panels and the invertor? Or just the DC isolator?

I asked the solar installer about DC isolators and he says they are a fire risk so he doesn't install them any more. Says the risk of shock from the DC cables is so low compared to AC (although admittedly fatal) that an isolator is not required. Which is interesting. After googling around it seems that the world maybe moving away from DC isolators.

This is kinda what I thought, so just intall a two-tracker DC isolator in the loft and then run the terminated cables from the isolator onto the roof. Connect the panels in series. In the future when the inverter is installed just run some wires from the isolater in the loft to the inverter. On a dark night I assume. I guess the DC cable should go in some steel conduit in the house. The only Solis inverters on that site with more than two trackers are the older version ones which are too big, from memory I think > 20KW. Even if we wanted to install an inverter that big, NIE won't allow it under G98. I looked into this and while it is relatively straightforwad to put a single phase inverter on each phase to get more trackers, it is more expensive and more complicated with battery storage. The information I was getting from suppliers was thet three seperate single phase hybrid inverters will generate and discharge according to the load on each phase. To synchronise them is complex. The new 3-phase hybrid solis inverter is far simpler and far cheaper. The cynic inside me suspects they are not sold in the UK because there is more profit to be made from selling mulitple inverters or a solar edge system.