Post and beam

No trouble at all actually. 10 weeks total, from submission to full planning. My sister and brother in law had permission on the same piece of land in 2016, that never went ahead. At that time east Herts were particularly difficult apparently. A single person by all accounts that has since retired. My brother in law was so worn down by the process that he accepted all of their restrictions just to secure some kind of permission. Smaller and simpler than he would ideally have liked but he was afraid to argue with them(Her)

Intrigued to know where but perhaps you dont want to say. We have recently got our planning permission for a house in Aston. Good to see a fellow Stevenage resident on the forum. Welcome. Can you just dig the footings for the permission which stops the timer doesn't it? And submit your extended application. Then, either way you wont run into the 2 or 3 year time limit.

Guys, i am not saying that they are unreasonable at all just putting the info out there. It does not suit my situation for the reasons i stated in my first sentence. This is the condition i have with my TF supplier and the timing. Not complaining about the TF company either, its just a co ordination issue for me.

They have so far declined to get involved. By the time i have the plans that they want i will have needed to make the call on which pump i need. In order to successfully quote for this property we would need you to provide architectural plans detailing ceiling heights, room dimensions, insulation, underfloor heating schematics showing pipe-run centre measurements and locations of manifolds, proposed floor finishes on UFH areas eg., Laminate, hardwood, ceramic tiles etc., proposed location of all radiators, glazing specifications and sizes of units of windows and doors, proposed site of ASHP and hot water cylinder, roof surface eg. Tiles etc. We would also require details of the electrical supply eg 1phase/3phase? Also we usually wouldn’t be able to design the hot water part of this system without knowing the standing and working pressures of the mains water supply as well as the flow rates of the water. We would need you to meet us on these requirements as we cannot specify an ASHP kw output for your property without calculating a full heat loss calculation for it.

Following the 'slow and low approach' to planning the UFH and Heat pump for my upcoming build i believe that close pipe centres at as low a temp as practical is the way to go. So, if i go with 100mm centres i doubt that i can accurately( if at all) lay the pipes required to a neat pattern. Not without the castellated panels anyway. I priced these this morning and it looks like it might be about £1.5k just for these. I understand that UFH installers are generally not keen on close pipe centres because it takes too long to lay. Does anyone know if this is actually true. Even if it is i think it might be better to just pay them what they need to spend the time to ensure a good job.

As per the OP figures, i have been quoted £21k ( excluding the £5k cash back) for a Nibe 11 kw by Nu-heat. and not much less for a Grant from 2 different suppliers. As it happens i spoke to a guy at the NEC show last weekend on the NIBE stand. I told him i wanted to buy his products but would not pay £21k ish. When he asked who the quote was from he just gave me a very knowing smile. He then said he would get me a quote from someone else from their suppliers list.

I have never previously heard of them but thought there was no harm in filling out their quote submission form. Who knows they may turn out to be good. Not too far from me in North hertforhsire.

The guy that did ours was in the house for no more than 15 minutes. I think it was/is pointless but a legal requirement.

F***, I just paid £90 for an EPC so that i can sell my current house before i start to build. That appears to be the going rate around here. Northern home counties.

This sounds like a lot. I have had a quote @ £7k All in but its for a branched system using Regavent and their own unit. I wont be using these people though, because A: If you see inside their unit it looks like total rubbish . B: They appear to insist on a branched system. C Having seen a partial install of theirs the ducting is held together with gaffer tape and untrimmed cable ties. So, i used the £7k figure, and costed a Brink 400, 90mm ducting and all the fittings @ approximately £5k. Which leave me £2k to install it myself and get some help in to finalise and commission/ get it signed off properly. Wish me luck

Hi Dude What do you think of them and their prices? I guess you re happy because you chose to use them. Anything else to say about the product.

Rawingtons from gloucestershire way We saw these guys at the NEC last weekend and quite liked the look of their offerings. Dont know anything about them, never heard of them before. Regards keith

Thanks dude, very comprehensive

Thank JohnMo, having read so much on here i thought i was on the right track. With regard to the quote selection above. I asked about high resolution thermostats for my current house when we had a new boiler fitter 2 years ago. I hate the amount of slop, or dead zone, associated with the 1 degree standard ones. I was told such a thing does not exist.

Yes i get that. I only want two zones total and am being advised that i need a zone for every downstairs room.

I had a chat with a prospective builder today and discussed MVHR, UFH and the desirablitity or otherwise of multiple zones for the UFH. Having read lots of threads on here about not needing zones and the fact that MVHR distributes the air anyway, i had pretty much decided that i wanted a zone for the living room and one for the rest of the ground floor. 2 total. Builder is telling me that you need zones so that the smaller rooms are not overheated by the dominating effect of the large living rooms heat needs.( 6m x 6m) Does not sound correct to me. Help please wise ones. Regards keith

My TF supplier, Potton Homes, put the roof on before the windows go in for just this reason. So they believe it to be the case. I dont know how long between the two operations though. I will find out later this year when they built it i guess.

TG 16 windows and 3 external doors. Front, utility and french doors to rear. Typical text in the schedule is like this Configuration: DLS/DKR 1230 1/2 1/2 Uw,N: 0.95 W/(m²K) n. EN ISO 10077-1 width: 1230 mm, height: 1050 mm width partition: 1, measurements: 1/2:1/2 i307028 Thermal insulation/Security glazing KlimaTherm 0.7 Secur-ai VSG (33.1) g-Value acc. to DIN EN 410 in percent: 49, Ug-value: 0.7 W/(m²K) Sound insulation value (glass): 36 dB Aluminium spacer type: vertical -/horizontal Bar 3 (24mm) colour of bars: outside M4 quartz grey wood structure / inside white number of horizontal bars: 1

Well spotted. They do make a big point of saying their windows are installed by their own employees and not contractors, so deffo a one stop shop. Actually this is an attractive feature of the company. Expensive on first round of haggle though.

I have a quote for their Afino Tec windows at £44500 + VAT, fitted. Sounds like a lot to me, do the window companies still play the silly games they always used to?

So cladding the outside is non structural. I suppose not if its not holding anything else up. The source for these bricks appear to be very consientious and grade out the bricks that aren't up to standard. I have heard all the stories about the really bad bricks being hidden in the pallet.

I believe i have read somewhere on here that getting a warranty on a new build might be problematic if we used reclaimed bricks to clad our Sips house. Is this correct or nonsense, did i understand it correctly? Regards keith

This is more of a question of ' what happens if....' In a very airtight house under conditions where a fire starts. If your MVHR unit has a shut down/seals off air supply does the fire extinguish before any real damage is done? The level of oxygen that will put a fire out is not that low and will certainly still support life. No i dont intend to put it to the test

What changed? You put filters in it What changed ? It stopped working Take the filters out completely and see if it spins up. Come back when you have done this test

So glad you said 'boats'. and not that other word. You'll know why