Moonshine

Could a sloppy written 0 have been mis read in hand writing as a 6?

sounds that is the case, even if they measured wrong in the first place then you signed off on the error 😐 How much is the replacement glass and how much to make the hole bigger?

looks better with the the cement board at the base rather than just the insulation and the loose cladding. Don't forget the insect mesh top and bottom of vertical battens Though i still have my own concerns about screwing through the PIR and those screws being unsupported for 30-50mm with the weight of the cladding.

i am looking to put a skylight / velux in a pitched roof and need a bit of what information building control needs and what alterations need to be made to the roof. The roof it 4 inch rafters at 400 cts This is a photo front a few years ago when we stripped it out internally and we battened out the rafters by 50mm so we could put 100mm insulation in the cavity and still have 50mm ventilation gap above the insulation. what do i need to do structurally to put the skylight in?

Ah now i see your plan, personally i don't like the idea of screwing through the PIR to support the battens and cladding, those screws will have 30mm unsupported and due to the weight of the cladding i would be worried about the screws bending / snapping over time. i think that based detail is a bit ugly / not robust, one with the PIR right down to the slab, and two the cement cladding board only supported at the top, i would be worried of it getting knocked and snapped. Also your breather membrane would be between your vertical battens and the PIR. I would look to put the PIR on the inside as then internally you would have a chance to cover the bricks at the bottom visually. There is a lot of PIR going into this build and i personally get the feeling its overkill for a garden room, second concern is framing in 4 x 2 strong enough? its taking a lot of roof weight? i did it in 5 x 2 and mine was 6m x 4.8m I wouldn't cast the threaded rods in at the same time as the concrete, i would come in after its cured and drill out holes and resin anchor the threaded bar in. You could do this after the bricks have gone in, but the concern would be getting enough resin down 150mm to slab for solid fixing. Your brick is going to have to make a few holes in bricks though.

You will get a cold bridge through the bricks, this is what I did, not that I am sayings it's right Edits, didn't see you had 30mm pir externally, no cold bridge but is the pir going between the vertical battens, if so its not going to work as you need ventilation for the cladding. Also will the external pir hold up especially at the base?

https://www.hse.gov.uk/safetybulletins/stackedboards.htm

if you have ever had a stack of plasterboard fall then yes there is a need for them, but the chances of a fall a slim though outcome could be significant (broken leg / crushing), hence its a risk that 'needs' to be mitigated, i think they are just a formalisation of a solution, that you could easily screw through the last few boards and tie rope back to the wall / timber frame. Doubt they are used much if at all.

could be a possibility, depends of there are any planning restrictions. and does look a bit workshop / commercial building like. Noise reduction of these isn't too bad at Rw ~24 dB, and you can get better performance if you add some more fluffy stuff and board internally. Also you could source these second hand?

sloppy rendering, i would get rid of those cowboys 🤣

i would confirm with BC what they want as it may be they want a FD30s (i would double checked). Have the door linings gone in? I got specific fire rated door linings (which are thicker) and have a groove rebated out for the intumescent strip which was about 15mm.

Its a great sound, plus i love the smell of gas in the morning. 😃 Have good safe fun!

we put ufh in the bathrooms to warm the tiled floor (a comfort thing), with rads in bedrooms.

i would speak to a number of different ones just to get different and contrasting views. An ASHP with suitable hot water cylinder / buffer tank should be fine throughout the year especially if its new build house with good insulation and airtightness. Where in the country are you?

minus the rebate as well

good luck with it, hopefully the planning is all in place and its just a question of getting on with it.

have you seen my profile picture 🤣

Also i would be inclined to ask on who's authorisation the works additional SE works were conducted under. I am a consultant in the building industry and if there is a design change from another consultant (e,g, mechanical consultant changing plant details) i don't commence with my re-assessment until i have had a chat with the end client (who is paying my bills) in relation to the design change/implications and their agreement on my additional fee (where its required). It sounds like the SE got the redesign request from the Basement company, the SE may have assumed that the Basement company had the authorisation of the design change from you, however they didn't talk to you and get authorisation from you (the bill payer) of agreement of additional works. This is assuming that there was a fixed scope of works for the initial design and it wasn't a rolling hourly rate contract. I would check the SE quote as i would like to think that its a fixed fee scope with hourly rates for additional works, but has a statement such as 'additional works will not be undertaken without written approval'

But why did it have to be redesigned in the first place

It would be interesting to know what the basement company fed back to the SE that warranted the design change, also had the basement company quoted the works based on the SE design? I would be livid that i had not been informed about design changes and cost implications. i agree that you can't comment on the design suitability as its not your area of expertise, but you should be informed of significant changes in design and costs and be brought into those discussions. I would have this niggling feeling that the basement company hadn't quoted correctly, and pushed back to the SE that it needs to have a different design due to a reason (maybe ground conditions) and it needed to be built a different way. Therefore a variation in works and an extra £30k. I may be paranoid but something doesn't seem right to me. TBH why is the basement company liaising with the SE without your involvement? Edit: surely the SE would have need your authorisation to carry out further work for the redesign, as they would need that to get paid

My basement is blockwork, 2 skins with a 200mm cavity which was core filed with concrete and mesh. Waterproofing externally and internally.

Clear it, will make the land seem a lot bigger and means people can see that putting a house on the plot is achievable

This was how I did it, but my slab wasn't insulated from below

How thick us the slab if it's 250mm above ground level? Can you see the slab edges? It is recommended that the timber sole plates are 150mm above ground level. When i built mine which the slab was level with ground I used two course of brick to bring it up 150mm. I would probably do the the same for yours personally

i don't think that there is any issue in that, the key thing is get the CIL exception form in and confirmed by the council prior to starting work on site. I wouldn't want to take the risk of site clearance being deemed starting work without the CIL exception in place