Moonshine

Assuming that the BCO is happy with the depth, i think trench fill is usually poured to 150 mm below the ground level

Has anyone got and idea of the cost comparison between a standard tarmac drive and a block paving drive? Block paving looks better but worried what the costs would be!

I am looking for a timber supplier for my build and out building. Can anyone recommend a supplier in the south west that does bulk deliveries. I presume i can get better rates rather than through the usual BM's

My existing house has lead pipe from the stop tap in the pavement to the house, i am creating a new water connection from the road to the existing house via MDPE. There will come a point where i will need to connect the MDPE to the existing lead pipe before it enters the house. What connector is needed for this? possible a DIY job or is it best to get a professional to do this connection due to the pressures involved?

Why not? the connection to the SVP or the bends?

This has been a long time coming for my build. Yesterday me and a helper moved 450 blocks (over 6 tons) into position between my beams. There are still block cuts to do, drainage, and the brickie to come back this week to do the mortar the edges / vents and grout..... but it feels great to have a solid floor after 5 months of commencement, it's been slow going due the complex basement phasing but hoping things can accelerate now.

This is why you use the puffer and bottle bush to make sure its sticking to the concrete, not a load of debris. This is a good guide

No this would be funny to see, imagine if there was a away to do a 'select all' / approve, it would cause chaos!

I couldnt think of them earlier, but devoran metals were also pretty good on price when I contacted them. https://devoran-metals.co.uk/

yes, they are the thermal breaks how do you find them in situ? what window spec did you have? Do they feel cold to the touch internally?

its an ALUK OPTIO 58BW-ST, which from the section drawings indicates that it has thermal breaks in the frame, i would have though this would have helped the performance, (the 1.9 Uf windows are fixed frames, and the 2.3 Uf windows are openable)

My preferred window provider has given me the following schedule for window selection u values, with the total U-values below (highlighting mine). To me it seems there are some windows that actually don't met the regs for a new build. The frames are aluminium, and its the frame performance which is causing the poor, are these typical values of alu frames?

That is a good shout on the 20mm to the garage, i will have a look at those connectors.

I am about to lay the trenches for a new water connection, and I want to split the water connection so one will go to an outside tap at an external garage before the main run goes to the house, as below. i presume there is no issue with doing this and its just case of using something like this? https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-mdpe-equal-tee-25-x-25-x-25mm/17141

I am about to place an order for my windows and ready made window liner / cavity closers (like below) from different places. What clearances should i have between the windows to the closer? I was thinking 15mm horizontally and vertically so for a window has an outer diameter of 1100 x 1125mm including the cil the ready made window liner / cavity closers internal dimensions would be 1115 x 1140mm. Thoughts?

I haven't, if you are stuck have a chat with dyfed steel in Cullompton, they are pretty keen on price, though their truck has no way to off load by its self on site (i used them). Hy ten in newton abbott are also about http://www.hy-ten.co.uk/

It would unlikely not be needed, i have emailed the highways officer to ask if a permeable surface (tarmac ultidrive porous) would be an suitable alternative specification. Soil is not very porous, also just measured it and there is no space for the soakaway to be 5m from a building and 2.5m from the boundary. Also no way to get it into the combined sewer. It looks like porous is the only sensible solution, lets hope highways also agree! ?

cheers, it looks like its the FM330 https://www.illbruck.com/en_GB/product/fm330-pro-foam-air-seal/

what rigid sheet material would be used? does it mean to fill void (min 50mm) around pipe with compressible sealant, what product would be used?

I am putting in a new driveway in, and it needs to have aco drains at the boundary and a soak away as specified by crossing licence. i need to get my head round the how big the soakaway needs to be and the depth of it. From my reading it needs to be at least 2.5m from the boundary as below (blue is the location of the aco), I am unsure of how big the soakaway needs to be (how many crates), what the depth below invert of the aco it needs to be. any help would be welcome

It's not small a plot, though I don't know why the garage is where it is and the house isn't further to the south to open up land to the north where the view is

I noticed the rippled effect too, I am sure that is not what the designer had in mind. Detracts from the look.

The opener is a house pretty near me and I pass it fairly often, it has a great spot and amazing views On the board out side it said something like, living in a sculpture. It's been in news locally stating that the original 800k budget ballooned to 2.5 million!!! Will be interesting to see.

I have loads of 20mm clean stone and sand on site. Rather than order in ballast what ratio of that should I mix in?

I need to do some lean mix cavity fill about 3-4 courses high, mixing with a cement mixer. What is the recipe?