CalvinHobbes

Did you have to get special lintels?

So complete newbie and just trying to get the timeline in my head for when I need the underfloor insulation. It's block build and we will have underfloor heating. So presumably the walls and roof go on first but still should I buy it sooner and try somewhere to store it.

So we are out of the ground and have a lot of building to do. With prices being what they are and inflation, we are focusing on the essentials. We would however like to put in PV at a future date and read the other day an article about a new way of printing them which should make them cheaper in the future and presumably fit on lighter roofs?. So I guess it makes sense to leave whatever wire/cable/emt in through the wall. Any tips? If we had green deal in NI I would be tempted.

What are the methods to lift blocks up on a site? Looking at the most cost effective options. What about a winch? My dad (deceased) left one in a container. I know he used it years ago on a site.

Did it work out OK?

Site tidied up too, don't ask how many lorry loads had to go. Got brickies lined up for Tuesday.

Conor, you should be writing a useful tips book for newbies like me. That's another one I have saved to the appropriate file.

The house will be block built have 150mm floor insulation and 200mm eps fill in walls, block build with triple glazing, air tight, wet plaster. The architect has planned underfloor heating, MVHR and ASHP but I was reading about the Daikin Multi + possibly with a battery to store off peak. Is that bonkers? Tbh trying to cut costs, got a plumbing quote for 22k.

I was told today by the surveyor that when the build is complete, you can claim developer exclusion from rates for a year. People in the rates office may not tell you of this!

With so many banks and companies on shaky ground, how do we know warranty providers will exist? Thinking of using CMLC Ltd. Is there a guarantee scheme?

Just wondering, did you ask your architect? We have a quote for CMLC Ltd for 2k and I am wondering how much the architects charge for a cert and if it's as good? Also I have a notion houses started before the end of 2022 - even if demolishing don't need warranty by law but those who start 2023 are obliged to have a warranty. Did I dream that?

Just wondering which kind of roof to put on the house and price is a factor. Anyway, was in Lidl in a heavy downpour and the noise would deafen you. Is it the same in domestic properties? This is what's on the plans. To underside of sloped and flat ceilings provide 15mm plasterboard with skim finish fixed to 35 x 50mm s/w battens to provide 50mm deep service cavity over Pro Clima Intello Plus airtight vapour control memebrane with all joints lapped min 150mm & sealed with Pro Clima Tescon Vana airtight adhesive tape on 50mm thick Xtratherm / Kingspan PIR rigid insulation board (t/c 0.022W/mk) fixed in accordance with the manufacturers instructions to underside of the rafters. Airtight barrier to be turned down wall and sealed per manufacturers recommendations. Completely fill between rafters with Isover Metac Roll 031 (t/c 0.031W/mk).

I have the accent, mind you so do most round here.

Thanks for that ToughButterCup, it's staying in front of me.🤣

I have started getting prices and there is quite a lot of variation. Please can you tell me some good phrases to use? At the moment I have been saying 'yikes, that's too much - can you reduce it?' I need more gravitas or something.

Hows it going now? Thinking of changing.

Just ringing round for quotes and I see eco joists on the plans. I know I am allowed to use equivalents so just trying to get terminology right. May I look at posi joists?

Digger on site so guessing will restart soon. Stupid question from a greenie: how are bison slabs positioned? Site is sloping, I see we have a retaining wall to be put in the middle. Thank heavens we have a great groundsman.

They determined shallow foundations will be ok, soil good. Because its a sloping site it turns out finished floor level will be 1.4 above ground at the front end. So we will need bison slabs for the front half. We have quite a lots of bricks from the demo to lose. Yes some are being used for the entrance , we will get some broken stone to put on top so it isn't a mud bath. Groundsman suggested we could put some under the front of the building. Question is. I am still concerned there could be the fungus from the dry rot in the brick (no wood)and it will work its way up over 10+ years. I would love to save money but is it too risky?

Spoke to accountant, he said if they have worked in UK before they are likely registered. I know to check they have their own insurance as well to work in North.

I agree, I thought an 8 tonne would have done it but thats what the guy has and we have the rubble from the 2 cottages to move as well, going to put it in the corner (where the garage was planned - we are just doing the 2 houses, red on the plan is where the cottages were) till the end when it might be needed plus the surveyor will be out as well as the engineer . The surveyor wants levels as near as poss so was hoping it would be done quicker with the bigger digger. Hoping to goodness we get away with the shallow foundations. The goundsman thinks the ground looks good so cross fingers.

Have to ensure engineer is present to tell digger driver where to do the test holes so he can provide a foundation layout. Architect thinks they will be shallow foundations but I guess it depends where the hard ground is.Hoping it's a quick turnaround because the digger can't sit for long (3 days max). Also surveyor has to show up too while he is there to mark it out including levels. The sloping site is definitely more of a challenge. Still, pleased it's happening and I have confidence in them.

My father insisted. He has now passed. I think we will push the boat out and go for it. So Baskil is looking likely.

If you had someone in the US I would be tempted to get them to post on some of these... https://www.wyze.com/

Hello, in the North. Have been recommended people from over the border. Its a new build and we will source products needed. Wondering about vat. Do they have to be vat registered in the North? New Build is zero-rated, which means that a VAT registered builder or subcontractor must zero-rate their work and not charge VAT on any labour-only or supply and fix contracts.