CotswoldDoItUpper

I have 3 weeping slowly from the tails one of which is also weeping from the compression joint. ugh.

Update. I’m giving up. I’ve put 30 turns on some and all followed all bits of various advice now. To the point where the olives are over compressed. Going to start again with new olives and nuts on these bad boys: https://www.screwfix.com/p/bsp-male-x-15mm-compression-rigid-trv-extension-piece-65mm-2-pack/10954 hopefully the rubber o-ring will stop any leaks! Will still liberally apply PTFE as a belt+braces approach!

Can anyone recommend a window supplier/fitter in the Cotswold (Stroud/Cirencester) area? It’s a bit tricky because we don’t know for certain what we want, more likely can afford. Replacing 20+yr old uPVC with blown panes. Have 12 windows and large (2.6m) French doors to do. Not fussed on material, but would prefer a traditional flush casement look with thin-ish sight lines. Any recommendations or advice gratefully received!

Comical! What’s the ‘standard’ space required in front of a pan? I thought it was about 600mm?

Doesn’t matter on the solution as long as problem is solved! Well done!

It could be a solid door that’s been veneered in oak, therefore a solid oak door. We’ve been caught out by this sort of misleading description before. Hope for your sake it’s not!

Whether or not it is right, it doesn’t look right to have a join like that.

The expert on this is @nod…

Ooo bet that put his nose out of joint!

It appears that way yes. I don’t think the guy who wired it in (I guess) the mid-late 80s had earthing sleeve no. No sign of it on any of the outlets anywhere in the house!

The other cable is a single socket about half a m away that is connected to this one. So yes @Temp those are the additional wires in the back box. The reason they are disconnected is just me trying to isolate the problem. I haven’t yet been killed in 15+ years of changing plug sockets/light switches but thank you, I shall continue to be careful and have turned the RCD back off after taking the pictures. I assumed it would be a job for an electrician, but thought it prudent to check with the vast knowledge on here before I spend hard earned £! Thanks all!

I have a plug socket that hasn’t worked since we moved in (6months or so) I assume it’s a dodgy socket so today replaced it. When testing the cables I notice that my electrical screwdriver has a strong light when touched to the live cable, but also a weak light when touched to the neutral and earth. I think this is why the socket isn’t working! No switches have tripped on our (admittedly 1990s) fuse board. any recommendations for a solution? thanks!

Or a competitor trying to nab customers!

Great minds! Tho our chaise is in the bedroom. In Vienna last year, bathroom (wet room!) had glass walls. Yup. Full translucent glass.

Don’t worry about having to walk through the dressing room. We have the same and find it keeps the bedroom tidier (fewer clothes dumped in random piles) and quieter and more private. Our en-suite also opens off our dressing room. It’s not something we’ve ever worried about tho the experts ( @ETC, @CharlieKLP ) might disagree!

There is a huge amount of info on here and everyone has their own opinions/success stories/nightmare tales etc. each system has its pros abs cons. As a starter you may need to decide between woodcrete and eps. good luck! If I was building I would use ICF, probably a woodcrete system.

Just want to say that I really enjoy these threads. Seeing everyone’s opinion come together to help guide design is great. Thanks to all those qualified peeps who spend their time doing it for free (and obv have a passion and enjoy it). Thanks!

Ok so I’ve done 21 turns as per @Nickfromwales advice. Here goes… they’re all from here: https://www.radiatoroutlet.co.uk/1800-x-383mm-white-vertical-traditional-3-column-radiator tails/valves from screwfix. TRVs from Hive. @tonyshouse I don’t need 2 bar, was just a check to see if they were holding pressure ok. Will pressurise properly when I know they work.

I’ve got my new rads in, plumbed, attached etc etc. I fill. Tails leak. I drain. I re-do tails with 12 clockwise turns of PTFE (previous was 6 turns) I fill. Tails weep. I drain. I clean and re-do tails with a good smear Fernox LS-X and PTFE tape. I fill. 5 of 6 fine (at 1bar, didn’t get to 2!) 1 horrendous. I drain. what next?!? More PTFE and more Fernox? Getting a bit pissed offed now. Not had this issue with other rads before. And obv no heating whilst it’s all off. Added pressure from SWMBO because she’s cold. Help!

Afaik the tank owner (supplier) services the tank during the contracted period. Then if you wish to switch supplier the new supplier buys the tank etc from the old supplier. When I switched from Flogas they sold the tank (and my custom) to Avanti Gas. I was out of contract with Flogas so this was possible. I guess they could have refused to sell the tank, but I don’t know how that would work.

I only did it mid way thru January. Call them and ask! I was offered: 34p+vat from Avanti Gas and 35p+vat from Flogas

We had a similar retro-fit requirement and went for ring cameras. They seem simple to set up and can access from anywhere in the world.

So why have I been quoted £14-16k by three different companies for an ASHP and DHW cylinder?!? Surely the addition of a cylinder can’t be an additional £13k?!?

I think that at the moment just spend the difference on insulation/air tightness. That’s surely the ‘greenest’ thing to do - use less energy whatever the source!

£66+vat annual standing charge. Owned by supplier.