richo106

Thank you!! @Iceverge I really like this idea, I will put it to my builder/roofer. I know it will cost a lot more but will save a lot of time and money internally Many Thanks

Thank you @Redbeard I think the best option for me now is the MVHR house I will make sure I pay good attention to where the ducts and cables go through the ceiling I will scour the build hub website for inspiration for a MVHR house if any has done one before and got a photos or ‘drawings’ /doodles it would be great to see Thanks again

I have just spoken to my roofer, he said he can do a warm loft but would make the soffit/fascias big and bulky which we don’t want. The roofer was right in saying the architect needs to design in warm roofs to make them work etc So we can’t do a fully warm roof/loft Is there another method we could use to create warm roof? Roofer suggested PIR and foamed in gaps between rafters leaving 25mm and then 50mm PIR overlay. The only issue with this is cost, I can imagine this method will cost a lot more than 400mm of loft insulation originally planned I am guessing the MVHR distribution box and ducts sit under the 400mm insulation and then the MVHR unit sits on top of insulation on some floorboards/legs etc It’s just my air tightness detailing for cabling/ducting that will have to come through the upstairs ceiling

Yes I meant warm loft definitely The example you have given is for a flat roof, is this the same method used on a pitched roof with tiles? Many Thanks

Hi All We are at the stage when we are sorting the roof. We have a couple of bedrooms with vaulted ceilings, flat roof section and ‘normal’ sections. The plan was do a cold loft with 400mm insulation, vaulted ceilings with 120mm between rafters and 50mm over the top (below) with taped joints. We are having MVHR and planning on installing it in the loft, but I’ve reading a lot on this forum and can the positives definitely in having a warm roof I am going to speak to my roofer but could any suggest a typical build up of a warm roof please Any advice/information greatly appreciated

Does sound good but expensive haha. With an ridiculously stretched budget that might be a stretch too far but that would be ideal

We are yes, well roof is going on in about 4 weeks i have looked at warm roofs but think I won’t be able to afford it unfortunately What is the make up of your warm roof if you don’t mind me asking? Many Thanks

Hi All All being well my shell will be complete in the next 8-10 weeks with all windows, doors, roofs etc installed I am having a cold roof space When would be a good time/at what stage to do a first DIY air test? All my windows/doors will be taped from frame to blockwork I have had traditional joists sat on the inner block, these have been sealed round with the mortar but aware of shrinkage etc.. what is the best way to combat this? Air tight paint sealing all edges? My floor make up will be slab, 200mm PIR and then 50mm screed....is this best to air tight paint the perimeter junction? What is the best foam to use to seal cables, pipes and waste pipes going through the brick and block? I was thinking about taping pipes also My biggest concern is the first floor ceiling, i will have many spot lights and MVHR ducts travelling through it, I am happy to tape all ducts. Do I need a membrane stapling to joists before plasterboarding? Any advice on any issues raised much appreciated Many Thanks

I was just wondering if I need cavity closers? In my new extension I have 100mm cavity with 90mm PIR (Thermaclass). Do I just need standard (non insulated) cavity closers on these? In my original house I have 70mm cavity that will be blown EPS Any advice/information and recommendations on cavity closers and best way to fit them will be very much appreciated All the brick/block work is in place so need to be retrofitted Many Thanks

I am not familiar with the rationel range but we was toying with RAL 7038 is like a quartz grey

Hi All We are getting two quotes from local renderer's One uses EcoRend monocouche render and the other one uses Johnson 1.5mm Silicone render Which render type is considered better? Speaking to them I don't think there is going to be much difference in cost All advice and information greatly appreciated as always Many Thanks

Hi All I have decided to go with the Huepar 603CG. I think this is exactly what I am looking for, for the price and functionality I think its worth a try! With the options to buy the extras also appealing Thanks for all the comments/advice very much appreciated

Update: Hi All and thanks again for all who posted I used some photos when moved in to prove it was empty and furnished, thankfully they agreed with me. So my property was only classed as empty and unfurnished from when I bought it June 21. I won't have to pay the back dated 300% premium but just the normal rate until July this year when I am subject to the 100% premium I didn't want to comment on here until I had my new council tax bill in writing Thanks again

Hi all My very old laser level has finally gave up the ghost and I need a new one for when I start on the internal fit out. I’ll be needing one for socket heights, spotlight layout, fitting kitchen units, installing stud walls etc… Can any one recommend one at all? One them keeps cropping up is a budget one called a Huepar. https://uk.huepar.com/products/huepar-3x360-3d-laser-level-green-cross-line-laser-self-leveling-147ft-45m-large-power-903cg Happy to consider any recommendations though Many Thanks

Hi All I have just been thinking about our build regarding our soil stacks. At the start of the build we decided to put the soil stacks externally without much thought If I’m being honest. I am not sure I have made the right decision to go external, there is going to 2 stacks both the sides of the house so not in direct view. Is it better to run them internally or externally? We are now have a string course around the house and worry this means we will have to set the soil pipe over that too! Any comments welcome

Nope, only built up to just above first floor height. The builders want to me install the floorboards (Egger - Peal & Clean) ASAP so they can work of it to make it easier to work on the first floor

Hi All I am planning to lay my floorboards with the egger adhesive tomorrow, the temperature range for my area is -1 to 3 degrees throughout the day I have tried to find somewhere online if it says anything about installing floorboards in cold temperatures but is doesn't The only thing it mentions is storage temperature between 5 - 25 degrees which is fine, my plan is to keep the glue warm and just bring out a bottle at time to use Is this ok? I am planning to towel dry each joist before fixing to it any way Any advice/information greatly appreciated

Hi All I have just had an interesting phone call with a company called solarcrest who could me with my airtightness and insulation levels in my new build used spray insulation I mentioned my concerns with it regarding building regs and mortgage companies but he said they have the DDA certificate or something I just wondered if any had any dealings with this company or spray foam in general? My gut feeling is to steer clear due to some uncertainties Many Thanks

Thank you! definitely an option to consider I just worry about getting my battens all level and plumb

One option I did think of was to have 25mm battens with 25mm PIR between, then 25mm PIR over the top with all joints taped etc. Then screw my plasterboard through the 25mm PIR into the studs.

Hi All To get to my target u value of 0.18 I need to install 50mm backed plasterboard (62.5mm) My plan was to just dot and dab on the majority of the walls to overcome any unevenness in the existing walls, am i right in thinking that dab is around 12.5mm thick? I was thinking for mounting my sockets using 40mm wood and then 35mm back boxes to make it up to 70mm...is this the best way of doing it? The wall will be parged first before dotting and dabbing What is the best way to hang TV's on insulated plasterboard? (if any) I have one wall that will have a row of kitchen units on, what we would be the best way to have 50mm PIR insulation on this wall but also give me a good fixing for my kitchen units? I need to work this out so i have accurate measurement for my kitchen design Any information/advice greatly appreciated

Hi All Now that my joists have been installed I now have my stairs opening in situ. I need to mark a cut line for the builders I have attached my drawing of how I think I should mark it out for them Is this the way people would do it? Is It OK to leave plenty of room so it doesn't foul on the existing wall? Or would it better to take the wall straight down and then re-build up in stud once the stairs are in place? All advice and information greatly appreciated Many Thanks Stairs Cut.pdf

Hi all again I have installed all my joists this weekend, just got plenty of noggins, restraints and strongbacks to add tomorrow. I will be installing the floorboards next weekend just have a couple of questions if anyone can offer some advice. I have attached a picture of my joists and highlighted in red the block walls and then the stud walls that will be on the floor boards in light blue. where the joists are going to same way through a door way do I just do it like laminate flooring and carry it through? Where the joists changed direction through door ways, how and where would I join that? same question really about where and how to join boards on change in direction on joists? Any advice and information greatly appreciated

Merchant price was double the price that’s all but did say it would do 9 sheets however still only 1kg bottle D4 protect glue 1kg bottle should glue approx. 9 sheets £15.68 + vat.

Just want to double check the glue I buy before I buy it Is this the correct glue? https://www.stick2products.co.uk/products/d4-glue-chipstick-d4-liquid-pu-foaming-chipboard-adhesive?variant=44103279903021&currency=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&utm_medium=adwords&utm_campaign=&utm_source=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMInK3Ww8fE_AIVPBoGAB06ZQWxEAQYAiABEgIdsPD_BwE This works out at £9.16 incl VAT a bottle 17 bottles (86 sheets)