richo106
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Everything posted by richo106
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Hi all I have made a start on my vaulted ceilings. I now have 100mm PIR in between the rafters and 100mm PIR underneath. I have taped all my PIR joints with foil tape, I have foamed the edges of the boards and plan to air tight it to wall plate and block wall. Will this be sufficient for air tightness or is it best to put a vcl over my battens and them tape that the wall instead? My plan was to just use a VCL strip down the middle bit
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Currently they have quoted for a thermostat in most of the rooms, 13 in total. Is there anything specific needed for building regs?
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Hi all I am getting to the stage in my build where I am considering thermostat locations/control I am aiming for air tightness of 3, having MVHR installed, ASHP, UFH ground floor in screed, UFH first floor using spreader plate. Insulation level are 0.18 walls and 0.12 floor and ceilings I am happy with the layout for the UFH (attached) but my question is that is it necessary for each room to have its own thermostat? Or would it be ok to have 1 thermostat per floor? And where would these be located? I have never had ASHP or UFH, is it best just to leave the thermostats set at say 20 degrees and not touch then? All information appreciated
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I tried to explain to him and shown him some examples, his concern was how does he know a 50mm air gap was maintained throughout? And he has never signed a vaulted ceiling off that didn't use PIR between the rafters I decided this wasn't a battle worth pursuing and it would only take me a day to correct so thought best to keep him on side as he will be looking after my project to the end now
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I have just had a meeting with my BC officer (a new one for my job) and he is not happy with the slab insulation between the rafters no matter how I much i tried to put my case across. To keep everyone happy I am now installing 100mm between the rafters and 100mm underneath (I have already cut some 100mm so cheaper to do it this way) When I fit in them between the rafters do I have to foam and tape over the joints or just foam and tape over the 'top' (under the rafter) layer? Slightly annoyed about this as I spent all Sunday doing one room but he was not having it and not worth the argument this time Many Thanks
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First Floor air tight membrane advice
richo106 replied to richo106's topic in General Construction Issues
Thank you -
First Floor air tight membrane advice
richo106 replied to richo106's topic in General Construction Issues
Does this stick to block work or do I need primer? -
First Floor air tight membrane advice
richo106 replied to richo106's topic in General Construction Issues
The finish is going to be boarded -
First Floor air tight membrane advice
richo106 replied to richo106's topic in General Construction Issues
Hi @Iceverge I am just referring back to this post as I am getting to the point now. What is the best way to fix it to the underside of the joists? Staple and then tape over them? Do you tape each joint air tight tape? Any recommendations? Do I also tape the the end to the block wall also? Just looking at air tight tape…not cheap is it Any advice/information greatly appreciated -
My thoughts exactly
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I have made a start today on my vaulted ceilings and was just having a browse on the internet. The roofer has used rubershield pro on my roof https://www.ikogroup.co.uk/product/iko-rubershield-pro/ As this is a permeable membrane do I still need to leave a 50mm air gap? Or have a misunderstood this? Kind Regards
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I have pushed my PIR tight up to my block work when laying the PIR over the rafters. Would people recommend using airtight tape from the PIR to the blocks to make a perfect seal? If so, what tape would you recommend? Many Thanks
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I decided to go for it and place the order Thursday and it’s all being delivered on Monday. I am more than happy to send some photos of some components if you would like me to, this is the first time I’ve ever dealt with UFH so I wouldn’t be able to comment too much on quality as had nothing to compare it too
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One issue I have come across is the Isover APR insulation is that it is pre cut at 600 but my joist centres are 400. would it be better to use standard loft insulation (isover space saver) that is perforated at 400mm? I know the acoustic performance won’t be as good but will it more suitable to install?
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One option I thought was to install my UFH spreader plates and then push up 100mm Isover APR insulation up to it https://insulation-uk.com/products/isover-acoustic-partition-roll-apr-1200 Then install my MVHR ducting and cabling/pipes etc...
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Hi All As you have probably noticed from my other posts I am sorting my quantity and type of insulation required. I want to insulate between ground and first floor I have 225mm posi joists, there will be UFH spreader plates (installed from below) MVHR ducting and all other services (cabling, pipes etc..) What is the best insulation between floors? and guessing I would install all services and then push the insulation in around everthing? Many Thanks
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Hi All I am planning on using metal stud for a couple bedroom and landing partition walls I was planning on using 70mm stud but the builder has plenty of 50mm stud that he doesn't want and said I could have My plan was to use the 50mm stud, 2 x 12.5mm soundbloc plasterboards either side with 50mm acoustic insulation in the middle Would this be suitable? Many Thanks
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Ground floor screed is 50mm thick with 200mm PIR beneath First floor is spreader plates Quite well insulated, ceilings are 0.12 and walls are 0.18
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I am in the process of ordering all my stuff for the UFH (upstairs and downstairs). I have been quoted for Heatmiser Neostat v2, NeoHub Gen 2 I have been looking through the forum and I have seen people have had issues with these thermostats…one issue being the backlight randomly coming on. Could anyone recommend any other possible thermostats that would do the same thing? I would like them wired and be able to control via smartphone Many Thanks
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Hi All I am just sorting out my loft insulation out I have 8" x 2" ceiling joists and I am thinking 200mm Isover spacesaver between joists and 200mm isover spacesaver over the top...does that seem a normal way to do this? The I need to cover is 78m2...is it just a case of ordering 156m2 of 200mm Isover spacesaver insulation? I have looked into warm roof but this is the way we have decided to go Many Thanks
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Vaulted ceiling joinery help
richo106 replied to richo106's topic in Lofts, Dormers & Loft Conversions
That is perfect! Thanks again @Iceverge -
I will having insulation (rockwool type) between the rafters and then 100mm PIR underneath so was going to use the battens to firmly hold the PIR on and give me a batten for the PB to fix to and a service void if needed Or i could just screw the plasterboards direct to rafters (through PIR with 150mm drywall screws) Many Thanks
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Regarding battening and plasterboarding Would people recommend battening horizontally at 400 centres (using 3 x 1" timber) Would then using a single 12.5mm standard wallboard be OK to board the ceilings with? Or would it be better to batten vertically (to follow rafters at 600 centres) and use 15mm wall board? Any advice greatly appreciated Many Thanks
