richo106

I won’t mention I’ve got my new shiny oak front door has a u value of 2.0🙈 things like this really highlights how much I don’t know what I’m doing 😂 I have attached a picture of my front, would the whole thing be treated as one? It has triple glazed (42mm) solar glass but the oak door is 57mm thick with only 20mm PIR in

They have sent through the certificate, they are ringing me back regarding the install

So the dab on the window side would sit on the cavity closer? Would the fitting be that secure? I have read it a few times but can’t exactly understand what you mean. 🙈

I have spoken to the window company and they said they always fit them like that due to getting a fixing into the cavity closer. The u value of the windows are 1.3, this is best we could get for the style of window we wanted

I did know, I am just trying to find it on the blurb/emails

Thank you. Does part L of the building regs apply to all building whether it’s an extension or new builds? Or just new builds? Our project is classed as an extension, even though I am going to speak to the window guys this morning but I was just wondering Many Thanks

Oh right, thanks for bringing this up. I have a quick look on the internet and as your picture shows does the window need to sit at least 30mm over the cavity?

Good Idea!...Thank you Looking at it, I might use tape to seal the window to the cavity closer but then use the paint for the rest. This is to ensure I get no paint on the visible area of the window

The tape I have is 80mm, i think its 30/50mm split off the top of my head I don't think window 1 is very clear..there is no cavity closers on the bottom or top of this window (in hindsight there should of been!) So I am not sure what to now regarding this, any ideas?

Thanks for your reply @nod The only reason i was going to parge is because some walls will be battened and screwed. I will be doing the plasterboarding so will take extra care anyway. I am guessing I can't dab onto the cavity closer so how would I do my plasterboard reveals? J Bead? https://www.gyproc.ie/products-systems/products/gyproc-drywall-metal-edge-bead - A chap at work ( I work for British Gypsum) said they have screwed the J beads into the windows and then slot the board in and dab in the inside course? I am not sure how i feel about this...

Hi All Once again I am after some advice from BH, this time it is on how to best to install the window reveals with air tightness in mind All external walls will be parge coated and I have the split tape and brick/block adhesive I have 2 different scenarios, I have attached both pictures and ideally need advice on both if possible On window no.1 the cavity (above and below) is going to be filled with sprayed EPS beads, I also need to install 50mm PIR backed plasterboard on that wall ideally Window no.2 - the cavity is filled with PIR (thermaclass 21) and as you can see has cavity closers Any advice and ideas would be very helpful as I have not done this kind of detailing on windows before (normally just dot/dabbed the reveals in) Many Thanks

Would my building inspector be able to advise on this?

Thanks Dave good ideas there! I have attached some more photos of how it joins the pitched roof. As you can see there is a good gap through above the PIR in the pitched roof…if I kept a 50mm air gap on the flat roof would this give good enough ventilation you think? I could install the 9 air tiles as you said?

I will send some more pictures over later, ill take some tonight. Pretty sure the furring strips go to nothing Ermm the roof was sorted by the builders with their roofing guy, I spoke to the roofer yesterday and he said as long as there is a 50mm air gap you are fine, obviously it doesn't seem as simple as this

This doesn't sound promising! Any suggestions how to go about this going forward? Many Thanks

I have attached a couple of photos of the outside I can ensure there is at least 50mm air gap above the insulation that is no problem, there is no vents in it that I am aware of No the upstand is definitely not deep enough to get the same u value - made with 100 x 50mm battens. Yes I want to do it properly definitely and happy to do whatever to ensure there isn't any build up of damp/mould

Due to the design and the glass front we are having we already needed around a 400mm Fascia so didn't want an even larger one

Could I use knauf omnifit insulation instead on the blown cellulose? I am trying to DIY this plus I have some left over omnifit. Or I have 200mm standard Isover spacesaver loft insulation? Do I need to ensure there is an air gap?

My next dilemma is how to insulate between the joists. I also need to run my MVHR ducts through this area

The outside is already got rubber on I have updated my drawing

Something like this?

I’ve just been looking through Buildhub at flat roof insulation and now I am even more confused!