richo106

Thank you all for the comments, definitely gave us something to think about and where we go next. Bedroom 5 is going to be office, regarding the jack and jill Bedroom 2 will be our dressing room/walk in wardrobe so will only be used by us and not as a bedroom. Even though we have no neighbours to the left our boundary is about 5/6m with quite tall trees and bushes. yes the door will be moved in the kitchen so it goes into the ‘salon’. It won’t be a salon on the plans, it’s more of room that my wife does hair sometimes now and then. Comments around the chimneys have put slight doubt in my mind now, but we are wanting some kind of fire/log burner in the main kitchen area maybe. we like the idea of the large doors at the back, more than likely it will be a sliding door, the large window the other side of chimney breast can be altered

Yes correct on the dark grey/light grey walls Neighbour on garage side but trees on left. Nice views out the front, 12 meters back from road..small village road. Out the back decent sized garage, view is side of one house and a church…no privacy issues Planning to be forever home Cheers

Appreciate all the comments so far, very useful! I have attached a photo to show north

Yes that is a possibility, as soon as we get plans finalised/passed going to see the best way to achieve it Many Thanks

Hi This is our first design of our bungalow extension I am welcome to any comments/thoughts on these design/plans Thanks in advance

Hi We will completely renovating/extending our 1960s bungalow, currently our ground floor is tongue and groove floorboards on 50 x 100mm joists with around 450-600mm (maybe more in places) The kitchen currently (4 x 3m) is concrete floor...that's uneven and need levelling The whole of the ground floor will either tiles or wood flooring My plan is to rip up all the floorboards and insulate between the joists, I am not sure which insulation to use. The options I was thinking is: 1. Use 100mm kingspan/celotex and fitted tightly between each joists 2. Rockwool insulation fitted between each joist I have been reading about a DPM barrier, where would this be installed Would 18mm 8ft x 2ft floorboard be suitable to relay on top of the joists and tile directly onto? I am just worried about the floor being solid so it doesn't bounce (and damage grout/tiles) I have been trying to look into this online but struggling to find any definitive answers. We may also want UFH for about half the area I am happy to pay for expert advice on this on to how to go about it Many Thanks

Hi I have now exposed the foundations for our bungalow we are hoping to add another storey to. There are 9 brick layers below the engineering brick line then 8inch of the concrete foundations below that. This protrudes 5inch from the brick line. (see attached photos) I have spoken briefly with my builder and he is under the impression that even though the foundation is not as deep as desirable the fact that's its around 450mm in width he thinks we will be able to get away with the existing foundations for adding another storey I will be trying to contact my structural engineer tomorrow to confirm this but I just wondered if anybody on here has any experience with these kind of footings and if my builder was right? All advice and information greatly appreciated

Hi Has anybody got any recommendations for PoE cctv system We want to install some now in our bungalow before the main renovations starts in a couple of years. I want to install some good ones now so I can re-use them in the future build I like the idea of PoE cameras due to ease of install and reliability of signal etc.. Do they normally come as a kit? does the recorder produce the PoE or will i need a separate network switch Thanks in advance

We are in the early stages of designing our bungalow extension/conversion. We have some plans (first draft) so have a good idea of what we want to do Obviously I need to expose the foundations of the existing bungalow as we plan on adding a full new floor Who would I get round to check these foundations who could tell me if they are suitable for what we propose? Or what I need to do to make them suitable etc Sorry for the daft question but something I need to know Many Thanks

Has anybody used express bifolds as they seem to offer a lot of the stuff we need?

We finally have some plans back for our proposed extension/remodel. Glazing is going to be a big cost to the project, we would like a large full height glass entrance. Along with other large windows and sliding doors etc. At the minute we are favouring the black slimline window/glass style. Can anyone recommend any companies/suppliers etc to go and visit and obtain quotes for from drawings. We are based in the midlands but obviously more than happy to travel. Many Thanks

Hi We are planning to have an extension in the next 18 - 24 months at our bungalow, where the extension will go there is a large ish tree there at the minute. Obviously this tree will be removed before works starts but my mate made a comment in passing saying that he thought trees needed to be removed 2 years before work starts? Is there any truth in this? Or am I ok just to remove tree prior to work starting? Many Thanks

Hi In the next year or so we will begin a major renovation/extension on our bungalow I am an electrician (industrial) by trade and dealt with cat 5/RJ45/Data cabs etc a little bit in the past. I have read on the forum and tried to work out what I will require I was thinking 2 x data points to each bedroom(likely TV locations), 4 data points to main tv point I would like to install wired CCTV so cable to each camera point (can any recommend a wired CCTV system with nice looking cameras?) I also thought about WIFI extender or something like that to make sure the whole house is covered...what hardware would I need for this? Would you wire everything back to a central point, patch panel for each cable and then a switch? How would a sky router link into a network switch? Would I need sky to install phone/tv/boardband point in the same location as patch panel? I would like to incorporate home automation in the renovation like door bell, heating control, lights etc but would like all be controlled over wifi? Is there anything else anyone would recommend? Sorry for the simple questions but I want plan exactly what I need as early as possible Many Thanks

Thats just a method I have seen online when doing my research, have you any other methods that would work? Thanks

Have you any methods to help it be rigid enough as you can imagine I don't want the tiles cracking!?

We have just bought a 1960's bungalow with a suspended floor, the gap underneath ranges from 700-400mm. The joists are currently 50 x 100mm My plan for the renovation was the installed UFH throughout on the ground, between the joists I would lay 75mm kingspan insulation, then clipping UFH pipes then screed 25mm up to the level on the joists. Then floorboard/tile board for tiles to be laid on. I was just wondering if the joists would be strong enough to hold this extra weight? They are supported underneath at intervals by brick walls (with air gaps) but not sure exactly how far apart yet until I do further investigation What are peoples initial thoughts? How would they go about this? Many Thanks

We have just bought a 1960's bungalow with a suspended floor, the gap underneath ranges from 700-400mm. The joists are currently 50 x 100mm My plan for the renovation was the installed UFH throughout on the ground, between the joists I would lay 75mm kingspan insulation, then clipping UFH pipes then screed 25mm up to the level on the joists. Then floorboard/tile board for tiles to be laid on. I was just wondering if the joists would be strong enough to hold this extra weight? They are supported underneath at intervals by brick walls (with air gaps) but not sure exactly how far apart yet until I do further investigation What are peoples initial thoughts? How would they go about this? Many Thanks

Thanks for all the comments I will be definitely be insulating the property as well as I can. I have been looking into insulating the suspended floor before UFH, the method I've seen is that battening under the joists, laying kingspan in the joists leaving room to clip the UFH pipes to and then screed(or similar) up to the level of the joists. Would I need to do anything else? Or is there better ways of doing this? Would 5" joists be suitable for this? If I was to tile onto this what would I fix over the top of the UFH/Joists? Sorry for all the questions I am just trying to get my head around it all Many Thanks

I would love to be able to knock it down and rebuild. But the budget just wouldn’t allow it I don’t think. When I get the plans through from the architect I am going to explore both avenues

Thanks for your replies! Our budget is very tight for what we are hoping to achieve so any money saved anywhere is a big help. I have never installed anything like this in any of my previous projects so just need some expert advice that's why I thought nu-heat may be a good place to start. I am based in between Nottingham and Leicester so if any has any recommendations for companies that would also be good.

Hi We have just bought a bungalow that we will be completely renovating, it has been empty for 10 years. It currently has an old oil tank and ancient oil boiler which is no use. We are in the design stage at the minute but we will be adding another story (either full or half), ground floor is majority joisted and floorboard with 600/700mm gap underneath. There is one room concrete floor which will need breaking up and re doing anyway. We will be adding an extension on the side to increase ground area. At the minute we would like Wet UFH throughout the ground floor, I am looking into all available heating options. Would people also have wet UFH throughout upstairs too, under carpets? Can you run normal rads off ASHP? Ive been recommended to speak to Nu-Heat has anybody dealt with these? I am an electrician and quite happy so confident with DIY...would this be DIY'able? Basically the question is what would people do? Would you install a new oil boiler system or an ASHP? And the reasons why? or any other heating/dhw solutions? How noisy are the ASHP? The build won't be starting for at least another 18months so will miss the RHIi deadline but reading today that there will be a new scheme called clean heat grant opening in april 2022 All information and advice greatly appreciated Many Thanks

I think we will be sticking with the joists and floorboards etc, but I will be taking up the floorboards to insulate so I don't this would be an issue if we was to go with UFH I just don't know which way to go for the best This being said regarding insulation the rest of the house, I could overboard with insulation to increase the insulation on the exterior walls

Hi We are just starting some major renovations on a bungalow we have just purchased, it will it extending up and to the side It is all timber joists and floorboards (apart from one room which is concrete) It will be heated by a oil fired combi boiler In early plans was to have wet UFH to heat downstairs but a couple of local plumbers who I've had round have been quite negative of it Obviously it is more expensive to install They also mentioned it doesn't heat the house as well as radiators, it costs more to run, have trouble with the valves Needs more space for the valves and also running costs of a thermal store So I was after some more professional opinions and opinions of people who have fitted them in their houses as we are in a bit of a quandary now Thanks

How would you do this? The cavity below the flooring is 600/700mm

Hi We have just bought a bungalow that we will be converting to a house/dormer bungalow, the ground floor is joisted and floorboard with a depth underneath of around 600/700mm We cannot decide if we want Wet UFH yet but my wife is concerned the tiles will be cold underfoot if we don't have it...in our old house we just had tiles direct onto concrete floor Whatever route we go down I think we should insulate under the floor while we are doing the project, my question is how would people do this? Rip all the old style floorboards up, screw pieces of 2 x 1 to the joists, slot in kingspan and then replace old floor boards or to me it makes more sense to use the 8 x 2ft new style floorboards. If we did this could we lay tiles direct onto the floorboards or would we need a further tile backer board? In peoples opinion would this help keep some warmth in the tiles so they aren't so cold underfoot Is there any other ways that this could be carried out and would achieve the same outcome? and is this worthwhile doing. All advice/info very much appreciated Many Thanks