richo106

Hi All In my renovation project I will be having a complete new concrete slab and the floor build up will be: 250mm Hardcore/Sand layer DPM 150mm Concrete 200mm PIR Insulation UFH Pipes 50mm Screed My question is whereabouts within this slab buildup is best to run services? This includes: Power to the kitchen island (going to put a duct in for it) Water supply (in new blue pipe) Happy to duct this also Another question would you expect to have A393 mesh in the 150mm concrete? All replies very much appreciated

Ducting sounds good to me, I have some lengths anyway which will be suitable. I will bury this in the hardcore. Will the builders seal the DPM around this duct? Am I ok to just bring it through the wall and concrete it in to seal it? Thanks again

House was built around 1960’s I will dig back and hopefully found it then. Would you run the new pipe under the new slab buried in the hardcore? (Floor make up: hardcore, 150mm slab, 200PIR and ufh/50mm screed with DPM’s etc) Do you protect it with anything? Just a hole in the wall then concrete round it? Many Thanks

Hi I currently have 15mm copper water pipe coming into the house and need to move it in a different room on the same side of the house (see pic. red is existing and blue is where I need it to be) I was going to excavate the pipe over the weekend to expose it and see exactly where it goes. what is the best way to joint this underground? Would people join it to blue water pipe incase I want to replace it all in the future? I want this to go underneath the new slab (currently excavated out ready for the new slab) what is the best way to bring it through the wall and under the slab? what options have I got? any advice/information greatly appreciated

Many thanks Marc All sorted

Thank you, I have googled it but not sure exactly what to use Could you recommend any tool to use to do this? Thanks again

I have just spoke to my SE and he is happy with a 300mm footing next the ‘cock up’ one. He said I will need to expose the side of the foundation (1m deep) and scabble it to expose the aggregate. do people think 300mm is wide enough for me to get in and get to it to expose it or would be better to do a 450mm bucket for excess?

I was thinking a strip of around 300mm, when you say depth over the footing…how much would be?

Correct, I have taken the roof off the existing bungalow and discovered the discrepancy

No I don’t want it to join offset, that bit I have moved on the drawing is how it is in real life. But as I will be adding another floor on top of it all, the outer walls need to line up. I am either explaining this terribly or I am being very daft

This is how the drawing should be though

Please see full ground floor plans

The builder said he is going to step out the bricks 15mm either way to create the 100mm cavity

70mm, that has currently got fluffy white insulation that has been blown in

Hi Mark It was a big thing that was overlooked but we are at the position in the build to correct this/decide a solution now I have attached a couple of pictures that show the arch drawing and then how it should be and with the foundations in position currently in red. The critical thing is matching up with the existing side wall as the extension will be double storey Hindsight is a wonderful thing as when measuring the other way we thought the measurements were but i went with the advice of the civils guys...to my annoyance I wish i followed this up earlier Hope this makes sense Top picture is what is like now, showing the foundations installed (600 wide) and also the nib of the garage that i have moved Bottom pic - arch drawing

The upstairs cavity is going to have 90mm PIR (Celotex thermaclass) So was looking at options of topping upstairs ground floor walls if required

It needs to tie in with the existing building as it will be a double storey extension and the side wall needs to line up. below is a photo of where the wall needs to be Can only see where the line of the wall needs to be now we have taken part of the existing garage down

I am adding a storey to my bungalow and the ground floor has blown cavity wall insulation, but after taking the roof off I think there is some patches that hasn’t be fully done. is there anything that I can add in the cavities while the roofs off? Many Thanks

Haha they are around 150mm out from being bang on I think

How would they overcome something like that though? That’s give me a little hope haha but would be very interested to see how they could do it Thanks

Hi I have been to my project this morning and just checking over a few things and after a thought I wanted to check my foundations. The foundations were doing between myself and civils guy but I now think they are about 6/8inch out as the architects drawings are slightly wrong and we used this as a reference point typically. what options do I have? Can I add another strip next to the footing? I know not ideal but this is the time to do it now any ideas/advice appreciated

Oh right I just presumed parge coat was like a thin plaster coat that had to be put on by plasterers. what is the mix people use for it? Or can you buy ready to mix stuff that I can apply with a brush? like this https://www.clayblock.ie/product/porotherm-parge-shop/ Seems a messy job but definitely doable by myself. thanks again

With our building work starting in couple of weeks there is just a couple of things to iron out and one being how to get as air tight as possible. My plan currently: Existing walls - brick, cement parge coat then another insulated backed PB or batten’d PIR, PB (not decide yet but need at least 50mm pir internally on existing walls New Walls - Fibolite blocks, parge coat, dot and dab ( no need to insulate as in cavity) I was thinking parge coat then I can fix cables and boxes direct to parge I know there is other options out there like proper gypsum based parge, airtight paint and then bond and plaster. I am electrician by trade but competent DIY’er and will be very hands on with the build. As everyone I am trying to find a good balance between cost and effectiveness. I would welcome some advice on what method works best/potentially cheapest as I can paint the paint etc Many Thanks

J_s - Thank you very much for your reply and detail it’s exactly what I was after. With my building starting in 2 weeks I will be spending some evening and weekends following him around. Im guessing blower proof paint will be cheaper and easier than getting my plasterers to parge coat Thanks again

I have CAT scanner that i borrowed through work. I couldn't get it to pick the power cable up even though I knew exactly where it was so I am a bit stumped