richo106

I will be mounting my UFH thermostat (Neostat v2) on the outside of my bathroom. I will be using a 3m heatmiser sensor probe and my plan was to: Chase out the wall (bathroom side) install the cable in oval conduit Router out around 15mm deep slot in my 22mm T&G floorboards for the cable and sensor to fit in (between loops) 6mm board will be over the top then tiled Is this the best way to do this? monitor temperature in my bathrooms? Many Thanks

Thank you

@crispy_wafer I don't blame you! I am now going to install coax cable to all my tvs too, going to use the combined data & aerial socket behind the TV's I'll just wire all the coax back to my network cab and least I can add a loft aerial easily if required

It might seem mad, but imagine how mad you would be if you needed another CAT6 and you didn't install one when it was easy to

This is another issue I am thinking about to, I wasn't planning on installing an aerial to be honest (as my 2 gable ends are vaulted ceilings so couldn't put aerial in loft like in my other house). My plan was to have sky glass with additional pucks for the other tvs

Hi All I am just starting my first fix, my house will be 250m2 (125 per floor) and mainly block inner wall construction. We can only get sky/bt broadband (60mb) via telegraph pole in our area. I am planning on installing 2 Ethernet ports in each bedroom, and behind the TVs in the kitchen and lounge. I will also be installing 6 x PoE cameras. My plan was to install a network cab with 24 patch panel and Poe network switch (any recommendations would be good) this cab will house the sky wi-fi router and bt master socket, I am running a cat 6 cable from where the cable comes to the house so they can connect onto that. Cab located in first floor cupboard My other concern is wi-fi coverage, I looked at the ubiquiti ap but was concerned about how they look dotted on the ceilings. Is there any other WiFi mesh/boosters available or are ubiquiti ceiling mount ap’s the best? Do these just plug into my network switch? any advice or ways to achieve what I want would be very much appreciated. I have attached my floor plans for info Many Thanks

Thank you! Daft question - how do I know what drain discharge I am configured for? My MVHR unit is sat on a board (with anti-vibration feet) so was planning on using the drain hole at the back as pictured. Can this have any horizontal pipe work? I was going to come out the back of the unit, set it down about 6inch and run this 'horizontal' for around 1.5m until an elbow straight down and then ill step it up to 32mm then HepVO and then into soil pipe. Please see attached dodgy drawing What did you use to step the pipe work up? Many Thanks

Good idea! I will most certainly do that Thanks again

Hi I have installed my 1st UFH pipes on fit from below pipes and due to the layout of house (and steel beams) the routes of my pipes were a little awkward I had to route them together in places to get back to my manifold. Please the images attached...are there any issues with grouping them like this? It is the Pert-Al-Pert pipe, i attempted to insulate some bits using standard pipe insulation but i can only get a few on due to the size. I have tried to keep them physically separated but in some cases i think they might be touching

Or is the norm to connect into the unit in 22mm then step it up to 32mm for the filter and then use 32mm back to my soil stack? Solvent weld or push fit? Many Thanks

I am studding out some old walls to make them nice and flat and add some insulation (75mm PIR to reach my 0.18 target) However now I’ve nearly done one wall I am thinking it might be better to use rockwool (omnifit) I have some left over 50mm + 70mm so I can use this to insulate between the studs. The gap from the wall to front of stud is about 130mm. Is there any issue in me using that or would PIR be better?

Hello all I have slightly above zero knowledge on even basic plumbing however I need to pipe up my MVHR condensate drain so it can be boxed in etc. I have a Vent Axia Sentinel and on the instructions it says it accepts a 22mm pipe (see attached) I know I need to install a HepVO trap and the smallest size they do is for 32mm pipe, is it just the case of installing 22mm pipe onto the unit then increasing the pipe size to 32mm for the trap and then carry the pipe on in 32mm into my soil stack? Or would you just use a reducer and expander of 22 to 32 just to install the HepVO trap? Is it best to use solvent weld or is push fit ok? Any advice or best ways to do this would be really helpful as I am not sure which way to go Many Thanks

That's great thank you again @Iceverge

Hi again I am starting to do some rooms ready for plaster boarding and somehow didn’t spot this last time on majority of my upstairs windows. There is nothing in my upstairs window cavity, just open to the loft etc would it just be a case of putting PIR in there and taping it up? I have attached a pic, so any advice appreciated as always

We are getting to that stage of my project when we are looking at the driveway, the issue with my drive it's mostly uphill before flattening out at the top The blue line is roughly the edge of my drive and red line end of rumble strip I have attached my a picture of the drive to try and show the slope but I think I will take some more later. I will be installing some porcelain slabs for nice steps up to my front I was planning on installing a decent sized rumble strip 3-4m ish maybe in block paving, can block paving be concreted in? I hate sunken block paving etc. And the rest in gravel, will I just lose the gravel down the drive or will the rumble strip hold it abit? Ive looked at the gravel grids but will the gravel just go off the top and then expose the grids? Any advice or any other information muchly appreciated on this topic, I like the look of resin but no way can my budget can even come close to stretching to that

Thank you everyone, I am going to read through the ASHP paperwork/installation guidance and work it out using that and the rubber feet I have. I will keep you posted

Thank you all I’ve been having a think, and decided to go with a concrete base as originally. It’s down the side of my house that’s out the way any. @crispy_wafer what is your build up? Hardcore? 100mm concrete? Wood shuttering?

Hi All I need to install an ASHP base and was planning on doing this out of concrete so it’s nice and solid. Also was going to make it 200mm wider and longer than the unit to give it 100mm overhang all round…is this enough? Or overkill? What would be a typical build up of a base for ASHP? (weight approx. 140kg) I have attached a picture of the side of my house and a badly drawn sketch of where it’s going. The red arrow indicates where my soil stack is going. The ASHP installer suggested an Aco drain at the back up against the house connected into the soil stack so all the waste water can run into that? Also I was planning on the base to be level with 1 brick down from top of blues? Any reasons why to make it up to blue level or does it not matter at all? Any advice/better ways to do it very welcome as always

I’ve replaced that loop now so can sleep easy now. one other question do to my layout and pipe runs there is a couple of sections where they run close together and some may even touch, I’ve read on BH that people lag/insulation them near the manifold? Can any one recommended any lagging to use? Need to be able to be added after and it’s just to ensure no pipes touch when going through a hole etc Thanks again

@Jenki @Nickfromwales my feeling exactly. Tomorrow it will be ripped out and replaced and not thought about again! Thanks again for your replies

Do I just bite the bullet and replace it!?

I haven’t got the equipment to pressure test and my plumber who I use is away for 2 weeks from yesterday 🙈

It’s literally bent at 90 degrees and slightly twisted, it’s right on a bend and I’ve tried to straighten it but as soon as I bend it again it kinks really bad in the same place.

I have started installing my UFH pipes and typically on my longest and most complicated run I put the worlds largest kink in it that I not happy with. It’s only 5m from the manifold I have read on here that people have repaired there UFH pipes with a straight coupler Would people take the whole loop out and replace it or replace a small section with a coupler? If so could you recommend any at all? Would plumbers merchants sell them? It’s for my first floor heating and is the fix from below method on spreader plates

Thank you @stoneguy for the reply and the recommendation of the brackets. I have had a look and seen the brackets are 10mm thick. Would you drill the back of the quartz using 12mm drill bit (or quartz equivalent) would you put any adhesive on the brackets or are the brackets enough with it? For information, what size is the upstand on the back wall? 450mm?