richo106

Hi All The mrs has decided to re-design our new kitchen to now include a floating shelf along the back wall of our kitchen above a quartz upstand. Please see attached images to show how we would like to be. My major concern is how to fix the quartz shelf to the wall, the wall in question will need to be battened for installation of internal insulation so I am confident I will be able to get good enough mechanical fixings to take the weight. My question is has any body got any ideas how to achieve this? Could I use the traditional floating shelves kind of brackets and drill/slot the back of the quartz so they slot over the brackets? I was thinking these brackets could be heavy duty angle brackets fixed to battens Other than this I am really struggling for ideas, I know its an odd question but any ideas/inspiration at all would be greatly appreciated I have spoken to the guy I have used for quartz worktop in the past who I will be using again and his reply is we will sort something which isn't a good enough answer for me at the minute haha

https://www.theunderfloorheatingcompany.co.uk/product/remote-probe/?utm_source=Google Shopping&utm_campaign=Google Shopping &utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=10427&gad=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8ZP9xdnU_wIVz-vtCh2UeQ0sEAQYAiABEgIMNvD_BwE I am guessing I will just need something like this…has anyone got any good suggestions apart from the wall to hide it? Many Thanks

Hi all My next stage of my project is my first floor wet underfloor heating. I am using fit from below aluminium spreader plates. I am planning the mount the thermostats for the bathrooms on the outside wall of the bathrooms. What probes can I buy that link (neostat v2) to my thermostats to monitor the temperature. The bathrooms will be completely tiled so where would I mount the probe? Can UFH pipes touch each other? I will need to take some pipes through block walls, can I just do a large hole for them all to go through? Do I need to seal it after? Is there a specific cable needed for my thermostats back to the wiring centre? Will 3 core and earth be ok? Live, neutral and Switch live? sorry for all the questions but I just want to be clear before I start. Many Thanks

Thank you very much for all the replies, I am going to put them on the inside as my joiner and most of you guys said. Thanks again

Hi All I have a bit of a dilemma if anyone could have any input on, I have a couple of double skin walls that needs internal doors fitting (100mm block, 100mm cavity, 100mm block) The architect has shown them on the outside skin, which i think will look the best but the joiner whos helping me with the doors that he normally hangs them on the inside so they can open fully Any ideas or thoughts would be much appreciated Many Thanks

Thanks great thank you @crispy_wafer I think I will just have to treat each different wall differently, I think it will be a mixture of everything to make it work Thanks again

Hi @Mike Yes I agree, I am going to take @Dave Jonesadvice/idea and install the mushroom vents. I just need to decide the best way to insulate it now? I have attached my buildup. I need to get my MVHR ducts and outlets in there, my outlets need to be at least 110mm below finished ceiling level I also need to bring it down around 75-80mm to work with my frontage of the house so it flows through nicely

I’m still going round in circles with this, my builders and a retired building inspector said as long as I leave an air gap above then that’s fine. I have my building inspector coming but still have no idea on how I am going to insulate this area🙈🙈

Sorry for the spam on this post, but I could install 50mm battens and then fill with Rockwool 50mm insulation. Then over board with the 40mm thermaline plus PB…would this work? I could wire and fix sockets (battened off) to (parged) wall and the install rockwool around it all

I meant to add, the existing walls are double brick skin with 70mm cavity that has EPS (polypearl) blown insulation

Ok thank you regarding the polystyrene and cables i haven’t got any building regs drawings as it is classed as an extension. I would like to add 70mm of PIR on the external existing walls. Some walls I am going to bite the bullet and buy the PIR backed PB but 2 walls I need to batten. I was tempted to use warm wall method but not sure how plumb it would all be as they are existing wall

I’ve got my building inspector meeting me there on Monday so wanted to go through my insulation etc with him to make sure he was happy

Hi All I have a run of kitchen units and quartz shelf (question for another day) running along an external wall My plan currently is to parge the wall, 75mm battens with 50mm PIR between (so this will allow to run cables either in front or behind. Then overboard with Gyrproc Thermaline plus 40mm (30.5mm polystyrene + 9.5mm board, i have these left over from another job so thought a good place to use them. Are 600mm centres OK with this? Rather than battening would you make a frame so its nice and plumb. Would 50mm PIR be the best way to go? Literally any other ideas or ways to do I would love to hear! Many Thanks

Thank you @crispy_wafer Good idea regarding the foam and then paint...that is the way I am going to go now as I have both on site currently Yes I will not be parging internal walls but will seal the floor to wall junction as you mentioned Much appreciated

Could anyone assist at all on the my questions above? Many Thanks

Hi again, after starting to trim back the edging it leaves me a few other questions if anyone could help with them: how far do I ask the plasterers to parge down to on both the ground floor and first floor? some of gaps range quite drastically, would it just be the case of some will need some wide airtight tape sealed to new slab and walls? all of my internal walls downstairs are made of block do all the internal walls need sealing to the new slab also?

Hi Joth It is not a new build, it is a bungalow conversion Many Thanks

Yeh pretty much knock down and rebuild so will have the same address

Yes parge then dot and dab so around 30mm a half the walls and then other half will be insulated PB or battens with PIR and PB

Does anybody know if I contacted BT out of a contract they would help/advise me on this? I am tempted just to go with this and hope it’s OK

Sorry just to confirm. I’ll trim everything down flush with the floor level then Parge coat and then air tight seal with tape and/or air tight paint (I’ve got aerosana visconn) Many Thanks

Thank you, I am guessing I still need to cut everything level to the floor though yes?

Hi all My 50mm screed (over insulation, ufh pipes and slab) has now been poured. Round the external edges there is 25m PIR, 10mm foam and DPM sticking up around 100mm. With the internal walls just having the foam and DPM. how do I finish this? I am having my external walls parged Friday so want to make it’s ready for them. I am also about air tightness too as I’ve read on here about it could be a cause of leaks, so I’ve bought some airtight paint to seal all round the edge. is it as simple as cutting it all flush and then air tight painting it? Sealing it to the slab and blockwork before parging? many thanks

Hi All My phoneline was knocked off my old bungalow by a delivery, I coiled it up and left it next the pole...however this coil has now disappeared. I have no phone/broadband contract etc at the minute and won't have for a while, my plan was to install a weatherproof box on the corner of the house where i want it be attached again, I was planning on running a cat 6 to where i want the main phone port/router to be located from the outdoor box. Would BT be happy connection on to my external junction box? I want to do this so I can get my house first fixed and then boarded etc...does this sound OK? I have never dealt with BT for anything like this before

Thank you @Thorfun