richo106

It appeared through old concrete kitchen floor, I have now moved it on to the outside on the property so can be used by the builders etc I have traced it back 2 feet from the house and still in copper. I don't know if its worth tracing a bit more back (25m back to the stop valve) or just try and find it at the land boundary and excavate a new trench for some new mdpe Can I lay mdpe directly in a trench or is best to cover in sand etc? Many Thanks

Thank you @ProDave I will do some investigating Thanks again

Hi all I need to increase the water pipe size that goes into my property, currently there is a 15mm copper pipe into my house My plan is to excavate back to the main water valve which is located in the pavement, I have attached a couple of photos of the stop valve (not the best photos) and my plumber seems to think it looks quite new-ish and they might of replaced a small section onto my land so I could join onto that. Is there anyway of finding this out through Severn Trent at all? What is the likely material of the pipe coming off the valve? And what is the best way off trying to locate the pipe just on my property? Should I be able to tell which way the pipe leaves the valve? And if i need to dig up the pavement to get onto the valve, do i need to contact the local council or anything? Any advice or any information would be much appreciated Many Thanks

When I exposed the footings on our bungalow so we could check if can add another storey without underpinning. They were 6 to 9 bricks below the blues but the actually concrete footing was only 8” deep and 600mm and this was suitable for a full other storey. I was even that sceptical I paid another SE to run the calculations as well for me

Also when is it best to install the door liners? I am guessing this is after the floor is tiled? Many Thanks

Hi All We are planning on having fully tiled bathrooms and was just wondering how do people finish the tiles upto the door frames/architrave? The door liner will be around 150mm wide - 100mm block + dot and dab both sides Do you generally have architraves in bathrooms? Do you have door liner 'wider' the bathroom side so the tiles can go upto the liner flush and architrave over the top? Or just finish the tiles in line with the door liner with a trim? Any ideas/photos/methods on this would be greatly appreciated Many Thanks

I have bought Contega Solido SL Tape (80mm) with the tescon sprimer to seal to the block work

Yes the PIR wasn’t too bad when I got going with it. Is it best to air tight tape the PIR to the block work and wall plate or is it not needed?

Hi all I have made a start on my vaulted ceilings. I now have 100mm PIR in between the rafters and 100mm PIR underneath. I have taped all my PIR joints with foil tape, I have foamed the edges of the boards and plan to air tight it to wall plate and block wall. Will this be sufficient for air tightness or is it best to put a vcl over my battens and them tape that the wall instead? My plan was to just use a VCL strip down the middle bit

Currently they have quoted for a thermostat in most of the rooms, 13 in total. Is there anything specific needed for building regs?

Hi all I am getting to the stage in my build where I am considering thermostat locations/control I am aiming for air tightness of 3, having MVHR installed, ASHP, UFH ground floor in screed, UFH first floor using spreader plate. Insulation level are 0.18 walls and 0.12 floor and ceilings I am happy with the layout for the UFH (attached) but my question is that is it necessary for each room to have its own thermostat? Or would it be ok to have 1 thermostat per floor? And where would these be located? I have never had ASHP or UFH, is it best just to leave the thermostats set at say 20 degrees and not touch then? All information appreciated

I tried to explain to him and shown him some examples, his concern was how does he know a 50mm air gap was maintained throughout? And he has never signed a vaulted ceiling off that didn't use PIR between the rafters I decided this wasn't a battle worth pursuing and it would only take me a day to correct so thought best to keep him on side as he will be looking after my project to the end now

I have just had a meeting with my BC officer (a new one for my job) and he is not happy with the slab insulation between the rafters no matter how I much i tried to put my case across. To keep everyone happy I am now installing 100mm between the rafters and 100mm underneath (I have already cut some 100mm so cheaper to do it this way) When I fit in them between the rafters do I have to foam and tape over the joints or just foam and tape over the 'top' (under the rafter) layer? Slightly annoyed about this as I spent all Sunday doing one room but he was not having it and not worth the argument this time Many Thanks

Thank you

Does this stick to block work or do I need primer?

The finish is going to be boarded

Hi @Iceverge I am just referring back to this post as I am getting to the point now. What is the best way to fix it to the underside of the joists? Staple and then tape over them? Do you tape each joint air tight tape? Any recommendations? Do I also tape the the end to the block wall also? Just looking at air tight tape…not cheap is it Any advice/information greatly appreciated

My thoughts exactly

I have made a start today on my vaulted ceilings and was just having a browse on the internet. The roofer has used rubershield pro on my roof https://www.ikogroup.co.uk/product/iko-rubershield-pro/ As this is a permeable membrane do I still need to leave a 50mm air gap? Or have a misunderstood this? Kind Regards

I have pushed my PIR tight up to my block work when laying the PIR over the rafters. Would people recommend using airtight tape from the PIR to the blocks to make a perfect seal? If so, what tape would you recommend? Many Thanks

I decided to go for it and place the order Thursday and it’s all being delivered on Monday. I am more than happy to send some photos of some components if you would like me to, this is the first time I’ve ever dealt with UFH so I wouldn’t be able to comment too much on quality as had nothing to compare it too

One issue I have come across is the Isover APR insulation is that it is pre cut at 600 but my joist centres are 400. would it be better to use standard loft insulation (isover space saver) that is perforated at 400mm? I know the acoustic performance won’t be as good but will it more suitable to install?

I have just found this option from @Nickfromwalesand this sounds exactly how I want to do it.

One option I thought was to install my UFH spreader plates and then push up 100mm Isover APR insulation up to it https://insulation-uk.com/products/isover-acoustic-partition-roll-apr-1200 Then install my MVHR ducting and cabling/pipes etc...

Hi All As you have probably noticed from my other posts I am sorting my quantity and type of insulation required. I want to insulate between ground and first floor I have 225mm posi joists, there will be UFH spreader plates (installed from below) MVHR ducting and all other services (cabling, pipes etc..) What is the best insulation between floors? and guessing I would install all services and then push the insulation in around everthing? Many Thanks